4x4 5.0 swap with pics!

[blue83ranger]

on my '83 4x4, Tri y's didn't fit. The main issue was the front driveshaft, i didn't see any way around it, but luckily i have 60's mustangs too, so that's where i'll use them. your truck looks great by the way.

 

[ChrisR1S]

Other than the driveshaft did everything else clear? With what transmission? I'm not too worried about the driveshaft currently because once this project is done the front suspension goes under the knife

 

[blue83ranger]

It's been pretty long since i tried them, I think my engine was also to low and they were going to hit the frame. (i used stock 2.8 mounts with a flat plate bolted to the top of them.) and I beleive the bellhousing might of been an issue but it's been so long i can't really remember for sure. I used a c4 with the 164 tooth flexplate, and i also have a 3 inch body lift so there was no issue with the cab being in the way with the headers or transmission.

 

[ChrisR1S]

Alright, well the transmission and the ungodly enormous transfer case are in place. Currently i have the face of the bellhousing resting flush with the firewall until i can get the engine in. rain kinda prevented me from getting that done.

Downey, idk if ill have to slide the transmission around any but as it sits right now the shifter is about i reckon 2inches forward of the stock location.(see pics!)

And here are some pics for the day haha:

Block turns out to be from an '87 F-150 but the bosses arent drilled so ill just throw a flat tappet cam in it and be happy with the old-school sound

Stock 4x4 crossmember and the suicidedoors.com crossmember. SD crossmember was well worth the money; everything was perfect, no trimming, drilling, or adjusting was required.

That bellhousing takes up more room than i imagined it would... Not looking so promising for the tri-y's

The fraction of an inch between the framerail and t-case. Case may come back out for some grinding

Clearance from the top of the T-case to the floor pan

If it slides back some i'm going to have to go with a fuel cell....

Shifter location from the bottom

from above

and again

Trans flush with firewall

another angle

oil pressure sender? located between oil filter and location for mech. fuel pump

loosely on for mock up. real nice piece

questions, comments, suggestions??

 

[1mean02hd]

Yes that is the oil pressure sender. I figured the Tri-Ys wouldn't would because of the bigger bellhousing and the driveshaft. I wouldn't place trans for good yet, bolt the motor to it and make sure everything is accessible before making stuff final.

 

[ChrisR1S]

not to worry, the trans is bolted to the crossmember, but just resting on the framerails. so when i put the block in i just slide as needed

 

[mudcrazy]

Looks like its going to get tight. But hope it all turns out good without to much trouble.

 

[Tony Raine]

shifter location isn't as bad as I thought it would be. doesn't look like much trimming needs to be done there.

looking great so far!

i like that trans crossmember. too bad my mount is different, i'm going to have to go custom

 

[Downey]

i bet your tranny will come forward another inch or 2

 

[ChrisR1S]

shifter location isn't as bad as I thought it would be. doesn't look like much trimming needs to be done there.

looking great so far!

i like that trans crossmember. too bad my mount is different, i'm going to have to go custom

you're using a NP435 like me correct? I'm using a new ranger trans mount; it bolted right up!

i bet your tranny will come forward another inch or 2

That'll be my luck! hmmm.. i havent even checked to see about the drive shaft but im sure ill need a shorter one. anyone know if the lengths of a shortbox and longbed driveshaft are different? research time...

 

[Tony Raine]

i have an advance adapters kit between the np435 and dana 20. it uses the mounts from an early bronco (66-77). kind of a goofy design, but it shouldn't be too hard to re-create.

 

[JoeyB]

How did you get the passenger motor mount out? The space is so tight I cannot get a wrench of any sort into the space.

 

[ChrisR1S]

How did you get the passenger motor mount out? The space is so tight I cannot get a wrench of any sort into the space.

MAN! I swear that's been the hardest part of the swap was removing mounts without cutting tools. Persistence. Get different length adapters and some swivels an stay at it. I say in the engine bay between the firewall an crossmember an did it. An yeah I'm a tiny kid! Lmao. But if you have access to a power outlet I'd cut em out

 

[JoeyB]

Thanks for the reply. I was in Knoxville today and went by James Duff and talked to them. They are some pretty cool cats. They said lift the front passenger wheel off the ground so the suspension would hang and it should give you a little more room. They were right and as you said...persistence was half the battle. It's off and I'm getting ready to install the new mounts I bought from Duff. Again, thanks for your help and keep the photos coming of your build.

 

[ChrisR1S]

Thanks for the reply. I was in Knoxville today and went by James Duff and talked to them. They are some pretty cool cats. They said lift the front passenger wheel off the ground so the suspension would hang and it should give you a little more room. They were right and as you said...persistence was half the battle. It's off and I'm getting ready to install the new mounts I bought from Duff. Again, thanks for your help and keep the photos coming of your build.

no problem man, glad you got the pesky things off! Yeah i was about to tell you to take the wheel off and decompress the beams as if you were removing the coils, lazy on my part haha. Yeah ill actually get to installing my new mounts hopefully friday.

No time for any progress guys. I did however get home to a package from summit! ARP headbolt kit, full ARP engine bolt kit(both kits are 12point and black chromoly), new melling driveshaft for the oil pump, full fel-pro engine gasket kit, and bolts for my engine stand. Still havent sucked it up and decided on a set of headers.