83 Codes?

[TheNicky]

Shran-To be honest i dont think i would be able to tell... my engine has yet to be at a constant idle... it makes that click noise.. and up and down she goes and it never stops...

so spraying carb cleaner im sure will be effective i just wont be able to tell by hearning it becuase its revin up and down up an down in no perticular order...

So im gonna just use a vac guage...

Sound Good?

 

[TheNicky]

Still having alot of problems! heres what i did in order...

1.Re-set the timing with the cord unplugged...
2.Plugged back in
3.Noticed a clicking noise near the vac/electic stuff on the left
4. Found the source area its the 2 plugs and 1 vacum line on passenger side aboive the labeled Sol V above the egr vac stuff (Not EGR) iits the one aboove that...
5.Unplugged and the clicking disapeared... and only click while engine is on...
6.Plugged back in!
7. Whatever that is i think is my problem...
8.Truck idle is still crazy! likes to backfire
9.Plugged my odb scanner to see if i could pull any codes
10. Pressed test. heard a spin (start of cycle) then that same click i have been mentioning and then stops the cycle...
11. Dont get any codes now im really stuck!

PLease help guys!

 

[TheNicky]

Edited the above post!

Any HELP?

 

[enginepaul]

I use a Ford Emission Diagnosis manual. It has step by step procedures for analysing codes. Sometimes you need a break-out box to check things. Everything you may need can be had on E-Bay or other sources.
Always start with the lowest code, repair that, then go to the next code (there are exceptions; if you get a 23 and a 68 - do the 69 first = one reason the factory manual is helpful). Unfortunately, you sometimes get false codes from "re-manufactured" computers.
Carefully check the vacuum lines. The hard ones can get brittle and crack, thus causing lots of problems.
Setting the idle and other things are not that hard, but it takes too much time to type out instructins.
More later - I have to go to Sacramento to get work done.

 

[dangerranger83]

My dads has a relay that clicks when he takes his foot of the gas going down the road (basiclly letting the motor slow him down) but he doesnt care about it and we assume its just doing its job. It also clicks sometimes when it sits and idles in our driveway or a a stop light. The things that control your idle are the throttle position sensor and idle speed actuator. The throotle position sensor is located on the side of your carb. and is attached to your butterfly valve rod (if that make sence) and your idle speed actuator is the thing that adjusts your idle based upon what the computers readings are from your engine and emissions stuff. The idle speed actuator is adjustable and you are able to move it forward and backwards with a with a 5/16 wrench. Thats how we got the idle on my dads truck to where we wanted it plus we adjusted a small long headless screw on the back driver side of the carb. that makes contact with the accelerator arm that alos helped. I know you live in California, and emission are though (from the sounds of it), but see if you are able to do the duraspark swap. I think ive seen people on here that live in California and have done it (would ask around to be sure).

 

[TheNicky]

Danger i already replaced the tps 2 times just to see if i can get any difference and didnt seem to help... and this click noise happens mayne 15-20 every other minute...

and my engine is always going up and down in idle...

i had to go buy a vacum tester so ill be doing that today

But i think where my problem is, is this clicking noise!

 

[TheNicky]

What about the actuator? i tested all mine to see if there working using a Vmeter and they all seem to do the job...

When should i see that move? when foots on gas? becuase when im looking at it that pin doesnt move as much as i would think its supposed to

 

[dangerranger83]

THe actuator should move when the gas pedal moves the throttle on the carb. It moves just as much as the throttle does. If not then it may be the problem. Your throttle rests on it and that would determine your idle. If it keeps moving (or not) then your throttle postion sensor detects movement and it will try to keep motor idling smoothly. From the sounds of it one of those components is working right, it might be the actuator.

 

[TheNicky]

Ill go check again if the actuator is moving...

But i checked vac lines everything is ok.. they all hold vacum...

Me and a friend are starting to think this is electrical, possibly defective computer?

Becuase the ranger cant make up its mind wether high or low idle...

Ill start it and have RPMS through the roof and turn it off and restart it

to have low idle where its backfiring and dying really bad...

On top of that after about 25 times trying i cant get my odb to pull codes?

I was succesful in pulling codes about 2 days ago and since then i cant get ANything which screams electrical, computer problem...

 

[Mutant Pony]

Isc (idle speed control) should cycle in and out when you turn the key to the on position. The ECT and the TPS are both major sensors that have to be reading right in order for the vehicle to run right.
There was a ground wire bolted down with the carb from the factory, Is it still there?
You could have a number of different problems, It is not possible for someone to just tell you what is wrong without actually testing things.
I will say that it is highly possible that both of those parts are bad.

 

[E4Ranger]

Good looking 83, mine looks the same only tan w/ dents and faded. I put a Weber carb conversion on mine and took all CA emission stuff out, x 3 yrs now- but I can do that here. i know if you are getting any "blow by"(compression blowing by the piston and rings due to wear, causing oil to blow out the dipstick tube) it will effect that feedback carb alot. My Dad and I rebuilt the engine, stoped the "blow by", put the same carb back on and it ran fine, until the "blow by" came back. The feedback carb was a sensitive and mostly a headache before they went to fuel injection on the 2.3L. I feel for ya, hope you can remedy this problem.

 

[TheNicky]

Mutant Pony! I changed the tps and my ect is getting its 0.06v im gonna change it tomorrow... but before i put the tps on i checked to see if it worked and it did...

Im telling you its this clicking noise...

i dont know what it is i pinpointed the noise coming from the picture below..

The two clips in the middle (solV)

It clicks like crazy and makes effects on my odb cycle and the idle of my engine im sure !!!

Any tips how to fix... it souonds like it arcs? and gets warm?

And thanks E4ranger its looks nice on the outside... working on the engine.. 1 step at a time lol

 

[dangerranger83]

Thats the same place where my dads relays click. And I mean they are loud when they click but they seem to be doing their job. The relay that clicks for him is the one that comes to/from the black can. But ya from the sounds of it you might have a computer/electrical problem. When I put my 2.8 with TBI in ill have to mess with relay like those (im not looking forward to it but if I can get free to work).

 

[TheNicky]

That orange vac line goes to the backside of the carb.. and the green ones below go to egr... i did the vac test on them everything is ok...

i think i might go grab one from pick n pull just to see if anything changes...

Becuase ill start my engine and it will run at (normal sounding idle) then click and then it will Drop Really low (about to die) or really high!

So ill try it out and report back...

 

[dangerranger83]

We found out how our vaccum lines were suppose to be by going to the library and look it up. Turns out there are 8 different types of ways ford did them!!! We found out which one ours was by the numbers on the front of the passenger side valve cover and then looked at our vaccum charts from the library. Thats one way to find out what goes where. Another way is to look above the grill and there should be a vaccum diagram. Or you could go to ford. But my dads ran weird until we got them right.