88 2.9 only idles after running awhile.

[workn2hard]

Well, inherited a 88 2 wdr extended cab, 2.9 v6 Ranger. Some family members, my beloved wife let use, drove it until it wouldn’t go anymore and left on our property. Now, it’s mine.
Great web site.
I stumbled around here, gleaning info and got it running with changing the tfi module (would run then shut down, restart later). Then (~1 month) it started to shut down again (restart after couple of hours). Determined it was the HP fuel pump, replaced it and ran like a top (~2 days).
I drove around town and parked it, when I returned to take off, it started but only idled, it wouldn’t speed up when the accelerator was pressed. Next day it started up and responded to movement of the accelerator. I haven’t driven it yet; I want to have enough time to get back home and get to work if it should break down again.
I’ll check codes tomorrow, but now my wife is asking if we should just get rid of it.
I don’t know much about these vehicles.
I have tinkered with other vehicles and have a F-250 ’79 (460) that I really enjoy, this means I don’t mind working on things. Especially, if it’ll pay for itself (no car payments) in the long run.
Are these vehicles worth while keeping?
I’ll get back with some codes, if any.
Thanks for letting me blabber on, and to those who built this site. Great Job!
Jim

 

[turboranger2.3]

get codes. write them down.

erase codes. disconnect bat.

run again and around the block and get codes again , down write codes.

first and second sets of codes, separate.

and post.

 

[jhammel85]

I'd say it's worth keeping! Especially if its still in overall good shape...

Sounds to me like alot of maintenance needs to be done. Do you know when the cap, rotor, wires and plugs were done? How is the spark from the coil? Have you checked fuel pressure?

 

[CountryBoy704]

you probably have gunk in your gas tank and it pugged up your new filter again, pull that new filter and see if it looks gummed up, if so you need to drop the tank and clean it, or pull an injector and see if it sprays when you crank

 

[workn2hard]

Thanks for additional info:
turboranger2.3
jhammel85
CountryBoy704.
Had an emerg. at my daughters house that took precedence over my day. I'll get those codes tomorrow.
Thanks again.

 

[adsm08]

Gimme a day to play with wire diagrams, but this sounds like an issue in the throttle position sensor circuit.

I'll find the pinout at the PCM and get back to you on the test I want you to do.

In the mean time you can check the sensor itself. Take it off, unplug it, and hook an ohm meter to the center terminal and one of the outside terminals. Then sweep the sensor's center piece slowly and watch for dead spots. Then move to the other outer terminals and do it again. If you get any dead spots, you need a new sensor.

 

[workn2hard]

adsm08
Thanks I'll try and get to it tomorrow.
Then gas water heater, at my daughter’s house has taken my time.
I purchase an analog multi meter, all I had was digital. Life keeps dragging me along but I'll get to this.
Thanks all, for your input and patience.
Jim

 

[adsm08]

I used a digital to find the dead spot in my old TPS. It's doable, they are just easier to find with an analog meter. You have to go very slowly and have a steady hand to find it with a digital meter.

 

[workn2hard]

adsm08;
I found this on this web site, "Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Operation & Test Submitted By: creepinjeepster "
Is this something close to what you're taking about?
Jim

 

[adsm08]

That would be exactly what I'm talking about.

The only difference is that ultimately I don't think it's your sensor, I think its a bad wire, so I need to look up the pins and the PCM and then have you run the test with your meter hooked up at the PCM connector, not right to the sensor itself.

 

[--weezl--]

if i remember correctly, on my 89 mustang it was the black wire? to ground, you check the voltage, you are looking for .98v they should be pretty close

 

[workn2hard]

get codes. write them down.

erase codes. disconnect bat.

run again and around the block and get codes again , down write codes.

first and second sets of codes, separate.

and post.

Turborange 2.3 here's the codes.

IAW Haynes, 3 stages:
1st: 21, 24
2nd: 11, There seems to be an extra single stroke when this sequence was happening. I mean, the 1st set, then the repeat and finally a single. Don't know if this means anything.
3rd: 21, 18, 74

Disconnected bat and drove around the block and got these:
1st: nothing
2nd: 11
3rd: 21, 18, 74.


Jim

 

[turboranger2.3]

cool.

21 hard fault code (ECT) eng. coolant out. range

24 ACT air charge temp.

18 IDM
74 you f--k up the test (BOO) brake on of . dont worry right now


ONE at a time code 21 first

Odds are . Ect sensor.or wiring conn. wiggle it see what happens


At ECT jump , jump ECT signal and signal return . 2 pins jump them . theres only 2

induce opposite code

Retest , did you get code 51


21 open ECT ---51 closed ECT , follow..the sensor is open or closed

The ecm can tell .

If we get both codes . ECM and wiring is good.

REPLACE ECT-- child play. It so easy!!! . flow charts lead you and tell you.


there are other paramiters. explain later


AT 70F 40.000 omhs , 180F 3600ohms at ECT.


go play. and get back.

 

[--weezl--]

if i remember correctly, 11 is the absence of a code, it's more or less saying nothing is there... the single flash/beep is a separator flash, it's longer in duration than the others, and there specifically to tell you that you are going on to a different set of codes

 

[workn2hard]

if i remember correctly, 11 is the absence of a code, it's more or less saying nothing is there... the single flash/beep is a separator flash, it's longer in duration than the others, and there specifically to tell you that you are going on to a different set of codes

Thanks --weezl--.