2007, Blend Door Actuator not working but could it be the Temp COntrol Switch?

[rgurleyjr]

Guys,

DId some searching but having a hard time as I see a lot of older Ranger threads.

Here's the deal, blend door is stuck on full heat regardless of which way I turn the knob. But if I turn Max A/C on, then the recirc door closes and I get full cold air but the moment I turn Max A/C off, it goes back to nothing but heat. Now it's nice with winter but when I just want lukewarm air, I can't get any.

I pulled the Blend Door Actuator off, pulled it apart, all looks good. However when hooked up to the harness and I turn the knob on the temp control, nothing happens as the arm doesn't move.

My research shows it's either the blend door DC Motor failed, or it could be the Temp Control Switch itself. I did some testing on the Blend Door connector, and those ohm/volt tests went good. However I'm being lazy and don't feel like taking the Temp Switch out to do more testing.

Any of you guys run into this? I'm really thinking it's the Blend Door Act but wonder how often the Temp Switches fail...

 

[Dirtman]

The blend door motots are NOTORIOUS for failing. I've never herd any complaints on the actual control switches so good bet its the blend door motor. If you have a multi meter you can do some basic testing. See if you're getting 12 volt power at the blend door motor connection as you move the control switch...

The replacement motor/actuators are dirt cheap. Last I checked like 15 bucks for the dorman model.

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

Is it possible switch has failed, yes, is it probable no
As Dirtman said its a failure of Blend Door that will be the problem

It can be the motor itself or the tab on the Door that the motor moves, has broken off


MAX AC uses VACUUM motor to close fresh air door AND vacuum to shut off heater hose valve in engine bay to cut off coolant flow to heater core, so you get MAX cooling.
So nothing to do with Blend door working or not

 

[rgurleyjr]

Thanks guys. I did some ohm checks between a few pins and resistance changes as I turn the knob. The site I was using gave more but required removing the switch. Now that I think about it, got to be the actuator.

The gears look great and turn just fine. I think the motor is just dead. Where are you seeing these for $15? The cheapest I see is 50 from Amazon.

 

[RonD]

$40-$60 sounds about right for the Dorman models they vary by year of Ranger they used different models, but Ford never quite perfected it, lol.

 

[rgurleyjr]

12v and ground checks out at the connector. As does the potentiameter. Thanks y'all, I look around for the cheapest one.

 

[rgurleyjr]

I think I see what you mean. If you search dorman 604-202, you get a black actuator for 20 less than if you search yh-1767. I just hope the dorman part number is right.

Per guy here and online, p/n is right.$15 on ebay, placed order.

 

[rgurleyjr]

Update. The 15 dollar actuator from Ebay works and all is well. Definitely search the dorman part number, even advance auto sells it cheaper than if you search the OEM number.

 

[RonD]

Good work

Thanks for the update and the FIX