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302 and c4 swap question


you really run a 1350 t-case behind a v-8? either way it can't hurt to move the engine/trans forward or back to help with other fitment issues, when its less than $100 to modify both driveshafts
 
you really run a 1350 t-case behind a v-8? either way it can't hurt to move the engine/trans forward or back to help with other fitment issues, when its less than $100 to modify both driveshafts

V8 with a 1350 isn't unheard of, I am going to run a similar setup (but with a V8 C5 instead of a C4)
 
well i have read alot of v8 swap threads and seems the more i read the more unsure and confused i am..lol..to help clear things up , here are my engine trans. choices to date..i havent bought anything yet...i can get a 302 with a 3 speed automatic trans. from a 70's model ford van or i can get the same from a 83 f150 both donors are 2wd .. my 85 ranger is a 2wd 5speed manaul trans with a 2.8.. i was going to get the one that has the most parts that i can use with little mods as posible... my truck came out with 14'' tires but ive been running 15'' all weather tires (not mud tires) so my truck sits up a little higher than it did but it does not have any lift..im not interested in any kinda lift as i like it the way it is now..i dont have a problem with using the correct motor mounts and making engine mount plates to locate the engine forward or backwards as i can and will mod the drive shaft if nessasary..im just wanting a plug and play with little mods as i can..i know there will be some mods. and im cool with that..i was going to buy mounts as per what the tech libary say but i was going to make my own plates to locate the engine to were i can use a explore radiator and the belts/pulleys and water pump that came with the 302 engine..i was wanting to use my power steering pump and i was going to buy the shorty headers from headman as per the jegs catalog to fit my ranger conversion..right now im just needing to know what needs to be moded as far as trans. i know nothing about transmissions so the engine i buy will have a automatic bolted to it and so the bellhousing and starter motor,flexplate and torq coverter will be with the engine i buy and that is what i was going to use .. sorry for the long read..just trying to figure a game plan before i spend a butt load of money..
 
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I'm doing the same swap this spring in my 84 2wd.
We can share notes... I'm using a 289 and C4 combo in my 4cyl 4 speed truck.

FrankBoss
 
lol..well im just now concidering this v6 to v8 mod so i dont have any note per say , just what i,ve read so far...my goal is to buy a engine and c4 auto. and put it in my truck with little mods as possable.. most of what i,ve read pertain to newer rangers with 4wd manual trans swaps with lift kits..im not at all interested in a 4wd or any kind of lift kit..im looking for the old school motor swap/cruiser/daily driver..i have 2 donors that i can get the engines and trans. i want from but i need to know which ones..im not going to be able to find in my area a ford car with a 302 and a c4trans with a small bellhousing and 157 tooth flexplate.. i got $1500 cash budget right now and the rest i'll have to save up for..
 
i have read these sections a few times and its my understanding that i can use either the 83 f150 engine and 3speed automatic or the late 70,s model ford van v8 engine and 3speed automatic trans as those 2 models offer the smaller bellhouseing...is this corect.. i will be going to see the donors this weekend so what should i look for to make sure i get what i need..the 83 f150 is still running and being driven so i can drive it and hear the engine run.. the van motor was pulled out after van was wrecked.. i was told by my uncle they both run good..
 
does anyone have close up pic of the heater box that has been moded to clear the valve cover.also pics and measurements of the engine plates to be used with the motor mounts from a 2.9v6
 
does anyone have pics and measurements of the engine plates to be used with the motor mounts from a 2.9v6

most guys use the convertible fox body mustang motor-mounts, it is just a matter of drilling at that point
 
does anyone have close up pic of the heater box that has been moded to clear the valve cover.also pics and measurements of the engine plates to be used with the motor mounts from a 2.9v6

The top of the second link has pics of diminsions and the installed product using V6 mounts.

I figured mine were 25 years old and not designed for a V8... so really they probably would at least need changed before I close to doubled the torque output. I went with the Foxbody convertable/SN-95 mounts, they are a much stronger looking mount.

