86+ D60 w/ Leafs.

[Burnside]

I have been tossing around different ideas for front suspension setups.

So I've that the explorer rear leafs are the hot ticket for the front of an RBV.

If I go this route it will, with no intention, be the ultimate budget build.

One conflict I potentially see with that setup is the spring perches that exist on my dana 60 are 3" wide. Explorer leafs are 2.5" wide.

Would this be an issue? Having a 2.5" wide leaf on a 3" pad? If so how can if be corrected? Would something need thought up to take up the gap between the spring pack and u-bolts? Could I notch the casting with a grinder to move the u-bolts closer? What are my options? Or is this even an issue?

-Cheers, Josh.

 

[wohlf 16]

You are gonna have to relocate the perches on the dana 60 to fit your ranger anyways. When you do that weld on 2.5 inch wide perches. As for the explorer springs up front I have no idea about using those. I would think they would be really long. Ive got a set of 6ich superlift springs for an 87 or older chevy. Only 46 inches long i think. They are really stiff but they also have like 5 springs in the pack. Good luck and keep researching before you start choppin.

 

[Toreadorranger]

You are gonna have to relocate the perches on the dana 60 to fit your ranger anyways. When you do that weld on 2.5 inch wide perches. As for the explorer springs up front I have no idea about using those. I would think they would be really long. Ive got a set of 6ich superlift springs for an 87 or older chevy. Only 46 inches long i think. They are really stiff but they also have like 5 springs in the pack. Good luck and keep researching before you start choppin.

The driverside perch is built into the pumpkin housing, so that you wouldnt be replacing.

 

[1slow5oh]

The stock rear ranger springs are really flexable, but there is not much arch to them.
You also have to think that your putting them in the front of the vehicle where there is more weight=less lift.....not that your worried about lift but a spring will only flex so far backwards....

I think ive seen your ranger in action at the backfield bogs....

 

[Burnside]

Yea you've seen me at the back field bog, the chop top bII with a snorkel etc. Nice to meet you, my name is Josh? you and your rig are?

I plan on outboarding the springs, and from what i've read/meausred. If i use the outboard springs hangers from the rear of an rbv to mount the rear of the front leafs, and then hang the front of the leaf off a bumper/some other outboard method, you can simply use the perches that come on the d60.

I know cheapthrill had a buddy with a ranger that did this same setup but I have never seen pics.

 

[JohnnyU]

Leaves?



I liked the idea of airshocks.

 

[CheapThrillB2]

http://therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54791

 

[CheapThrillB2]

the truck never really got "completed" and is actually looking at being sold off tonite lol.

 

[Burnside]

Leaves?



I liked the idea of airshocks.

Me too but the options need to be weighed. But what exactly is so bad with leafs? Yes it is old technology, and isn't as "trick" as other suspensions. Air shocks are neat but I don't like the idea my suspension required not to leak; and to be charged in order to not collapse on itself. Also with the harsh enviroment my suspension will be subject to, no matter how robust, all seals will eventually fail when introduced to the sand and mud. The simplicity and ruggedness of leafs is attractive along with the fact it will cost 1/4 of the price of setting up a coil front end. Yes the leafs could hinder turn radius and approach angle. With 42" tires I think I will be able to live with my approach angle even with leaf springs. Turn radius may be affected, but then again its not very healthy for axles to be at full lock.

Between cost, simplicity, and performance, it just makes sense. As it's only a hobby I already spend too much time money on it. I do not feel like a proper leaf setup would be half assing it.

CheapThrill: I have poured over that thread many times. I love NMB2's rig. Also the success you've had in the past with leafs is very impressive. In the linked above thread I think you mentioned using rear leaf hangers from an RBV for the rear of the front leafs- I don't see that in that picture. I have thought about the modified radius arm setup you ended up with. I do not have d44 arms readily available but I do have leafs. And with the 86+ d60 it seems much more simple to setup leafs. From watching your builds it does not seem like you had any issues with the leafs.

P.S. I would love to see some pictures of what Todd ended up with as it sounds like he did the same setup I'm talking about. Looks like people pissed him off and he has abandoned TRS, won't answer PM's and took down all his pics.

 

[4x4junkie]

P.S. I would love to see some pictures of what Todd ended up with as it sounds like he did the same setup I'm talking about. Looks like people pissed him off and he has abandoned TRS, won't answer PM's and took down all his pics.

Doesn't look like he's completely abandoned this place yet, his profile shows last active yesterday.


