4.56 gears in a 7.5 with a lockrite

[MikeG]

Mazda dealer tried the same crap on me, but when I took the oil filter off at the first change it was Motorcraft 910s...... so much for "official mazda parts"

 

[Dirtman]

Moog.

 

[scotts90ranger]

On a 7.5" you have to grind a tooth on even 4.10's to get the pin out... I had to grind a fair amount of a tooth or two for my 5.13's in my 8.8 to get my aussie locker in but it didn't hit the contact patch so I stopped freaking out... The Yukon Grizzly locker I have in now the half pin deal is just to hold the C clips in apparently and it would have fit without trimming I think...

 

[BlackBII]

Here's a pic of my 7.5 with 4.56's and a solid pin

 

[ecgreen]

Here's a pic of my 7.5 with 4.56's and a solid pin

Very helpful, thanks!

 

[ecgreen]

Has anyone tried to use the notched pin from the regular diff in place of the lockrite pin? Would it give me enough room to get the c-clips in?

Signed -> Your mikey-mouse build guy

 

[Dirtman]

The lockright specifically says NOT to use a notched cross pin in the manual. I do not know specifically why they warn not to use it but I would assume there is a good reason.

 

[ecgreen]

The lockright specifically says NOT to use a notched cross pin in the manual. I do not know specifically why they warn not to use it but I would assume there is a good reason.

Yeah, looks like I am grinding. Its at the shop right now and my gear guy doesnt want to do the actual grinding, which I totally get. I'll just take it slow and get it done.

 

[Curious Hound]

When using the Lock-rite or Aussie locker, the cross pin transfers force to the side pieces to wedge them against their mating parts and lock them together. Won’t work right with a notched cross pin.

 

[ecgreen]

When using the Lock-rite or Aussie locker, the cross pin transfers force to the side pieces to wedge them against their mating parts and lock them together. Won’t work right with a notched cross pin.

That makes perfect sense. Would you guys remove the whole carrier to do the job and keep more metal particles out of the diff?

 

[Dirtman]

I would just use masking tape and something like saran wrap or foil to carefully cover everything but the small spot you'll be grinding rather than pull the whole carrier. Then clean it good with brake clean when you are done.

 

[Curious Hound]

That makes perfect sense. Would you guys remove the whole carrier to do the job and keep more metal particles out of the diff?

I did mine in place. But I covered everything as perfectly as I could to keep grinding dust from getting in bearings and stuff. Then I cleaned it all out with brake cleaner and rags to get all the dust out of the diff housing.

 

[4x4junkie]

When I ground mine using a Dremel, I put a shop vac hose immediately next to where I was grinding. This, in addition to packing the areas around the diff with rags made a big difference in keeping the grinding dust out of the diff housing.

 

[ecgreen]

When I ground mine using a Dremel, I put a shop vac hose immediately next to where I was grinding. This, in addition to packing the areas around the diff with rags made a big difference in keeping the grinding dust out of the diff housing.

Do you remember what bit you used on your Dremel?

 

[Curious Hound]

Do you remember what bit you used on your Dremel?

I would recommend one of those grinding stones. Gear teeth are hardened. Might tear up a carbide cutter.