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475,000 mile F7 rear axle


Ok. It looks like this is my best bet for now. I could not find a suitable 4.10.

Remanufactured complete rear axle assembly
8.8 ring gear
3.73 axle ratio
10-inch drum brakes

If I need to, can I still tow a trailer or something with 3.73 ?
Also, it doesn't say what type of differential this is. Is it open........locking...................limited slip? Does it matter much?
I mainly need this truck for transportation or occasional light driving on desert dirt roads
3.73s will haul what the trucks rated for with little issue.

I'd assume the axle is an open diff, but who knows.. might get lucky.
 
Ok. Thanks.
It bothers me that I have to pre-pay the entire cost. And they can't tell me how long it takes to get the product. They say they have '2' available.
This sounds to me, like they have 2 unfinished cores. So once I pay, they keep me waiting forever for the rebuild to finish? I'm waiting for an answer from the supplier on this.
I don't mind pre-paying. But I don't want to be on hold for a long time.

By the way, I know you guys said I have a somewhat limited range of model years to work with. This rear axle will work with at least 1999-2000 Ranger XLT 4.0 V6. And it ranges up to about 2009
 
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I made a checklist today. And I took snapshots of the old rear axle assembly. Could I ask a few more questions please?

1. Someone said it it possible I might need to buy new wheels. I measured and confirmed the bolt pattern on my current wheels is 5X4.5.
And I have stock Ford axle. Can I keep my old 14 inch wheels? Will the old drums fit?

2. Both my old 7.5 axle and this reman 8.8 axle use 10 inch drum brakes. So how come my current drum brake hardware is not considered compatible with the 8.8 I want, when I search
make/model/year range?

3. Does my 7.5 and the 8.8 have the same axle tube diameter? (not axle shaft). Will I have any issues bolting my old stabilizer bar onto the 8.8?

4. Will I need to disconnect the leaf spring shackles where they mount to the frame...................or just the U-bolt plate in the middle?
 
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If the drums are the same size then your wheels should fit. Although I can not speak to compatibility of hardware between 8.8 and 7.5 drums.

You will only need to disconnect the u bolts to drop the axel from the leafs. Leafs can stay on thr frame.
 
Ok. Thanks.

What about bolting the old stabilizer bar (from the previous 7.5 axle tube) to the 8.8 axle tube? Will there be any fitment issues?
 
Ok. I see the 7.5 and the 8.8 for 28-spline are both 2.80 inch axle tube diameter. So the stabilizer bar install should be fine.
 
I can't think of any more pre-install questions. But there is one final concern. I need to do my due diligence because shipping from out-of-state is very expensive.

I looked at the specs again and noticed the 8.8 combined axle length is about 2 inches longer than my 7.5. Have any of you ever had any issues with mounting point and bolt hole alignment with the shocks and leaf springs because of this?

(I know it's already been said that there should not be any issues with these mounting points. Just asking)
 
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While the axle may be different lengths, the frame stays the same width. There will be no problems with bolt alignment.
 
Is the rear axle housing between my 7.5 and the 8.8 the same length from back to the pinion flange? Does the 8.8 pinion flange stick out more than the 7.5?
Any chance I would have to somehow shorten the driveshaft to make it fit? I know a few of you said mating both flanges might raise minor issues. But could I also run into major hurdles with mating the axle companion flange and the driveshaft flange?
 
I talked to a representative at the company that sells the remanufactured complete axle assembly today. He says if I attempt to purchase the 8.8 assembly, they will look up the VIN and cancel the purchase because my make/model is technically not compatible with it. It doesn't matter that it is known to be a successful replacement solution in the do-it-yourself community. I guess they're at least being honest, and they're just trying to avoid a potential consumer dispute.

I swore I would never again go to a service garage. But if I can't find anything else, A mechanic can rebuild from a 7.5/4.10 kit and I can keep what I have. I can also try the junkyard again. And hopefully have a plan in place for my April 6 vacation target date.

Hey, By the way, Thank you guys for your help. I will stay in touch.
 
I talked to a representative at the company that sells the remanufactured complete axle assembly today. He says if I attempt to purchase the 8.8 assembly, they will look up the VIN and cancel the purchase because my make/model is technically not compatible with it. It doesn't matter that it is known to be a successful replacement solution in the do-it-yourself community. I guess they're at least being honest, and they're just trying to avoid a potential consumer dispute.

I swore I would never again go to a service garage. But if I can't find anything else, A mechanic can rebuild from a 7.5/4.10 kit and I can keep what I have. I can also try the junkyard again. And hopefully have a plan in place for my April 6 vacation target date.

Hey, By the way, Thank you guys for your help. I will stay in touch.

.. just enter the vin of a truck that has an 8.8
 
I can't submit another VIN. The purchase would be through my employer. They already have my VIN and make/model/year in the system. They monitor this to make sure I am not giving my employee discount to a friend. And if I ever made a warranty claim, they would ask why I submitted a false VIN if it even made it that far.
 
Can't you just say you bought another Ranger that needs an 8.8. And give them a different vin?
 
At this point, it might be a good idea to go the route of a rebuild from a reputable mechanic. Do your research and find a good one. If you can keep the 4.10 ratio in the rear, you won't be in trouble when you get the transfer case fixed and can't use 4wd (if you get a 3.73.)
 

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