'85 Ranger Restomod

[85_Ranger4x4]

It actually went in easier than the 2.8/A4LD came out.

I cut a hunk out of the middle of a hose and spliced it back together. It looked like crap and I always wondered if it would blow apart. IMO I would spend $10 and get a 90 degree water neck for a 90's Mustang and run the 5.0 Explorer hose. I haven't actually tried on the radiator yet it but I really like now it looks just on the water neck. With the CV front dress it is completely open on that side of the engine so your options are pretty much limitless.

That is a 21575 Carquest hose by the way.

I used a flex hose on the bottom, it worked fine.

 

[Robert_1967]

Have you thought of using the metal flex hose that comes with the rubber ends and shiny ends????





Robert




posted from my Dell while taking a walk on the dark side of the moon.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Have you thought of using the metal flex hose that comes with the rubber ends and shiny ends????

I know for my application a flex hose wants to kink, the two outlets are too close together (engine is too close to the rad) and the radiator one is pointing away from the engine. The Ex hose looks darn near perfect though. With my current FEAD it has to dodge the alternator too.

I will try to remember to set the rad in tomorrow when I am working on it and snap a pic.

Danger is moving his radiator ahead so he may not have my problem though... well not really a problem, I prefer using off the shelf stuff for things like this so if I have a problem in the middle of nowhere there is a chance somebody might have it.

 

[Robert_1967]

This is the flex hose type I was typing about http://www.coolflex.com/cfm/welcome.cfm

they cost a bit more then I thought.



Robert




Posted from the Restaurant at the End of the Universe.

 

[dangerranger83]

That's my plans, use stuff that I can get easily that need replacing and as little custom stuff as possible. I'm putting a 5.0 rad in so I am going to have a bit of work to do to the core support but nothing a welder and a fee other tools cant help me out with. My biggest thing is a rear driveshaft and how to go about that the easiest way.

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[85_Ranger4x4]

My biggest thing is a rear driveshaft and how to go about that the easiest way.

Nothing a couple days at a machine shop won't fix.

It was $50 to have my front shortened, and $180 to have the rear lengthened... so find one too long and have it shortened if you need a longer shaft. It is also quicker to cut one down than to retube one.

Some of the biggest hangups for your couple day swap is the driveshaft and exhaust. You can't do either until the engine is in and then you are at somebody elses mercy for time. It took a couple days for each in my case, and you have to have the driveshafts (as in both) in it for the exhaust guy so he can route it around the front.

 

[Robert_1967]

you have to have the driveshafts (as in both) in it for the exhaust guy so he can route it around where the front goes.

Amen, I found a set of Headers for a 2.9 that I was going to buy for 50.00 for my BII and the driver side wouldn't work because of the drive shaft.




Robert



Sent by my Dell while watching the Heart of Gold dive in to a sun.

 

[dangerranger83]

The exhaust I'm not to worried about, it can look ugly all day but the driveshaft has to be dead on. Plans are to get one from a truck that can fit my front ujoint for the slip yoke cut to size and also fit a flange so it can bolt to a 7.5 or 8.8, 3 inch flange that is.

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[85_Ranger4x4]

The exhaust I'm not to worried about, it can look ugly all day but the driveshaft has to be dead on. Plans are to get one from a truck that can fit my front ujoint for the slip yoke cut to size and also fit a flange so it can bolt to a 7.5 or 8.8, 3 inch flange that is.

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I actually had to take mine back because the front driveshaft rubbed on the exhaust. Apparently the guy didn't know the front diff moves with the suspension, and when you have it on a chassis lift the diff drops. When I picked it up he said he still couldn't see how it would touch the driveshaft because there was more than an inch of room between the two but he did smoosh the pipe a little so it does clear now.

 

[dangerranger83]

Well my truck having a SAS done to it that gave it 5 inches of lift in the front, I dont think I will have to much of an issue, if any at all.

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[85_Ranger4x4]

Well I had to make a tool to do it but I did finally get the stupid dipstick installed. I ended up pulling the steering shaft to free up room which was surprisingly easy.

I showed my soft plug delima to my dad, he agrees that to really get at it the engine mount has to go. I explained that the engine had shifted and it would be great to reshift it at the same time while the engine was loose. He offered up that if we got the truck out of the shed we could use one of his service trucks with a electric winch on a boom rather than putting it together and driving it a couple miles only to pull it all apart and use a regular shop hoist. So at least some progress has been made on that...

 

[dangerranger83]

Updates?

Also another question and hopefully pics too, but where sis you mount the Mr. Gasket 12S pump at? Im also told to mount them at a 45 degree angle to help the fuel pump be able to pump fuel uphill.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

It is mounted as close to the fuel tank as I could get it at the angle like it said to. The nylon fuel line is a bugger to get forced onto 1/4" hose barb fitting, I actually tickled them a little with a lathe to make them go on and used hose clamps to be doubly sure. I did wire it with a inertia kill switch from a fuel injected truck and a regular toggle switch. Kinda nice you can kill the truck for a thief and you can suck the carb dry if you are going to do carb work on it.

We did get the soft plug changed, hope it works out. Since it was right by the suspected intake leak I wonder if it didn't have a temp spike right there that pushed coolant out.

Just tonight I got around to trying to resituate the engine. Backed the service truck up to my Ranger and it would have to crush the bumper a little to reach. So then I pulled it away, trying to think how I would get the big shop hoist home and wasn't really coming up with any good answers.

Then I thought what the heck, I have been reluctant to try the tractor and three point boom but I talked myself into it under the guise I would crank in the center link and let the screw threads pull up the engine, that didn't work.

The hydraulics are a little more relentless than a jack on an engine hoist and a little tougher to control which is why I was leary to try it. Then I got to thinking I just had the nuts loose on the bottom of the engine crossmember so it isn't like it would come flipping out and cause massive damage. So then at a normal idle I eased up the hydraulics, it started taking weight off the front suspension and that is all it would do. So then I set it back down and pulled the throttle clear back to barely running. For some reason the way the hydraulics are set up so it will run higher pressure at lower RPM, it will either pick up what you want to pick up or the front of the tractor. So then I really eased on it, the hydrualics groaned, the rear of the tractor sank and the front of the truck came up... and with a "pop" the DS came and shortly after the PS slowly came up and the front of the truck settled. Then I got a helper to run the tractor while I pulled a ratchet strap hooked on the engine mount to hold the PS higher than the DS while they let the engine back down.

Got it settled back in and now I gotta snag the jack again so I can unload the suspension and get a wrench on the nuts (I forgot about that little snag) Hopefully it doesn't settle overnight so I have to do it all over again...

At this point I do wish I would have used the V6 mounts and plates...

 

[dangerranger83]

I will have 1/4 steel waiting just incase I have to use the metal plate mounts, but for now, I'll try the mustang mounts. Im about a month away from starting and giving myself a week to finish and be driveable. After that details will kick in and get 4wd going again.

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[85_Ranger4x4]

I went to put the headers on tonight, unless I can turn up a 12 point open end wrench my ARP header bolts will not work. Can't get a socket on them, can't wrap a box end around them... re-frickin-ha. Stuck for another couple days waiting on parts.

They do show the 6pt set on O'Reilly's website I wouldn't bet a rubber nickel they have them in stock though.