4.0 SOHC head gaskets/timing chains

[JJMaine]

Do I have to run it until the thermostat opens before I can fit more coolant in it?

 

[JJMaine]

I let run up to temp but it just keeps dribbling coolant out of the radiator? A few bubbles but mostly coolant. I have the heater on full blast as well.

 

[SenorNoob]

Sounds like it's full then. Fill the expansion tank, take it for a drive to get everything warmed up to temp, then let it set long enough to completely cool down.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Yes, the fluid is expanding with temperature change.

 

[Uncle Gump]

You the man JJ...

I just want to commend you. You took it right to the problem... stared it right in the eye... and it took your whoopin.

Let her warm up a few times... double check fluids. Do a couple short trips... double check things... then just drive like a boomer.

 

[JJMaine]

Couldn't have done it without you guys I thank you all. For that matter all of the guys on this thread are the ones that have helped me and answered my questions from day one. If I'm not mistaken, Uncle Gump was the first one to respond to my first question (probably a dumb question haha).

I gave the upper radiator hose a few squishes and that seemed to wake it up. Sucked down a few more quarts after that and then equalized. I'll do as you say and keep checking and filling as necessary.

 

[JJMaine]

You are basically looking to prime the system. So, don't over think it. If you oiled things while you assembled them, even if the priming isn't effective, you should have enough protection from the assembly oil to minimize any potential damage to the bearings.

Regardless, there is always going to be some break in wear on a rebuild and you are going to want to change the oil and filter pretty quickly after first start. About 200 - 500 miles. Again at 1,000 miles. Again at 3,000 miles. Then go to standard oil changes. You don't want to cheap out on oil filters for this either. Get the oil filter with the smallest micron filtering you can if you don't normally use such filters. K&N, Purolator Pure One or Boss, Mobile 1, and a few others generally are going to be the finest you can get. Motorcraft should be good as well. After the break in, you can run whatever filter you like.

I used Motorcraft oil and filter. I will probably change the oil a bit sooner than normal and probably going to go to 3,000 mile intervals instead of 5,000 considering how much sludge was in my oil pan. Not sure that was my fault though, I think one of the previous owners was a little slack.

 

[sgtsandman]

I used Motorcraft oil and filter. I will probably change the oil a bit sooner than normal and probably going to go to 3,000 mile intervals instead of 5,000 considering how much sludge was in my oil pan. Not sure that was my fault though, I think one of the previous owners was a little slack.

A thing to consider, not that there is anything wrong with using Motorcraft oil and filters. Auto parts stores sell synthetic oil and usually a good filter as a package for a pretty decent price. Some even offer the Motorcraft filter as an option in the package now.

Synthetic blend tends to not have a significant advantage over pure conventional oil. Motorcraft oil filters are just as good as K&N, Purolator Pure One or Boss, and Mobil 1 filters. So, it's a zero gain or loss there.

The engine was designed with a synthetic blend in mind. So there is no harm in running it, but you may be able to get the on sale synthetic cheaper and keep the engine internals cleaner going that route.