IIRC, I think he used wider late-model F-150 rear leafs and outboarded them to use the stock perches on the axle (they were full 3" wide leafs IIRC). He also used a later ('04?) D60, not sure if the perch spacing is different on these vs. a '86-'97 D60.
What I think got everyone going was that he also used front lift blocks (that were also too narrow for the leaf springs). Everyone just fixated on that, along with his shackles that had some aesthetic issues. Outside of that I didn't really see much else to fault his build over though (the shackles still looked plenty sturdy to me).



As for leafs being ¼ the cost of coils, that I'm not sure I can agree with... You can do a coil-sprung radius arm setup for pretty much next to nothing too. I don't think the extra material for the radius arms would be more than a hundred or two.

 

[JohnnyU]

I never said leaves were half-assing the build, they're a perfectly capable suspension system. I just think that you're reinventing the wheel when you are almost already set-up for using coils.


Seriously, once I finished removing all of the IFS garbage, how much work was it for me to build my front suspension?

 

[CheapThrillB2]

Another Guy I wheel with who I do not think is on here has a 87? Ranger and he used the spring hangar and shackle bolted to the side of the frame near the front cab mount. Then tied the other end into a custom bumper. But I do not think he has any pics on the net.

 

[Burnside]

If I were installing a narrow axle I would agree that I am almost setup for coils. Going with a full-width I am starting from scratch.

Need a new tranny x-member, new coils, coil buckets which will need to be spaced off of the frame. I will need to modify my differential shoulder if I could come up with some c-wedges, but this route would for sure be cheaper than the ballistic fab route. They have excellent pricing but it definitely starts adding up. 150$ for coils, 50$ for coil buckets, 50$ for coil seats, 50$ x 3 or more for ballistic joints, 40$ 2 for 2 radius arm mounts. 50$ for 2 panhard bar mounts. and I am sure I am missing a bushing or joint. That wouldn't add up to an astronomical amount but I still have a lot of money that needs to be spent on 35 spline outers, steering, and gearing.

I already have all the items needed to install the rear axle with 63" chevy's.

Since I'm parting out the bII I have an extra set of hangers and shackles. I scored an explorer rear leaf pack for free. I can mix and match from the ranger & bII spring packs to adjust the exploder packs. The plan would be to use stock hanger and shackles from rear of an rbv for the rear of the front leaf springs. and then hang the front of the spring from the front bumper.

Essentially the only parts needed are u-bolts, u-bolt plates, and tabs to weld on the front bumper to hang them. I even have a set of replacement bushings I never got around to replaceing in my old ranger way back in the day. I also do not see the need to modify my tranny x-member with leaf springs, I also think a true 3-link or 4-link would have clearance issues with the stock exhaust and engine x-member.

I'm not saying I won't change my mind if I stumble across a set of c-wedge d44 arms. As of now leafs are looking really cheap and easy.

I am going to get the 4.0 and m5od installed, and finish the rear suspension before I tackle the front so I have some time to think about it. Keep the discussion going though;

 

[1badexplorer]

The only down fall I see of going front leafs is Tire clearance. You will want to watch waht back space wheel you run. On my early bronco I have the leafs outboarded just like in the pics. They work great, I'm only running a front 87-older chevy 6" lift spring. The springs are 46" long and 2.5"? wide. They acually flew very well for me. I didn't have any problems using the narrow spring on the wide perch either. The only problem is when I cut the wheels the whole way the tires rub on the leafs and I am running a 79 axle that has the narrower spring pad locations. My wheels are 4" backspace and with the beadlock they are about 11.5" wide. I have 44" boggers. If I can pivot the truck around the tire if I put enough pressure on the tire on an obsticle and fully cut the wheels. I think you will be fine with how you plan to do it as long as you have clearance to fully cut the wheels.

 

[Burnside]

What kind of backspacing would those of you with experience recommend for the tire to clear the leaf spring at an acceptable turn radius?

Of course it will be wide but I would like to trim as many inches off as I can, yet not butcher your turn radius? i.e. of course H1 wheels that have 6" of backspacing would narrow it up but you'd "have the turn radius of a boat."

Ideally I like the looks of 4" or so of backspacing but would go for 3.5" or 3" if it'd help out on tire to spring clearance. I don't want to do 2.5" or less when you can clearly see the rotor outside of the wheel. I already have the 42x15" tsl's, bigger than I had initially planned but got a good deal on them so that's what I'm running. I would like to run a 10" wheel, but again, if an 8" would narrow it up to vastly improve tire to spring clearance at full lock, I'll run an 8". I have weld on bead locks too if that means anything in determining wheel width.