87 single cab SAS build

[Mightyfordranger]

This is prolly a dumb question but what is a fead never heard that one before and thank u that took alot of time to make. And yes it is quite close I think I'll have to cut out the whole core support in the front and start building from there :\ dam.... I'll nose around in the parts section of the classifieds here and find a set that fits cause that sh*t is expensive

 

[bobbywalter]

front engine accessory drive

 

[bobbywalter]

or forward eng acc drive...

some drive fore and aft

 

[Mightyfordranger]

Oh ok I learned something then thanks I'll look around for that too

 

[Mightyfordranger]

Also since I cant use this rad, shroud and fan anyone want to pick it up off me for a 2.3t or something of that nature???

 

[Josh40601]

My 2 cents... Radiator is not the issue. You either have air in the system still, or a crack somewhere (possible HG)

You need to add an overflow tank ASAP, then run it again. the OF tank will allow all the air to escape the system, while keeping the fluid in a circuit.

After that, NAPA has a kit to pressurize the system to see if there is a leak. I HIGHLY recommend doing this before dumping more money on another setup.

Bobby, do you agree?

 

[Mightyfordranger]

Well compared to most other folks on here it seems my rad is too small doesn't mean it is for sure. I do have the stock over flow on it right now also I put a brand new 13lb cap on it and a 180 thermostat and let it go up to bout 210 which seems to be operating temperature from what I have read and it blew the lower rad house before it pushed anything in to the over flow
Another thing I just thought of with my hei dis it may cause it to run hotter as well and maybe my timing is too advanced I'll get a light on it and check that and everytime I drain the antifreeze
It comes out tan so I'll flush it out and have a couple other things to try as well I'll look for that pressure tester josh spoke of too

 

[bobbywalter]

My 2 cents... Radiator is not the issue. You either have air in the system still, or a crack somewhere (possible HG)

You need to add an overflow tank ASAP, then run it again. the OF tank will allow all the air to escape the system, while keeping the fluid in a circuit.

After that, NAPA has a kit to pressurize the system to see if there is a leak. I HIGHLY recommend doing this before dumping more money on another setup.

Bobby, do you agree?

classically for sure...but this points to me that i am fawking up as i ass-u-med he had done a glove test, and was damn sure he had the proper rotation water pump and that the correct head gaskets were installed in the correct orientation.
but it seemed a fair assumption with a basic teardown...

Well compared to most other folks on here it seems my rad is too small doesn't mean it is for sure. I do have the stock over flow on it right now also I put a brand new 13lb cap on it and a 180 thermostat and let it go up to bout 210 which seems to be operating temperature from what I have read and it blew the lower rad house before it pushed anything in to the over flow
Another thing I just thought of with my hei dis it may cause it to run hotter as well and maybe my timing is too advanced I'll get a light on it and check that and everytime I drain the antifreeze
It comes out tan so I'll flush it out and have a couple other things to try as well I'll look for that pressure tester josh spoke of too

blew off the lower radiator hose before pushing through a 13 psi cap????

yousure your pump is correct...a 22x19 fan should cool it adequately with medium load.

 

[Mightyfordranger]

Didn't blow it off just ripped it in one spot and started leaking and sprayed the fan decent enough to wing antifreeze in my engine bay and no I can't accurately say whether or not the head gaskets were installed in the correct orientation so as to not cover the hole I didn't build the engine for all I know it may never have been torn down and yes it was 13 lb cap and it showed no other signs of distress just a quick little pop \hiss sound and started leaking also its a new water pump from the local auto parts store its weird it'll cool down if I drive it around just at a stand still it'll climb and while driving you can actually watch the temp drop

 

[bobbywalter]

i must have you mixed up with someone else...i was sure you had the heads off recently.

 

[Josh40601]

Bobby, is 210 operating temp for a 302? The 4.0 is between 190 and 210, but not familiar enough with the 5L.

Josh, throw a new lower hose on it, do the pressure test, see if you have leaks. Forgive me, but are you running a new clutch fan?

 

[Mightyfordranger]

Ok I will and no clutch just fan it was hard enough to get the fan in there alone I tried just fitting a 2in fan spacer by itself and it wouldn't make it :\ but the fan is brand new

 

[Josh40601]

Ok I will and no clutch just fan it was hard enough to get the fan in there alone I tried just fitting a 2in fan spacer by itself and it wouldn't make it :\ but the fan is brand new

ok. Post up the results of your test.



and instead of buying a new radiator, my suggestion is to go to a JY and rob a v8 Expo of it's front accessory drive system. Not only will it get you to a Serpentine system, it has a better alternator, crappier power steering pump, so keep yours, just use the new bracket, and will provide a bigger fan with a clutch.

Sell your stuff on CL to somebody building a fox body or bronco or something.

 

[Mightyfordranger]

Ok I may just snag its radiator too right now it's got an alternator out of idk what and I use a 70s Ford pump with what ever I could use to make it work cause the old ranger one was complete crap set up like with zip ties and bullshit from the last guy

 

[Josh40601]

Expo v8 radiators are HUGE. and they don't really flow that well.

Here is my truck with an expo radiator. It goes from the top of the radiator support to about 2" below the frame rails