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87 single cab SAS build


I might make my 2wd dd a 4wd d30 and a tcase out of a sami

You might want to rethink the Sami t-case. They're small for a reason The Samurai had all of 60 hp so it didn't need large input or output shafts or big bearings. The case had a 2.2 low range and while there are aftermarket parts for these things you would probably be money ahead by starting with something stronger in the first place.
Finding a Ranger / Exploder trans & transfer case can't be that hard where you live and would make that part of the swap a lot simpler. You'll destroy that Dana 30 long before the M5OD-R1 & 1350 or 1354.
 
You might want to rethink the Sami t-case. They're small for a reason The Samurai had all of 60 hp so it didn't need large input or output shafts or big bearings. The case had a 2.2 low range and while there are aftermarket parts for these things you would probably be money ahead by starting with something stronger in the first place.
Finding a Ranger / Exploder trans & transfer case can't be that hard where you live and would make that part of the swap a lot simpler. You'll destroy that Dana 30 long before the M5OD-R1 & 1350 or 1354.

It was just an idea anyway im only runnin a 2.5 but still I see where ur goin I wanted to keep my 2.5 and run the divorced tcase but there's rangers everywhere out here I'm sure I could find one when I go to do if i even will and hows the new 94?? I haven't read ur thread in awhile been busy
 
Just bought the left upper control arm for the 97 Exploder. Its the priority at the moment. The 94 truck I wanted to replace the 93 with didn't work out.
The 93 needs a rethink. I see guys like Josh40601's build and want to change everything about it. I did it wrong starting with a really worn out 2wd anyway.
That said, I'm not sure I want to give up on it yet.

The 2.5 is great for a dd / occasional wheeler but even that size engine would tear up the Sami t-case. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/suzuki/908483-strength-sj410-transfer-case.html

Check out this mild 2.3 Ranger build: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=181043 (9 years in the making. and still loves it.)
 
Thanks for the links this is the first forum I have ever took part in and from day one I wish I had done it alot sooner its people like these found here at trs that really inspire and have knowledge to back it...anyways back to it sold my old spare 70s short bed so got some more ranger moneys I'll look at my finances and see what I can do for the extended radius arms from James Duff still not sure on what direction I'm goin with steering build it or buy deff hiem joints though a dom tube
 
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:mad::mad::mad:Not much to update lately guys I have the truck at a friends shop to do the oil pump and radiator while I was gathering parts and money for the sas but its been a month and he's done nothing with it so I'm goin to see if I can get it back this weekend and make some progress!!!
 
While I'm on here does anyone know where I can get my hands on a set of door hinges for a first gen truck
 
stay out of my hinge pile :thefinger: what did you do rip a hinge in half? just drill em out and rebuild em if they are just beat. i usually just go to removable pins so swapping summer to winter doors is easy...and this of course requires extra hinge bodies for the door sides.



oil pump? man if it needs an oil pump i would be a bit concerned.


a d30 and sami t case combo would not scare me if i had the shit laying around. though a regular rbv t case setup is preferred for the most part.

the 2.3 is a venerable engine for a reg cab truck with sane size tires. especially with a power adder in the scenario.
 
I never thought of that and yes they are wasted and pi$$ me off alot also yeah only carryin like 20 psi of Oil pressure I didn't do the swap so idk much bout motor but after it runs for about 15 min it drops from 35 to 20 and I don't have a replacement long block on a stand for it yet dam right I'm concerned :( but it is on the list and I see how it is can't share the hinge pile:thefinger:
 
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well....depending on pump they can lay down when warm if the bypass is weak.....usually worn bearings are the cause though.

a quick check of a main or two and a rod with the plastigauge can help there.
 
I think 20 psi on a warmed up old 302 is fine. I was running my Bronco (Full size) with a 302 and it had 0 to 1 psi hot idling. I drove it like that for 6 months and 3k miles until I swapped in a newer 302. Which that one has 20 psi warm.
 
I agree...20PSI isn't all that bad for a 100K+ 302. If it was 10-15PSI above 2000RPM Id be worried.
 
hell...if its a 302 5psi at idle is fine....


i dont think i would fawk with anything that had 20.

i assumed it was a 2.9
 
BTW this was my Bronco running...
20140712_123308_zps2f9643f8.jpg
 
Yeah It is a 302 sometimes it's nothing gauge won't barely read looks like hagans pic there but i t also ran hot like 195 * had to small of a radiator hence my fancy dual core after I get the new rad in it I'll try and time it out and get readings at different temps and time and post those too
 
Is this on an aftermarket gauge?
 

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