4.0 engine timing

[F150hybred]

Anybody???

 

[Bob Ayers]

If your referring to the gray one that located near the firewall on the same harness as the diagnostics plug, then I know where it is. Now, if I unplug that and things sort them selves out... what's next??? Do I just leave it out or do I need to replace it?

Did you try this?

 

[F150hybred]

Well, I would have... except there is a second spout connector located near the spark control thingie at the pass front of the radiator support. Not sure what one to pull.

 

[F150hybred]

Ok, I managed to figure out what one does what. The pill located @ the diagnostic plug is the correct one. Pulled the other to make sure and the engine running quality went to shit (timing out)... must have been the pill for checking timing. So I pulled the other one and will take it for a "test filight" later today. After pulling the correct pill, I started wondering what they do... so I took my multi meter and measured for resistance. Got 0.1 ohm. Pulled the one for timing and measured it too... just too see. Also 0.1 ohm. I don't know if that's rite, but at least I have something to work on seeing as the both look identical even down to the numbering on each.
For those folowing this... feel free to chime in at any time... and I do mean ANY TIME! The more help, the better as I'm sure any engine doesn't like pinging at any time.

 

[CopyKat]

.
For those folowing this... feel free to chime in at any time... and I do mean ANY TIME! The more help, the better as I'm sure any engine doesn't like pinging at any time.

I already did say my piece.

 

[F150hybred]

And I did look for what you had said, CopyKat. Nothing there. Looks just like it did when it rolled off the assembly line.

 

[MAKG]

Are you using oil? At least conventional oil will enhance detonation (it's a fairly strong octane reducer).

You can try switching to synthetic and seeing if it helps.

How do you know there aren't any vacuum leaks? Carb cleaner on the joints is not enough; not all potential leak sites are accessible.

Does the HEGO sensor read sensibly?

Finally, the MOST COMMON reason for detonation is lugging the engine. Under 1500 RPM on a 4.0L = very bad. Under 2000 RPM = not recommended.

 

[F150hybred]

Um.. yeah. I'm using oil. Only in the crankcase (not too sure what your meaning). As for the vacuum leaks, I did the intake gasket (both upper and lower). I then isolated each vacuum circut and pulled a vacuum on each with a mighty vac. All checked out. As far as the HEGO goes, when I had a code scan done, it was showing they were in proper order and working (and at the time of the code scan, I couldn.t make it ping).
The lugging part, that's not an issue... I drive it like it's stolen most of the time. That skinny peddle is there for a reason yah know! LMAO!

I'm gonna try the unplugged octane pill and see what happens then report... I have a road trip for this weekend where I will be able to give this a try for some time.

 

[MAKG]

"Using" oil means some of it is consumed in the engine.

All engines use some oil, but generally make up the volume with crap (e.g., combustion products). The question here is whether it is more than "normal."

Moderate oil use can cause detonation with no other problems. It doesn't have to be enough to foul the plugs.

 

[F150hybred]

Engine oil consumption would be less than a litre for every 5000 km. (1 quart for 3000 mi). I wasn't too sure what it was you were talking bout there. Thanks for clearing that up.

 

[MAKG]

I'd consider trying a cheap synthetic (e.g., Mobil 1) at the manufacturer-recommended viscosity, with that level of consumption. Not immediately (unless the detonation is driving you nuts), but at the next oil change interval.

HEGO sensors are checked with a voltmeter. OBD-I mixture monitors are VERY rudimentary, and very often do not flip CELs even when out of bounds (negative).

 

[F150hybred]

The sensors (HEGO) were checked with a real time tester (Snap On) while opperating. Voltages were "Within parameters" at the time of testing.

 

[F150hybred]

Well... so far so good. Took it for a haul last night and didn't have any pinging. This weekend will tell the truth. One question though... if removing that pill eliminates the pinging, what's next? Do I just leave it out or is there some repair procedure to follow??

 

[MAKG]

It's a bandaid. There wasn't much point to removing it.

You disabled spark advance. Your mileage is reduced and you're probably coughing up far too much unburned hydrocarbons.

The only thing it does is confirm that the problem is indeed detonation (and not something else like engine knock, solenoid clicking, or valvetrain taps). But you probably knew that anyway.

 

[turbo cat]

check the fuel pressure and fuel pressure regulator. pull thwe vacum line going to the regulatopr to check for fuel in the line. Hook up a fuel gauge to the shrader valve, have you changed your fuel filter in the last few thousand miles? And if no other gimmics are helping pull off the intake and pull the injectors for new ones or get the old ones flow tested and cleaned. or try putting some injector cleaner in the tank. Your truck may be leaning out due to a clogged filter or injector or a failing regulator