88 2.9 only idles after running awhile.

[turboranger2.3]

10 - separator code

11 - clear codes

 

[workn2hard]

I jumper the cst connection and ended up with
the code 61.
I'm in the process of moving too, so please be patient.....
Jim

 

[turboranger2.3]

If you jumped ECT sensor. generated 51 or 61


You did good, replace ECT. See how you generate the opposite code .

Confirms. wiring good
conn. good
ECM good
That was soooooooooooooo easy.

For curiosity. re-test . middle flash is the separator . and let see if it was 51, I think
it was 51. and you counted wrong. but for me either code works.

Never be shy to re-test. Very important , to get accurate info.

If not, ball buster.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Since your problem is so erratic my bet it is a wiring issue. Inspect/clean with elect cleaner all of the connectors under the hood and put them together with dielectric grease. Look for any cracked burnt wires fix any that are bare or broken. The first set of codes hard faults the second are memory. code 11 is a pass what you are looking for is a 11-1-11 the 1 is the separator. Always bring the engine up to temp before running codes. Before you start the engine activate the KOEO test turn the tester on and then turn the key on when it starts giving you codes turn the tester off. That will erase the memory then turn the key off and disconnect the battery 1/2 an hour to reset the computer. Start the engine and run it at medium speeds for about 20 minutes to get the engine up to temp. Turn it off and run the KOEO codes turn the tester on then turn the key on and write down the codes dont touch the throttle or brake during this test. turn the tester and key off then run the KOER test. Start the eingine and run it at least 2 minutes at 2000 rpm turn the key off and turn the tester on start the engine you will get a cylinder code of three indicating number of cylinders two cyls per number then a single 1 for dynamic response push the pedal all the way down to WOT for a couple seconds and hit the brakes then write down the codes as they are transmitted. You will get the codes twice for each section with the 1 as the separator for hard faults and memory. I put a fresh battery in my tester and have the beeper on so I dont miss the codes as i am writing them down. Do the wiggle test to look for intermittent faults with the engine and tester off turn the key on and activate the test for ten seconds deactivate then activate the test then wiggle tap on all the sensors connectors under the hood when a fault is found the tester will beep and will be stored in the memory. Always fix the codes with the smallest number first and erase the memory and reset the computer to confirm the repair. You have to reset the computer every time you clean/change a sensor so the computer can set the new values for performance and it can take a couple complete warm up cycles for it to do that if you dont it will run on old values decreasing performance. Give it a good tune up wires plugs cap rotor and run some seafoam through it to clean the cylinders/valves, change the oil and pcv and filters fuel oil and air. A little TLC goes a long way with a neglected motor.

 

[feellnfroggy]

Remember that when applying dielectric grease teh conductbility is limited. You want a good consistent coat, but not to heavy or it will work against you.

 

[workn2hard]

turboranger2.3;
Ok, I'll retest, replace the ECT and retest.

Kimcrwbr1;
Thanks for the good info.
I'll check the connections.
What tester are you talking about? (turning off/on)
I'm using an analog multimeter, so there isn’t an on/off switch. I guess, I'll just disconnect/connect, unless you're talking about a specific unit.

feellnfroggy.
Thanks for the tip. I'll use just enough to prevent oxidation.
Jim

 

[turboranger2.3]

kimcrwbr1, lots of good points, BUT.. ford does not have volitile memory.

Meaning it does not loose its memory. erases after 40 starts

To re-set memory faster ,touch bat. negative to pos. with one terminal of battery diconnected. folow. ? It discharges the capacitores , instantly.


ITS not the smallest code, it the first of the string of code. follow, and allway hard fault first , KOEO THEN , KOER , THEN MEMORY . .

Adaptive learning stratergies. takes the average reading of a sensor and uses it.
to compensate for irregularites. follow

Just by driving it , it will re-learn on its own.



Just takes longer.5-10 min. it could run like crap at first. but it will go away

MANY PEOPLE HAVE HAD THERE BALLS BUSTED BECAUSE THEY DID THINK THERE REPAIRED THE RIGHT SENSOR. THE COMPUTOR HAD NOT RE-LEARNED YET.

Remember ford trained monkey.talking. ASK ANY QUESTIONS.

 

[workn2hard]

Just letting you know I'm still tinkering with it.
Jim

 

[kimcrwbr1]

kimcrwbr1, lots of good points, BUT.. ford does not have volitile memory.

Meaning it does not loose its memory. erases after 40 starts

To re-set memory faster ,touch bat. negative to pos. with one terminal of battery diconnected. folow. ? It discharges the capacitores , instantly.


ITS not the smallest code, it the first of the string of code. follow, and allway hard fault first , KOEO THEN , KOER , THEN MEMORY . .

Adaptive learning stratergies. takes the average reading of a sensor and uses it.
to compensate for irregularites. follow

Just by driving it , it will re-learn on its own.



Just takes longer.5-10 min. it could run like crap at first. but it will go away

MANY PEOPLE HAVE HAD THERE BALLS BUSTED BECAUSE THEY DID THINK THERE REPAIRED THE RIGHT SENSOR. THE COMPUTOR HAD NOT RE-LEARNED YET.

Remember ford trained monkey.talking. ASK ANY QUESTIONS.

Actually you can erase the memory on all EEC-IV ford computers. Do the KOEO test and when the computer starts spitting out codes disconnect the light /meter or put the tester on hold and leave the key on the computer will clear the memory. I did it many times then disconnect the battery and you start with a fresh slate. The first set of codes are the ones you fix first. One sensor can throw multiple codes that is why you fix the smallest number first and clear the memory and reset the computer then retest after at least one complete warmup cycle to confirm your repair. At least that is the way my book says to do it. Always make sure the engine is up to temp and the oxygen sensor is good and hot before you do either test and fix them in the order you receive them.

 

[workn2hard]

Hi, finally got back to this truck.
I've replaced the cooling water sensor. After refilling the cooling water system, I needed to get a battery.
The following morning I notice the ground was damp and checking the fluid level (low) I notice the drain plug was dripping. Remove the drain plug and notice alot of sediment, which cause the plug not sealing. I got the plug installed after cleaning the opening (probably have to flush the entire system). I've tried to get a battery (3 times) for this pickup. None of the them fit. The tray is larger than the batteries that Napa lists, aren't they suppose to fit the tray tight enough to keep the battery from sliding around?
I'm still working on it.
Jim

 

[n_grimm]

My battery is shorter than tray but the hold down keeps it clamped down just fine. You could probably paint some wood strips and put them around the bottom edge but don't know if it's really necessary as long as it's tightened down well.

 

[--weezl--]

the battery, measuring across the battery, the short ways, should be about 1-1.5 inches wider than the battery...

if you don't have the clamp still, a fender washer and bolt work quite well, that's what i've got on my mustang

 

[workn2hard]

Ok, had to accept a battery that smaller than tray.
got the critter running, put ~50 miles on it, without any problems.
I'll check the codes tomorrow.
Jim

 

[workn2hard]

codes

Here are the codes I have gotten;
11
11
18
74
I also have noticed that I don't any light working in the dash, I'll be checking the fuse block.
Jim

 

[kimcrwbr1]

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/2digitcodes.html

11-1-11 My guess is your allright the way it is I would look at the guage cluster connector for corrosion I believe your park lights and dash lights are on the same circuit if the park lights work then it is likely a wiring or guage cluster ussue. code 18 in my book says a timing/tach issue and in the tech library says you touched the brake after it sent the cylinder code. Did you try turning the headlight knob it could be the dimmer for the dash lights also