Big Jim M
Well-Known Member
Ok
First what is it that causes the dist to stop turning? If it is the vac advance hitting something then the below is the only thing I can think of to get the proper timing to the engine. If it is wire length or something simple then change that and get the dist to twist more.
Then lets assume the spout does not exist. Then the lowest timing you can get out of the dist is 20*? might be a simple one cog off when the dist was installed.
So what you need to do is to twist the dist all the way as far as it will go toward the 20* setting. Then take the cap off and MARK where the rotor is pointed. Then you will see which direction the rotor will need to go to retard the timing MORE.. So remove the dist and look closely at the bottom of the dist. Most have a bottom that looks like a standard screwdriver. If so or whatever the shape is you get a similar shape and stick it down in the dist hole and ADVANCE the oil pump drive hole with that screwdriver.
Now you can install the dist one cog and when installed with the rotor pointed to the same location as before the timing should be greatly retarded.
It is not uncommon for a dist to get one cog off when being installed. Sometimes the installing procedure is one cog off and the oil pump obliges by moving a bit to accommodate the bottom of the dist.
Then when the setting is at 6* install the vac back to the advance. Off-idle is the advised location.
Big Jim
The plug I found did not have a shorting bar in it but it was the only thing that even looked close to a SPOUT. In theory if it was the spout the timing should be down closer to 6* since the shorting bar isn't in there right? The new distributor looks exactly like the one I removed. Also checked with a couple parts stores for my make and model and all call for a vacuum advance distributor. There is no mention of a SPOUT in the Haynes manual under the timing instructions for my make and model. And I am unable to locate it on the wiring diagram for my make and model. Also when I twist the distributor the timing does in fact change. it goes in between 20*-35* before it starts to die. (assuming the distributor contacts get too far from rotor) let me know your thoughts. just a reminder this is a 83 Ford ranger 2.3 carbureted.
First what is it that causes the dist to stop turning? If it is the vac advance hitting something then the below is the only thing I can think of to get the proper timing to the engine. If it is wire length or something simple then change that and get the dist to twist more.
Then lets assume the spout does not exist. Then the lowest timing you can get out of the dist is 20*? might be a simple one cog off when the dist was installed.
So what you need to do is to twist the dist all the way as far as it will go toward the 20* setting. Then take the cap off and MARK where the rotor is pointed. Then you will see which direction the rotor will need to go to retard the timing MORE.. So remove the dist and look closely at the bottom of the dist. Most have a bottom that looks like a standard screwdriver. If so or whatever the shape is you get a similar shape and stick it down in the dist hole and ADVANCE the oil pump drive hole with that screwdriver.
Now you can install the dist one cog and when installed with the rotor pointed to the same location as before the timing should be greatly retarded.
It is not uncommon for a dist to get one cog off when being installed. Sometimes the installing procedure is one cog off and the oil pump obliges by moving a bit to accommodate the bottom of the dist.
Then when the setting is at 6* install the vac back to the advance. Off-idle is the advised location.
Big Jim