4.0 SOHC removal

[JJMaine]

I tried map gas on it right before it rounded off because it was being stubborn. I'll see if I can find a way to get it off without ruining the stud. Worse case I'll go to town and try to find some extractor sockets and sawzall blades...

Everything on this truck has come apart easier than any vehicle I've ever owned. Maine doesn't have rust free vehicles like this haha (it came from AZ).

 

[JJMaine]

I pounded a socket on there and got the nut to back off a couple of "cracks" and there's not tension on the nut anymore (bracket rattles around freely). Should I just pick up a stud extractor socket and try that now?

 

[sgtsandman]

I pounded a socket on there and got the nut to back off a couple of "cracks" and there's not tension on the nut anymore (bracket rattles around freely). Should I just pick up a stud extractor socket and try that now?

The end of the stud looks to be in pretty good condition. Try a socket on that. That is technically how they are supposed to be installed using that before you use the nut to install the down pipe on the catalytic converter.

You might even be able to completely remove the nut with a box wrench while holding the stud with a socket, maybe.

 

[JJMaine]

A stud socket? These studs are a bit different than the ones on the cylinder heads. It's just two flat sides instead of the star shape so I'm not sure a regular stud socket will work. It's worth a try. That nut is completely rounded off I don't think turning it is an option anymore haha.

HF has extractor sockets but they aren't deep well so I don't think they'll work anyway. Going to run to town tonight as. I need a long 1/2 breaker bar to get the engine mounts knocked loose through the wheel wells. My wobble sockets arenet deep enough and a wobble extension on an 18mm deep socket is too high. When I go grab that I'll get a stud socket and some metal sawzall blades one way or another it's coming off there. I'll try to fix the manifold later with a new stud or I'll replace it I guess.

In better news, the creeper works great! And I'm glad I picked up this flexible ratchet because I don't think I'd have gotten that top starter bolt without it. I've been wrenching for the last 15 years with only a 123 piece Stanley socket and ratchet kit. It's been great but I needed some better gear eventually anyway. Nows the time!

 

[sgtsandman]

A stud socket? These studs are a bit different than the ones on the cylinder heads. It's just two flat sides instead of the star shape so I'm not sure a regular stud socket will work. It's worth a try. That nut is completely rounded off I don't think turning it is an option anymore haha.

HF has extractor sockets but they aren't deep well so I don't think they'll work anyway. Going to run to town tonight as. I need a long 1/2 breaker bar to get the engine mounts knocked loose through the wheel wells. My wobble sockets arenet deep enough and a wobble extension on an 18mm deep socket is too high. When I go grab that I'll get a stud socket and some metal sawzall blades one way or another it's coming off there. I'll try to fix the manifold later with a new stud or I'll replace it I guess.

In better news, the creeper works great! And I'm glad I picked up this flexible ratchet because I don't think I'd have gotten that top starter bolt without it. I've been wrenching for the last 15 years with only a 123 piece Stanley socket and ratchet kit. It's been great but I needed some better gear eventually anyway. Nows the time!

View attachment 135376View attachment 135377

For some reason, I remembered them being hex rather than two flats. That could be an issue.

If no luck on the stud socket and you end up having to cut it, see if you can at least break the stud loose and get it to turn. Drilling out a stud so you can use a screw extractor is not a fun time, even with a really long drill bit. I had one snap flush with the manifold flange. It was no a good day but I did eventually get it out.

 

[JJMaine]

Sounds good thanks! Do I need a thin walled 13mm socket for the torque converter bolts? I've got it lined up perfectly in the starter hole and CANNOT get my socket on there

 

[sgtsandman]

Sounds good thanks! Do I need a thin walled 13mm socket for the torque converter bolts? I've got it lined up perfectly in the starter hole and CANNOT get my socket on there

I have a manual. So no idea. The 2019 was my first Ranger with an automatic. Everything else had a stick.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Sounds good thanks! Do I need a thin walled 13mm socket for the torque converter bolts? I've got it lined up perfectly in the starter hole and CANNOT get my socket on there

I’ve always used a short 3/8” drive socket and 3” extension. There’s a small window where you can get it lined up to work and I let the motor cam over until the extension is against the plate. Never had a problem breaking them free by hand like that with a 3/8” ratchet

 

[JJMaine]

I'll go under and try again but I couldn't get my socket to seat on the nut

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Also, on that exhaust nut, maybe try a nut splitter on it? Old tech but I’ve saved a few bolts and studs over the years by splitting the nut off

 

[JJMaine]

Nice I'll grab one of those. I'd never heard of it and had to look it up. Quick (dumb) question. Those torque converter bolts do require a 13mm socket right? I've been up and down for the last 2 hours inching the crankshaft round and round trying to get my socket on there. Makes you wonder how the hell I'm going to put it back together when the time comes.

All my buddies live 1/2 hour away and am trying to wait until I am ready to pull the motor to ask for help or I'd have someone here turning the crank for me. Can I undo the bell housing bolts and leave the torque converter nuts for last? Then I could do those tomorrow when help arrives right before the hoist?