86+ D60 w/ Leafs.

[NMB2]

 

[1badexplorer]

What kind of backspacing would those of you with experience recommend for the tire to clear the leaf spring at an acceptable turn radius?

Of course it will be wide but I would like to trim as many inches off as I can, yet not butcher your turn radius? i.e. of course H1 wheels that have 6" of backspacing would narrow it up but you'd "have the turn radius of a boat."

Ideally I like the looks of 4" or so of backspacing but would go for 3.5" or 3" if it'd help out on tire to spring clearance. I don't want to do 2.5" or less when you can clearly see the rotor outside of the wheel. I already have the 42x15" tsl's, bigger than I had initially planned but got a good deal on them so that's what I'm running. I would like to run a 10" wheel, but again, if an 8" would narrow it up to vastly improve tire to spring clearance at full lock, I'll run an 8". I have weld on bead locks too if that means anything in determining wheel width.

I wouls say that you want around 3" back space. Being mine rub but most of the time it doesnt bother me when on the trail. But I have a narrower spring width, but also keep in mind I have larger tires. I would say that a 10" wheel, 3" BS and weld on beadlock should work out good for you.

 

[bradz71]

I got to thinking about this more today after Josh picked up both leaf springs and radius arm parts today.

My vote is still for leafs all the way, just because its not the "normal", thing to do. Same thing with John's Chevy, he went coils and its not really the "normal" thing to do. Makes your truck stand out from others.

Leafs would be so easy to do, and with Explorer leafs up front, without the overload, and maybe with an extra leaf from another pack to stiffen them up, I really think it will twist up pretty good. S-10 SAS guys run them or Durango rear springs up front, and Toyota SAS guys run stock rear packs up front, so it can't be much different on a RBV. It could be setup so simple and yet work great.

....he could have his suspension setup and in for the cost of u-bolts, a grinder wheel, and a good 1/2'' drill bit; and do it in a couple days without a lot of time in fabwork and crap like that.

 

[Bray D]

Leaf setups have been proven to work. I love the simplicity of it, but I think turning radius will be a pretty big issue without being able to inboard the springs.

So now you've got the axle, springs, and tires. Toss the springs and tires on the axle and find the max steering angle before the tires rub. Then you can weigh whether the simplicity is worth the lack of a tight turning radius.

 

[Burnside]

Brad hooked me up big time today. I got the chevy "lowering" shackles, exploder leaf packs, & radius arms/caps and mounts, 3" blocks for the rear if needed, a 1354 tcase, and some driveshafts. Thanks man!

I have the leafs and Brad is definitely correct, it'd be super easy and cheap. But damnit he gave those radius arms so now that is a very viable option also. I already bought adjustable coil buckets from bray.... decisions decisions. The turn radius issue does bother me. Tomorrow I am going to quick put a tire and wheel and spring together and check out what I'd be working with.

1BadExplorer: Do you know how much your truck measures from the outside of the tires? I know I'm going full width and it's gonna be wide. but I'd like to save some inches when I can. I need to come up with provisions for it fitting on my trailer too.

 

[1badexplorer]

1BadExplorer: Do you know how much your truck measures from the outside of the tires? I know I'm going full width and it's gonna be wide. but I'd like to save some inches when I can. I need to come up with provisions for it fitting on my trailer too.

Mine is 92" from the widest parts of the boggers.

I'm running:

79 Dana 60 front full width (69" WMS)

44x19.5x16.5 Boggers

16.5x10 with weldon beadlock which makes them around 11.5 wide and they have 4" BS

 

[NMB2]

holy shit thats wide. Mine is 79".

 

[JohnnyU]

What's your intended wheelbase, Josh?

 

[CheapThrillB2]

If you use explorer leafs...don't take the overload out or if you do, then def add some more leafs. I removed the overload in my first pair and I ended up twisting the crap out of the main leaf and it axle wrapped worse without the over loads.

 

[Burnside]

What's your intended wheelbase, Josh?

Minimum of 110", That's why I am switching from a bII chasis to a Ranger. With the ranger I am already at 114". It seems like everyone who builds a hardcore bII, ends up stretching the wheel base and puting a ranger cab on it. I think that's because you need to butcher the rear tub so bad to get the rear axle pushed back. I figure the rust free ranger I picked up was 200$, that's worth having the encolosed cab again and not needing to stretch the wheelbase. If I stretch it some more during the build than I am fine with that, every time you read about some one stretching their wheelbase, they are always happy with the improved performance.

My trailer is 89" between the fenders. So I would like to keep it right at that or under. Seeings how 1BadExplorer is at 92" with the 19.5" wide tires- I might luck out.

CheapThrill: If I go with leafs I was gonna remove the overload and add a random leaf from one of the other two RBV packs.

 

[NMB2]

I'm going to do a little work on the B2 today so ill take some pics for you of anything you need.

 

[NMB2]

took some pics for you of the axle at full lock.

full lock on the box, about 3/4" gap inbetween.

doesnt even get close to touching, those are 2.5" wide trail-gear leafs, outboarded as you can see on the stock perch locations.
axle is a 97 F350 axle, rims are 15x10 Marsh racing beadlocks, 4" BS w/ 1/2" spacer, so 3.5" equiv. 39.5x13.5 IROK's

 

[Burnside]

Awesome pics man, thanks they do help out a ton, thanks for all of the exact info to go along with it. Johnny U came over today and we put the axle on stands and put a wheel/tire, set a leaf spring pack on the perch. And honestly it's pretty good. I took some pictures with my cell phone.

Here's a pic of the tire and leaf on straight.

Here's with the 42" turned and touching the leaf spring, it's essentially at full lock.

That's a lot better than I could've imagined it being, and it's on a wheel with 4" back spacing. I think 3" and don't think you'd have a problem.

We did some measuring on the frame and it's almost like the rear hangers were made for outboarding springs with the 86+ springs.

John did come up with some really slick ideas on how to go about outboarding my coil spring perches though. It'd still end up costing a lot more than leafs... we'll see how this all goes.

CheapThrill: So you're reccomending the stock Explorer leaf pack including the overload?

 

[JeepRecoveryTeam]

i ran leafs for over a year in mine with a 44 now im going to a 60 and a 14bolt and doing a 3 link with a panhard bar and air shocks.

 

[Bray D]

Nice pics guys. That makes running leaf springs a lot more appealing (IMO).