sho motor swap?

[li7in6]

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AD

I'm not arguing for the SHO motor in particular. Both of my example engine's were hypothetical for the purpose of the example (motor A was the baseline and motor B simply made power/torque and had a redline at 25% higher rpm). I'm simply refuting the notion that you can dismiss a motor becasue it makes X amount of torque at Y rpm. compared to another motor. Engine's have different rpm ranges that they operate at. Engine X can make more torque at a lower rpm while motor Y makes less power at a higher rpm and has a higher redline thus a rpm to rpm comparison is not correct, as the higher rpm motor can be geared to a greater extent.

I went over the availability of gearing in my original post. As for reduced strength of different sized cogs in a gearing assembly. Typically you strengthen the assembly by reducing the load the shafts gears see and increasing their operating rpm. The upper limit for shaft/gear loading is much lower than the upper limit for shaft/gear speed.

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You're obviously very attached to the SHO motor, but there what you are fond of, then there's reality. A motor that makes peak torque at near 5000rpm is pretty clearly not an ideal engine that you would use offroad. Unless you're looking at high speed desert running.

As for you're notion that engineering doesn't represent what is possible in real life, i find that laughable. Engineering (even as mild as figuring powerbands and ratios for a motor swap) are essential for putting together a vehicle that isn't a waste of money and time. An SHO motor CAN WORK, no question. The question is HOW WELL, Allan's point is there are better options than the SHO motor.

 

[RangerSVT]

I seriously doubt AllanD is an engineer (if you are, I stand corrected), he is just very knowledgeable about RBV engines and possible engine compinations. As far as the SHO motor, it may make considerable more HP than the RBV engine, but they did not put it in the RBV's for a reason, its not practical. It might make a good swap in something like a 2WD ranger looking to be a street sleeper or a track truck, but in a 5K 4X4 RBV that uses most of its power under 3K RPM, u would have to stroke the SHO and put a super small turbo on it and run real low gears just to make it useable...It can be used as is, but reality is you would have to do the swap, swap a tranny, then re-gear both axles...VS V8 swap or other engine swap that is more economical and easier. Now if you have the money to blow and just want to do a SHO swap, by all means, go ahead. The TRS members that have posted here are just trying to help you do the easiest and most economical swap and be the most efficient swap.
SVT

 

[AllanD]

Theoretical doesn't always equal reality because of various factors
that are overlooked.

My point is that the supposed glamor of the SHO isn't worth
the aggrevation.

and in general in regards to the SHO? The bloom is definatly gone off that rose...

It has been bettered by other engines that make more power and don't
need to rev as much to do it.

There are MANY other engines that make the same horsepower
in a more accessable part of the rpm range.

Like the arguement at the top when I suggest the 215hp "split-port"
3.8 (5hp less than the 220hp SHO) yet it makes it's power lower than
the SHO makes it's torque.

Yes, power is power, and 220hp is better than 215, but 215 you can use
right away with common gears is far better than needing to drive on the highway
in low range to find the engine's torque.

Hell even the Duratec engine that kinda replaced the SHO doesn't need
to rev as much to make it's 200hp

Some complain of a 5.0HO being "too peaky" for offroad use and it makes
peak torque at 3400 and peak power by 5200.

AD

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I went over the availability of gearing in my original post. As for reduced strength of different sized cogs in a gearing assembly. Typically you strengthen the assembly by reducing the load the shafts gears see and increasing their operating rpm. The upper limit for shaft/gear loading is much lower than the upper limit for shaft/gear speed.

Actually, regarding rear axles as you get lower gearing the pinion gets smaller (weaker) and the ring gear gets thicker. For examble a 3.08 gearset is stronger than a 4.56 gearset because it has a larger diameter pinion.

Personally for 220hp if I can't have a 5.0 I would rather have a 2.3T that bolts in and has a huge parts source... and still isn't that common of a RBV swap.

 

[Tony Raine]

people can laugh at engineers all they want. without them, we wouldn't have this stuff to begin with

 

[AllanD]

The basic truth is that people always say they want "power"
because they don't KNOW that what they really want is torque.

And yeah while you can take power and use reduction gears
to convert it into torque (But power is still power)
an engine that doesn't need to rev to make a given ammount of power
is superior to another engine that has to rev to make that power.

Particularly if there isn't some major advantage in "package size"
or weight

Hey, the reason I want a DOHC4.6 is because of another factor...
The early 4.6DOHC is ALL aluminum, it uses stagered cam timing to
it's two seperate intake ports which are fed by a dual path intake system
and if you can keep the engine on the low volume high velocity economy
ports they can get amazing mileage.
Yeah, a lot of that is the aerodynamics of the car, but if I can have
that 280hp, and get mileage equal to that I've gotten with an OHV 4.0
I consider it a win, because frankly 100hp more than I have now is
definatly a "win".

I'd never consider the aggrevation of a SHO swap for a mere 50-60hp over what a 4.0OHV can do.

Particularly with an engine that makes LESS torque.

Hey atleast a 5.0 makes an extra 75ft/lb along with that extra 60hp over a 4.0OHV.


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[trail B2]

power

Gorgeous sand rail those are really fun and I bet that thing is A rocket we used to fantasize about that motor in A sand rail when we ran pinto motor.Really torque is for closed or tight areas plus more throttle control and usually better mileage.High winding hi horsepower motors are good for covering alot of ground and open area like drags and sand rails

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Just drop in a 351W, with a good 4bbl and your choice of headers.

later,
Dustin