2.3L ('83-'97) 7volts to fuel pump, crank no start

[panzies_n_unicornz]

howdy. new OP big fan of yalls forum. i got a puzzle for ye and im not sure where to post it. my 92 2.3l 5speed ranger lost all power on the highway the other day, stayed running/iddling till i turned it off, since then she will crank with no start. i have fuel in tank, no pressure at schrader valve, fuel pump is getting 7volts, inertia switch is closed and getting 7volts, fp relay is clicking and recieving 12volts from starter side but sending out 7 volts to inertia switch. ground to fuel pump has zero ohms resistance. starter fluid into the intake didnt do anything but i changed the fuel pump anyway. as long as the key is in accessory position the 7 volts is always running, the eec doesnt seem to stop supplying power after the initial priming [which as far as i can tell isnt actually happening becuase 7volts doesnt seem to be enough to power up the fuel pump?]. so after consulting forums and the shop manual im still wondering:
1. is my fuel pump supposed to be getting 10-12volts not 7 and how that could be happening
2. if the ecm-side of the relay is always supplying power, how can i test for a short to ground betwen the relay and eec and how can i figure out if i have an ecm issue
3. is there anything else yall suggest checking out

thanks!!!

 

[Alan_nc]

Have you tried pulling the fuel pump rely switch and jumping between 30 and 87 terminals. This should bypass the computer and inertia switch and send direct power to the fuel pump.

 

[bobbywalter]

Have you tried pulling the fuel pump rely switch and jumping between 30 and 87 terminals. This should bypass the computer and inertia switch and send direct power to the fuel pump.

...no...

But if the relay is bad, which your description concludes to me ...it should clean up the voltage. If it does not there is a corrosion issue between it and the inertia switch....replace wire.

 

[Curious Hound]

Agreed ^^^^
12volts into relay and 7 volts out means bad relay or bad connection at relay.

 

[Alan_nc]

If you think it's the fuel pump relay just swap it with one of the other relays - look on a electrical diagram - they are all most all the same. I think the AC relay is right next to the fuel pump relay. Put it in the fuel pump relay spot and try and start it.

 

[panzies_n_unicornz]

sorry for the delay n thanks for the replies. i changed the relay and am now hearing the pump turn on and create a suction sound in the tank but it is still at 7volts not 12v and is not turning off after initial priming. i finally checked ignition and i dont have sparks from either coilpacks... the icm is getting 12v and has a good ground. i am hand-cranking the engine and reading output voltage from the crankshaft pos sensor and am getting 10v flat no oscillation to zero volts. could my cka be bad ?

 

[panzies_n_unicornz]

the magnet had broken off my crankshaft timing sensor . has anyone replaced one if these? not sure how to line it up with the positioning tool thaf comes with it

 

[RonD]

Just FYI
You will see 5 to 8volts on the fuel pump's 12volt wire with key on/engine off, that is NORMAL, it has no amps, it is the monitor voltage from the computer
There is only 12volts for 2 seconds, 2 seconds, when key is first turned on, then 5 to 8volts after that, so no fuel pump
Fuel pump does not get 12volts full time until engine starts, above 400RPM
You can have someone cycle the key off and on to see if you are getting the 12v for those 2 seconds
This is the same on ALL Fords with electric fuel pumps, not a Ranger thing



In a 1992 2.3l the Crank Sensor is just above the crank shaft timing belt gear, it reads a "wheel" that spins with crankshaft
No magnet

There may also be a Camshaft sensor, on driver side of timing belt cover, also no magnet

The crankshaft positioning tool lines up the sensor so it doesn't touch the wheel while its spinning, its not for TDC, its just so there is no touching, and pre-covid-19, it was ahead of its time