You don't really drill as much as you notch a slot. As the engine is lowered straight down with the stud sticking out a an angle to the crossmember at roughly the same angle, you need some slop in there so the mount can come to rest against the crossmember

There was a pic on here (do a search) of a guy that remolded the problem area of the heaterbox with a heatgun and a oil filter, almost looked original. As far as I know it is really only a problem in a A/C truck.
 
well i might be lucky..my truck has no ac and as far as the engine mounts, if i use mounts out of a 87 or 88 with a 2.9, i could bolt them in the exact location as the 2.8 mounts and make plates that bolt to the 302 with hole drilled so i can move the engine back for more room for the radiator/fan/v-belt pullies and mabe be able to use the waterpump and fan blade thats already on the new engine..i think i can cut out some metal from the firewall tunnel area and reshape it and weld metal back in to gain more room..i know that would move the trans. back and change the driveshaft lenth but i figured i would just move the trans. cross member back and rebolt it to the fram or weld it back to except the trans. mount..sounds like im gonna need the room up front and room in the tunnel area anyway..
 
well i have read alot of v8 swap threads and seems the more i read the more unsure and confused i am..lol..to help clear things up , here are my engine trans. choices to date..i havent bought anything yet...i can get a 302 with a 3 speed automatic trans. from a 70's model ford van or i can get the same from a 83 f150 both donors are 2wd .. my 85 ranger is a 2wd 5speed manaul trans with a 2.8.. i was going to get the one that has the most parts that i can use with little mods as posible... my truck came out with 14'' tires but ive been running 15'' all weather tires (not mud tires) so my truck sits up a little higher than it did but it does not have any lift..im not interested in any kinda lift as i like it the way it is now..i dont have a problem with using the correct motor mounts and making engine mount plates to locate the engine forward or backwards as i can and will mod the drive shaft if nessasary..im just wanting a plug and play with little mods as i can..i know there will be some mods. and im cool with that..i was going to buy mounts as per what the tech libary say but i was going to make my own plates to locate the engine to were i can use a explore radiator and the belts/pulleys and water pump that came with the 302 engine..i was wanting to use my power steering pump and i was going to buy the shorty headers from headman as per the jegs catalog to fit my ranger conversion..right now im just needing to know what needs to be moded as far as trans. i know nothing about transmissions so the engine i buy will have a automatic bolted to it and so the bellhousing and starter motor,flexplate and torq coverter will be with the engine i buy and that is what i was going to use .. sorry for the long read..just trying to figure a game plan before i spend a butt load of money..

Ok, first off, you're not going to be able to use the Explorer radiator. It simply doesn't fit your truck. Even if it would, it would be jammed up against the waterpump pulley of either of the two motors you're looking at. You won't be able to move the motor far enough back to do what you think you want to do. (this is the kicker with Ranger swaps, it's not the width of the engine that's the problem, but the overall length) Either get a motor with the shorter FEAD to start with and use with a 90-93 4.0 radiator or be prepared to do surgery to the core support to use whatever radiator you want to clear whatever FEAD you choose. As for your choice of headers (Hedman 89500) you're going to find like most of us did that the right side leaves something to be desired as the collector dumps straight down into the axle under the truck. 88400's are a better choice as are Shelby Tri-Y's (65-66 Stangs) If you want a simpler swap, look fora 5.0 from one of the following: 88-93 T-Bird/Cougar, 94-95 Stang, 96-2001 Explorer/Mountaineer. All these have the shorter FEAD that makes life easier in a Ranger swap. The first two have the correct oilpan for a Ranger, some of the S'ploders and Mountaineers do.
 
I run a 302 with a C4 and no body lift. I set the motor as far back as I possibly could to give me the space to run a mechanical fan. I made a plate for the transmission that mounts the stock transmission mount and left the cross-member in the original position. I took my old 2 piece drive shaft down and had the C4 yoke mounted on it. The Yoke and drive-shaft work only cost me $65 so it was well worth it for me. I have the small bell housing/flex plate and it is tight but do-able. I did flatten the seams on the firewall to make it easier to get the bolts in and out. I wish I had access to a welder and I would of just moved the cross-member mounting plates forward instead of the plate I used. I cut into the core support and stuffed the bigger radiator farther forward so I ended up with about 2 inches clearance between the flex fan and radiator. I used the Hedman headers but mine didn't dump into the frame or axle but they did dump straight down and I had to get a short Mustang starter.

88 XLT 2-WD
 
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well i might be lucky..my truck has no ac and as far as the engine mounts, if i use mounts out of a 87 or 88 with a 2.9, i could bolt them in the exact location as the 2.8 mounts and make plates that bolt to the 302

You'd do better using the 85-93 Stang 'Vert mounts and bolt em down directly to the crossmember, using new slots cut to fit the studs on the bottom of the mounts. When that's done, you can drill another hole per side and add a second bolt to secure the mounts. ( I added two per side)
 

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