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'85 Ranger Restomod


I doubt your theory is correct. The cruise control in my B2 continued working after I blew the fuse for the brake lights. It just didn't shut off real well.

That is what I expected by not hooking the wire up. It would be funky to kill but still work.

The system checks out perfect except I have no way to test modules. I have thrown three at it so far and none of them have done a thing. The book just says replace with known good unit... which is pretty dang unhandy when the rig is over 30 years old and "known good units" are not on shelves anymore... :annoyed:
 
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Sorry for jumping in the middle, but have you looked at one of the Mitchell manuals with pinpoint cruise control troubleshooting tests?
 
That is what I expected by not hooking the wire up. It would be funky to kill but still work.

The system checks out perfect except I have no way to test modules. I have thrown three at it so far and none of them have done a thing. The book just says replace with known good unit... which is pretty dang unhandy when the rig is over 30 years old and "known good units" are not on shelves anymore... :annoyed:

Too bad you are umpteen hundred miles from me. I have a known good unit. Not too sure where it is, but I know I have it.
 
Sorry for jumping in the middle, but have you looked at one of the Mitchell manuals with pinpoint cruise control troubleshooting tests?

Just the EVTM and the factory Ford service manuals.

The servo checks out, the steering wheel switches check out, the VSS checks out, everything going to the module itself checks out.
 
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I went out to the barn with my ohm meter to check my spare dash harness, starting at the two green wires at the clutch switch I started working my way down the part of the cab harness that spills out on the LH fender in the engine bay.

We have a match! :icon_rofl:



I went in the garage, and using a hastily fabricated special tool I broke out the test light:





Green wire that only has power with the brake or flashers... that needle is found.

It looks like it is C177.



Still don't know why the cruise doesn't work but now I know where to tie in wire 511. :icon_thumby:
 
My latest project. Should clean up the engine bay not having the big loom hanging across the firewall. I won't have to tape the loom up so either so it should be easier to work on too.

Almost got it done before winter comes again, I am going to change how the coil is wired yet. I have it wired coming straight out of the connector coming out of the firewall. I see when it does that from the factory it has a fuseable link in it, so it is going to come from over on the PS firewall from my added fuse panel. Some nip and tuck will be required on the PS fender too but it really isn't as bad as it looks.

 
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Yes, I want to know, too.
 
I think that's an old EVTM.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
Which manual did you find this diagram in? I really can see what's happening with the wires a lot better than a regular electrical diagram.

1988 EVTM.

I think Ford forgot to put the connector in the regular diagram, there is NOTHING called out I can see. That really complicated finding it, normally you look at the wiring diagram, look at the illustration and bing, there it is. My '85 EVTM didn't show anything either.

EDIT:

Trans is done



I need to put the rest of the fluid in it, change the top cover gasket, work over the shifter stub to work with my R1 shifter and the extension housing to work with my NP205 and throw some paint at it but it is done enough to get out of my basement when/if it warms up again.
 
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Updated wiring diagram.



A few connectors I have tracked down and documented:



Clutch switch connector:



Connector pinout for my harness I am running moving to the radiator support.

 
Wiring project is winding down which is great because I need this thing running to do some exhaust work on my F-150.

Looking pretty spiffy:



So much cleaner:



My connector for my added harness:



I need to get a little bit more loom for my duraspark harness and clamps for the harnesses on the radiator support and for the choke wire and it is done. And I need to secure the radiator, I know I am going to forget that. :fie:
 
You still need the giant box on the passenger quarter panel that houses the vacuum sensors, etc?

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
You still need the giant box on the passenger quarter panel that houses the vacuum sensors, etc?

The two fuse panels and the the key power/coil relays all live there. :icon_thumby:

It is nice having a short jump off the battery to get them power, most of what they feed is under the hood anyway and there is adequate room for them there.
 
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Gotcha. I was just startled to see it there.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

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