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2001 2.3 Duratec - Difficult hose replacement question


jmarlowe

New Member
Joined
Jun 9, 2016
Messages
3
City
Delaware
Vehicle Year
2001
Transmission
Manual
The dreaded tee issue (something I was unaware of until it broke) has my Ranger out of commission. I'll have details on the problem below, but here are my questions - I'm hoping someone on this forum has already replaced this obnoxious hose.

1. If the intake manifold is removed, will I be able to reach the back hose (it has something to do with the EGR)?

2. Will I need to drop or lower the tranny to get access to the back hose?

Here is some of the info I've picked up online:

From the limited number of forum discussions on this issue, the consensus seems to say the exhaust manifold and intake manifold need to be removed, in addition to the compressor and the alternator.

I've found many people online do a hack job and fix the tee with plumbing supplies. I want to replace the whole hose assembly because I think it's just a matter of time before the hoses rot too (it is getting old).

This is the hose:
3L5Z8C633BA-BAC.jpg


The hose starts at the bottom of the coolant reservoir, has two bolt mounts on the exhaust manifold studs, has a tee to connect to the heater core, curves around the back of the engine, then curves back toward the front on the driver side under the intake manifold, then there is a tee, the broken one, with a small line that runs up behind the engine, the hose then ends at the thermostat housing. There is very little room between the engine and the firewall to get to that smaller hose at the back of the engine.

I have the compressor, alternator, and bracket removed. The bolts are off the exhaust manifold.

I'm trying to figure out if I need to remove the intake manifold or drop the tranny to get access to the little hose that runs up the back of the engine.

Here are some pictures I grabbed from the web:
The tee that breaks:
tanker3278-47967-albums-coolant-hoses-fittings-2819-picture-0402152017b-small-view-fitting-under-flashlight-16285.jpg


The quick fix solution:
DSC00141.jpg


Any help would be greatly appreciated,

TIA
 
I chose the hack version of this using a Sharkbite brass Tee (UC417LF) until I finally have the time to do it correctly and replace the entire hose.



But here's a post from another forum (not sure if you found this in your searching or not) where they didn't have to remove a lot of stuff to get it done.

I just replaced this hose on 2002 Ranger, 2.3, 5-speed and the job is not as daunting as it first appears. I tried to do too much from above and wasted a lot of time.

From above, remove the hose from the overflow tank and the thermostat housing. Then put it on jack stands go underneath. Remove the first exhaust section and get it out of the way. I wasted a lot time trying to work around it. Remove the dipstick tube. Remove the heater hose from where it attaches to the pipe. Remove the nuts holding the pipe portion of the hose to the exhaust manifold studs. Put a jack under the transmission crossmember and remove the crossmember bolts. Lower the transmission down until the rear of the motor almost touches the firewall. Remove the small hose from where it connects at the rear of the engine. There isn't much room but I was able to get a couple of fingers in there and squeeze the spring clamp together and get it off. Now you can remove the hose/pipe assembly. Pay close attention to how the pipe comes out because it will only go back the same way. Reverse all of the above steps to put it back together.

I spent almost a whole Sunday doing this job but now that I have it under my belt, I think I could do it in under 2 hours.
 
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Thanks for that info. It sounds like I can leave the exhaust manifold in place, but need to lower the transmission. I'll also have to figure out which section of exhaust he is referring to.
He makes it sound very easy - I'm not so confident. I've never done any work on the tranny (other than fluid changes).
I'll let you know how things work out.
 
When he says to remove the section of exhaust I think he's talking about the pipe that has the two catalytic converters that leads up to the exhaust manifold.

Yeah, once you get the exhaust pipe removed and lower the transmission, I believe removing that cooling pipe is going to be a real lesson in patience. Oh, and once you get the transmission lowered, you should be able to get a better look at the EGR cooling connection on the back of the head.

Oh, and something else, if you haven't already done it, I'd remove the drivers side front wheel well liner. I removed it when I changed out my thermostat and "Tee". It makes working in there so much easier. Heck, maybe removing both front wheel well liners would probably be the best option.
 
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I'm taking a quick break from working on the Ranger. I'm pretty thrilled I was able to get the old hose assembly out and the new one in without removing ANY of the following:

exhaust manifold
exhaust after the manifold
intake manifold
transmission (not moved in any way)

I did take a few pictures, I plan to post a write up on how I was able to get it done. It's still a beg job, but if I knew what I know now, I would have been able to finish this job in about 4-5 hours.

Thanks for the help Soledad.
 
You didn't move/lower the trans? Nice job! Now I'm really curious as to how you did it.

Yeah, we could really use a write with pics on this. This will become even more common as these 2.3L Duratec's age.

I'm having to replace my intake manifold due to a really bad IMRC tick and thought that maybe replacing this octopus coolant pipe while the intake manifold and valve cover (also replacing that gasket) were off might make the job easier.

I can't wait for the write up.
 
I'm really interested in jmarlowe write up & solution/photos (even 5 yrs later). I'm changing the same hose/pipe and can't figure how to get it out. I've already removed the cross-member at the back of the 5-spd trans and lowered ~4". Still not enough clearance. Think I'm going to try Soledad suggestion and remove the exhaust section after the manifold. There is an O2 sensor in that section that is in the way. Looks like removing the alt was unnecessary (DOH!). This is the first forum I've ever joined. Figured I'd better do something after running into this problem.
 
Jmarlowe you must have small hands. I did have to remove the exhaust manifold from the head. I also removed the alternator/ac bracket. I changed the thermostat while I was at it and I moved the ps pump over to the side to make a little more room. I stopped for a lunch break while I research this egr hose. I’ve tried pushing it on with the clamp already in place and that might work if I put a dab of lube on the nipple but I’m afraid that might cause issues later down the road. I can’t get in there with pliers to put the clamp on after. Looks like I will be lowering the trans after I eat bc I can’t get my hand in there good enough to get that hose on. I’m glad I came in here before I wasted half a day on this dang hose. This thing is a PITA!!
 
I would suggest a silicone grease for the lubricant. It won’t damage the rubber.
 
I would suggest a silicone grease for the lubricant. It won’t damage the rubber.
Dropping the trans only gave me an extra inch. I did get the hose on with the clamp already in place. I had it started but it wouldn’t get past the hump on the nipple. I used a long piece of flat bar against the clamp and pushed the hose with the only hand I could get in there and it finally seated all the way. I’m still glad I found this forum though. I’ve seen many helpful hints on many other things throughout the years.
 

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