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3.0l SHO Motor


If anyone wants a SHO motor I can get 4 of em, $200 each. The catch is I keep one for my escort wagon, lol.
 
keeping a really revvy engine "up"
becomes w-a-y too much like hard work...

AD

see and thats exactly what i like about the SHO. anyone can jump in an engine with torque, stomp the gas and be off...but i like to feel like im doing more than just sitting there with my thumb up my butt while im driving. downshifting to pass on the highway is one of the most exhilarating experiences available to me on a daily basis...and you just dont get that on big torque motors. i guess thats why i would still choose my weaker 3.0 over a more powerful 4.0 if i could do it all over again.
 
has any one done a sho swap in a ranger...i have a 2.3t svo i was going to drop in my 90gt ranger(i made it a gt myself) but the sho swap seems a little more fun
 
I miss my SHO I had a 94 opel frost flawless 5 speed SHO. lowerd and stiffened the suspension slightly. It was a dream to drive handled great had good power. rev match down shifting to 3rd on the highway damn! I would still have it today if it wernt for the SOB uninsured POS that rear ended me at a stop light and totaled it! Friend has it at his house gave it to him he is looking for one with a clean body and blown motor to put it in.
drv_side.jpg
 
the 3.4 (V-8 SHO) is, in my opinion, a crap motor. it has a tendency to spin the cam sprokets, which causes valve/piston damage due to it being an interference engine (the 3.0 is not interference). the 3.0 has a stronger iron block, a stronger bottom end which is capable of handling over 400HP in stock form, much better aftermarket support, and looks a lot cooler. on top of that the v-8 barely produces more power than the v-6 (235hp vs. 220hp).

the 3.4 uses a standard duratec bellhousing bolt pattern.

has any one done a sho swap in a ranger...

see post #10 of this thread.
 
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Yes, The Mitsu's and the TKs could be bolted to the Sho but, It wouldn't be advisable. The M5r1 is going to be pushed to its limits.

It's Not "horsepower" that breaks drivetrain components, but "torque"

And the SHO doesn't make as much torque as a 4.0OHV engine

I think even a stock 3.0 gearbox would be "fine" behind a SHO engine
for durability, butyou'd likely be happier with the gears from a 4.0 trans
for the different gear ratios (the 4.0 M5OD-R1 is essentially a "Close ratio" trans)

BTW, don't refer to our Mazda M5OD-R1's in "shorthand"
because there is another completely different transmission
that IS an "M5R1"

what mutant said. if you find one of the rare detachable 3.0 bellhousings, you could bolt it to an FM or TK..but i wouldnt. the only ranger SHO swap ive seen used a T5 (mustang) trans...it would be interesting to see how the M5OD handles 220HP...

Again, it's not the "power" but rather the "Torque"

Stock 4cyl Mazda's have withstood being behind 2.3Turbo's
which when "tuned up" make the SHO motor look worthless and weak.

You can easily tune up a 2.3T to the mid-250's (HP) and
they already make far more torque stock than a SHO engine does....

Remember, Wicked_sludge, it is torque that breaks things. The M5OD will handle it just fine until you dump the clutch at about 5000 rpm. Then it is a 100% gauranteed failure.

You made me remember a detail I forgot, it's torque AND rotating inertia. Dump the clutch at 6grand and you'd likely snap the input shaft, the rest of the trans would be undammaged

Hey ive built 3 of the normal ford 3.0 motors now ive left the block and rotating assembly stock im jw if any one has any ideas if how to push out 250hp and 240 trq just on bolts ons without breakin the bank im roundin out at about 205 on the one i just got rid of stock it was 168 and i only spent about 450 on it. Any ideas?

Get a grip and don't insult my intelligence.

You are making 205 out of a vulcan without forced induction like I'm the Queen of England.

It takes Dual Overhead Cams, four valves per cylinder AND
spinning the engine to just shy of 7-grand to make 220hp
what makes you think a 2Valve per cylinder pushrod turd
is gonna make 205 without a nitrous bottle?

As for the arguement about power, horsepower is horsepower.

two vehicles with the same power and proper geaqring for the specific engines will be equally fast.

the other advantage to the 3.8 Split-Port is that NOBODY is looking for them there are atleast a dozen in each of three junkyards and they are always in the junkyard for the same reason.... The vehicle they are in has a dead automatic trans.

yes, a peaky engine can be "fun" if you know how to use it
and you have the inclination to use it, but trust me it gets old
faster than you will.

BTW, an engine that you MUST keep spinning at 4000rpm plus simply so the vehicle keeps moving attracts attention from all the people you don't want... thieves and police.

I long ago learned to be more "discrete"... you can have a car that will do 140mph until you run out of gas, but if every time you go 3mph over the posted limit there's a cop with a ticket book and an itchy pen hand you get to feeling stupid faster than I can type the word "jackass"...

My only problem was that the local cops where I lived didn't stay stupid...



AD
 
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Will the 3.8L split port bolt to a 4.0L trans or does the 3.8L have the V-8 bellhousing bolt pattern?
 
i had always heard that it had a SBF bellhousing pattern, but according to wiki, thats only the rear wheel drive versions, and FWD engines supposedly share the vulcan bolt pattern. i cant imagine them casting TWO different blocks for the same engine...unless there are other major differences between FWD and RWD blocks...:dntknw:

either way is easy enough to overcome. use the T-5 that came bolted to the engine in the mustang (for 2wd trucks anyway) if you need a SBF pattern. or use a 3.0 M5OD from a ranger if you need a vulcan pattern.
 
I have seen both blocks and they do have FWD or RWD cast right into the side of the block. A fwd 3.8 block could be bolted dirrectly to a Ranger 3.0 trans. I don't know if there is a flywheel that would work though.
205hp is well within reason for a naturally aspired 3.0. Nobody makes the proper parts though.
 
its not that nobody makes them, its that they are way ungodly expensive :D

theres a price to be payed for uniqueness...if i could afford it, you bet id be driving a 3.3 stroker running about 20 PSI :drool:
 
I firmly believe that the intake manifold is the biggest restriction on the Vulcan. The improvements made through the years are to slight. The typical Ford inadequate exhaust ports are a problem as well. The vulcan I put together is back on my garage floor with a spun rod bearing. I plan on doing extensive head and intake work to be put on another bottom end. As usual though, I have to many project so this one may never come to be.
 
shoot if you werent so far away id drive my ass down there and kick start that project for you.

i agree that the vulcans plenum is pitifully inadiquate. i would love to see what a custom intake plenum and some HEAVY port work would do for that motor.
 

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