3.0 Timing Help

[eloyc]

Any chance you set #1 to TDC exhaust? Regardless you should get some pops and bangs. You sure the injectors are firing? If you pull a plug after trying to start it, is it wet with gas? Have you tried spraying some flammable liquid into the throttle body to see if you get anything then?

Yes I've tried all that and still nothing. Checked for spark multiple ways, tested injector wiring with test noid, I did another cold compression test, all spark plugs out and got about 130ish on each cylinder. I might not be getting fuel pressure so checking that next.

 

[Silas Mc]

Any chance you set #1 to TDC exhaust? Regardless you should get some pops and bangs. You sure the injectors are firing? If you pull a plug after trying to start it, is it wet with gas? Have you tried spraying some flammable liquid into the throttle body to see if you get anything then?

I second that. I would try a little starter fluid. Then at least you could narrow it down.

 

[RobWigglezz]

Yes I've tried all that and still nothing. Checked for spark multiple ways, tested injector wiring with test noid, I did another cold compression test, all spark plugs out and got about 130ish on each cylinder. I might not be getting fuel pressure so checking that next.

One of your earlier posts said you pushed the Schrader valve on the fuel rail and it flowed out. It should do more than just flow out. It should spray out pretty good if you just turned the key making the fuel pump prime.

A quick spritz of starting fluid into the throttle body will give you a clue.

 

[eloyc]

One of your earlier posts said you pushed the Schrader valve on the fuel rail and it flowed out. It should do more than just flow out. It should spray out pretty good if you just turned the key making the fuel pump prime.

A quick spritz of starting fluid into the throttle body will give you a clue.

I did some sprays and nothing happened, there was no change. It just kept cranking normaly

 

[RobWigglezz]

I did some sprays and nothing happened, there was no change. It just kept cranking normaly

If you had spark and a mis timed engine, starter fluid should make it have an uneven crank because its firing and working against itself as well as a few pops.

Maybe your plugs loose spark when threaded into the heads? Did you double/triple check all your grounds are connected to the firewall, block, and heads?

 

[eloyc]

Yes, everything is connected

 

[RobWigglezz]

Original post said you replaced a bunch of parts. Besides head gaskets, what all did you replace?

What I'm getting at is you left the bottom end alone right? Timing cover didn't come off? So as long as you got the distributor in while #1 was TDC compression, and you made the post which the rotor is pointing at #1, it should try to run.

Pins can get pushed out while reconnecting connectors, grounds could be reconnected and not actually grounding. New parts can be bad out the box.

 

[eloyc]

Original post said you replaced a bunch of parts. Besides head gaskets, what all did you replace?

What I'm getting at is you left the bottom end alone right? Timing cover didn't come off? So as long as you got the distributor in while #1 was TDC compression, and you made the post which the rotor is pointing at #1, it should try to run.

Pins can get pushed out while reconnecting connectors, grounds could be reconnected and not actually grounding. New parts can be bad out the box.

I did replace the timing chain and balancer, original chain was really loose.

 

[eloyc]

Well I've reached the end of what I'm capable and confident in doing. Anybody around midland, TX area willing to come take a look?

 

[mtnrgr]

When you did this job and reassembled everything, did you remove the distributor cap and rotor at all?

Once assembled have you removed and checked the cap and rotor?

I ask is, early 2025 I did a full tune up on my old 94 3.0 5spd ranger using motorcraft parts. When I went to start it it was crank crank...no start. I looked over everything and nothing. On my last nerves, I removed the distributor cap and check it and the rotor. The tip of the rotor was slightly chewed up, no idea how that happened. Had a spare, I installed it put all back together and it started instantly.

Also early last year I replaced the oil gauge sending unit. The rachet banged on the firewall a couple of times..thinking nothing of it. Went to start it and again crank crank..frustrated not knowing what it could be. As a last resort, I checked the fuel inertia switch and it was released. Apparently the banging on the firewall from the rachet released it. Reset it and the engine started instantly. For that I would check those couple of things. It appears you have done everything else for checking.