I have done a bunch of these and have not had one leak. It's pretty hard to misalign it if you don't remove the timing cover and you just drive it in until it stops.
If you do remove the timing cover, I drive the seal in as usual and install the cover with the bolts just finger tight, then push the balancer back on and just slightly into the seal. Wiggle the timing cover around or tap it with a hammer until it seems pretty happy, then tighten the bolts that go up through the oil pan first to just snug, then the rest that go into the block, then retorque all of them. The balancer acts as your alignment tool. I have not had one leak.
Rear mains, if you can help me get those to seal up every time, I'd be real happy. I have about a 50% success rate there, hate those bastards.
The front crank seal tool sets the depth of the seal within the cover....
Hammering till it stops?
Would imagine it will hammer past the cover edge & bottom out against the block???
Thats the only thing keeping it from falling out thru the back of the cover....
Rear main seal.
Always use a ford seal with the metal crank wear sleeve....
Use the ford installation tool, always....
Take the sleeve off the seal so you can lube the seal with a light film of oil & reassemble.
Always put a light film of red anaerobic sealer on the metal wear ring
& also on the entire outer edge of the actual seal where it gets inset to the block.
Never had one leak, or VERY rare....
Think I had to heat & pry off 2 of them, ever,
just to reseal the rear crank cap, as that was the source of a few leaks.
Theres also a science on how to reseal the 4.0 OHV oil pan worm gasket.
Thats another science, on how & where to properly strategically place silicone.
Too much to spell out here though...
