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'85 Ranger Restomod


Swiped a wrench from work and got the last one tight.



Goodbye, good luck and may the good lord take a likin' to you... 'cause I just as soon not see you again.



As soon as the goo gets set up we are good to go to dump fluid in it and put the cover on it. Shims are due on Monday. :yahoo:

 
Swiped a wrench from work and got the last one tight.



Goodbye, good luck and may the good lord take a likin' to you... 'cause I just as soon not see you again.



As soon as the goo gets set up we are good to go to dump fluid in it and put the cover on it. Shims are due on Monday. :yahoo:

Looks great, now you just need a fresh coat of paint.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
Looks great, now you just need a fresh coat of paint.

In a month or two when it gets consistently warm enough it is getting a coat of silver argent. :icon_thumby:
 
Parts finally came in. Seal/gasket kit is for the 205.



Front cover is on.



I need to change out the rubber plugs for expansion plugs, drill out the mounting bolts for 302 sized bolts and mod the extension housing for my NP205... so once I get the plugs done it can vacate my basement.
 
I have been on a mission to try to figure out what is going on with my ignition. It is has been driving me nuts and I need to get to the bottom of it.

So first plan, make sure everything has really good connections. Been soldering every connection ignition related.

Then I got to the coil part of the ignition harness. Why is there three wires coming out of the tach side of the coil? One goes to the ignition module, one goes to the tach on the dash... and one goes into the big harness that goes across the firewall why? Cut open that loom (again :annoyed:)



There is a huge resister in that wire too... well physically huge anyway I didn't put a meter on it.



Anyway, from there it runs down below the blower motor housing and into the cab... to the friggin 2.8 computer. :shok:

Dunno what my Duraspark would think of doing all that with its tach signal but it can't be helping anything. Could possibly be how whatever it is can kill both coils and modules.

I have been wrong enough before I am not going to call it the smoking gun... but it does feel like a warm gun anyway.
 
`

The wire hunt of 2018 continues.

Main key power had a splice (factory) that was still giving giving two wires of keyed power to the 2.8's computer too. There was also a wire giving the computer constant battery power too. That all has been eliminated.

You're fired!... Again!... Still! :temper:



I think the hole is sufficiently plugged. I know there is a mouse out there going "hold my beer" :beer:

 
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I know there is a mouse out there going "hold my beer" :beer:

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It runs again!

Ignition is now 100% verified standalone. I have been charting and numbering connectors on the DS fenderwell too.

Also been figuring out how best to move the harness that goes along the firewall to inside the radiator support to clean up the engine bay.
 
i have seen that fawker bastard mouse...

loves to eat all of my paperwork...
 
i have seen that fawker bastard mouse...

loves to eat all of my paperwork...

For awhile there I had one that would take the paperwork and build a nest behind the radio, that crap got old real fast.

Dunno if a barn cat, poison or old age got that the prick but the last two years have been smooth sailing.
 
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I was stuck in the house over the weekend, cold and nasty outside and i had a nasty cold myself.

So I went thru my EVTM's trying to figure out two questions for my cruise:

A. Why it don't work
B. How the brake light wire connects to the truck and if that could have any bearing on the cruise not working.

Green wire #511 is the shady character in question. And how it goes from C225 (clutch switch) to C129 (near the trans tunnel on the engine side of the firewall) which is where the VSS wires meet the main cruise control harness that goes thru the firewall and back to the module.

I wonder if it was originally in the engine harness and that is why I am in the dark with the complete dash harness and CC harness and nowhere for that wire to come from.



It just splits off from the light switch circuit and goes straight to the cruise... with a splice going to "engine controls"



The only thing I can come up with is maybe the module wants to see an impulse of current from that wire to "prove" that that brake switch can kick the cruise off as a safety measure. Pretty much always you will need to touch the brakes before getting to the point of needing cruise control.
 
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I doubt your theory is correct. The cruise control in my B2 continued working after I blew the fuse for the brake lights. It just didn't shut off real well.
 

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