2000 4 cyl 2.5L Ford Ranger Trying to remove cylinder head

[4b316]

The top left front takes the bolt with the stud attached as does the bottom rear to the fire wall ground strap.Fang,the dist.coil pack is just a hook up thing,spark plug location is numbered.Jon,boring block 40 over,shaving the deck 5-10 just to clean it up.Cutting the head 70 thousandths.probably will leave the valves alone this year,just check the seating.New pumps,aluminum timing gears and belt.Seems like it goes on and on.

 

[4b316]

Jon heres a few pictures of our truck,the 316. http://www.turn4photos.com/keyword/316#1061420297_RNsq8

 

[fang619]

thanks for the tip on the distributor 4b316 ive been stressing and now i can maybe get back on the road already

 

[johnrhadfield]

im doing this exact same project almost, my head gasket just went out also on my 99 and i just put in the bolts your talking about hours ago so you might have just lucked out!
your right about your lower intake taking 8 to hold it on
i drew up this diagram to the best of my knowledge but i think the bolt with the ground wire on it goes on the very top left on the head and the nut on it holds on the metal piece you attatch a chain to in order to pull your engine but im not 100% sure
im trying to figure out how to set up the distributor coil pack after i get it tdc so let me know if you have any info on that
i hope this helps!

Thanks,

John

 

[johnrhadfield]

The top left front takes the bolt with the stud attached as does the bottom rear to the fire wall ground strap.Fang,the dist.coil pack is just a hook up thing,spark plug location is numbered.Jon,boring block 40 over,shaving the deck 5-10 just to clean it up.Cutting the head 70 thousandths.probably will leave the valves alone this year,just check the seating.New pumps,aluminum timing gears and belt.Seems like it goes on and on.

To 4b316:

This weekend was just a little crazy. I got the exhaust and lower intake manifolds on. Then there was the water pump. I put the o-ring on the male part first instead of inside the female part. Well It would not go. I cracked the plastic retainer and a bolt on the water pump after about 3 hrs of trying to figure out how it was put together. Well after some sleep this morning I removed the intake from the bracket and found the only way to put it together with everything loose except the water intake and oring correctly in the water pump(through the bracket) THEN I connected the water pump first and made sure it would spin, then bolted big bracket, then bolted and epoxied broken bracket. It didn't break all the way through the tube just the bracket.

That one little thing about the o-ring beat me up. Last night, I heard 2 cracks one was the plastic retainer and 1 was a water pump bolt. I thought I had cracked the block and was about to commit suicide(just kidding). I was like aaaaaaaaaahhhhhhh!!!!!!!

Thanks

Jon heres a few pictures of our truck,the 316. http://www.turn4photos.com/keyword/316#1061420297_RNsq8

That looks like a blast!


By the way I cant see those pictures on my Blackberry 8310. I had to wait to get my laptop. I drive all day during the week.


John

 

[4b316]

You can get them on if you work it around a little bit but it is tricky.I,m going to weld up a water pump end and make it so I can put a hose on it but i am relocating the whole bracket and alternator and coils to the other side.

 

[johnrhadfield]

You can get them on if you work it around a little bit but it is tricky.I,m going to weld up a water pump end and make it so I can put a hose on it but i am relocating the whole bracket and alternator and coils to the other side.

To 4b316:

Aluminum TIG weld?

I had no idea one oring could be such a pain.

The top bolt that goes under the coils on the big bracket and into the cyl hd, I just could barely not bolt it in. So I didn't force it and left it out. The bracket is tight against the cyl hd just not bolted. The other 2 bolts are holding the bracket on. 2 bolts enough? I'll find out. If not I guess I could "shave drill" the bracket hole a bit.
Maybe a tap would do it.

Little bit of gray paint in that cyl hd bolt hole too.

Those 3 bolts ie top middle and bottom the same bolts?

John

 

[4b316]

One of our sponsors welds all our alum.pieces.Did you try leaving all three bolts loose until you got them all started?Probably not a big deal if you leave one out,we just run the top and bottom one.The bolts are the same size but might be different lenghts,but I don't think so.

 

[johnrhadfield]

One of our sponsors welds all our alum.pieces.Did you try leaving all three bolts loose until you got them all started?Probably not a big deal if you leave one out,we just run the top and bottom one.The bolts are the same size but might be different lenghts,but I don't think so.

To 4b316:

I'll leave the top one out for now.

This is a little black and pink wire going to the altenator. Is this right. It has little rubber boot on it. The rest I marked.

http://www.4shared.com/photo/A_yEJzQs/IMG00340.html
http://www.4shared.com/photo/o542IHqs/IMG00342.html
http://www.4shared.com/photo/iAqdARtW/IMG00343.html


Thanks,

John

 

[4b316]

Yes,it goes to the post on the alternator.

 

[johnrhadfield]

Yes,it goes to the post on the alternator.

To 4b316:

I finally put everything back together(long story). Charged the battery and nothing. Well it blew off the fuel line finally(I guess I never pulled hard enough to seperate the linews) so I reconnected the fuel line and bingo. It started. It sounds like when I first bought her. At first it sounded a little rough like something clicking kinda loud then the clicking sounded normal. Maybe it was me being tired and sick most of Thanksgiving.

Before I started her, I dumped the oil. All clear oil then at the end little drippings of black oil (glopletts?). The little slitherings then dropped off, not like regular drops of oil. I will warm her up again and then do a full all night draining.

I took it real easy on her. Just idled
For about 30 minutes. Went for a drive around the block a few times.
One vacumn line broke(looks like a vacumn line) that goes from a "softball"(near radiator) with 2 vacumn lines, looks like the gray vacumn line goes under and around the heater fan(?circular) on the passenger side firewall. Any ideas on where this goes?

No leaks so far. Will keep monitoring radiator water level.

Thanks to all that helped!

John

 

[johnrhadfield]

The original overheat problem was a water pump with the blades rusted off.(Where did they go?)

I am just double-checking what appears to be overcooling(at least at the temp gauge). My heater doesn't get very warm while driving. I can hold my hand on the cyl hd and it gets hot. Upper intake is cooler.

If I stop the engine then wait a minute or 2, then restart, the engine temp reading is marginally higher than before and quickly cools down.

So is it a stuck clutch fan that is causing the overcooling at my temp guage?

Is there a way to test the clutch fan operation? It is always spinning, not sure how fast.

I ask because the cyl hd gets hot but not so hot that I can't hold my hand on it.

I(of course) have already replaced the water pump.

Any way to check that my cooling system is working correctly?

This time I at least always carefully keep the radiator topped off with water that way my temp sensor "should" read properly. So I don't get fooled again

I squeeze the top and bottom radiator hoses and radiator fluid goes out the the top so no cloggage there.

I might be being paranoid, it's 25 degrees tonight.

John

 

[4b316]

Did you put a new thermostat in it?Something holding it open?(maybe a broken water pump blade?)Take your wifes meat thermometer and put in the top of the rad and see what the temp is.Or a candy therm.Did you do a good rad flush also?Open the petcock up and stick the garden hose in the rad and let it run for 10-15 mins.

 

[johnrhadfield]

I don't know what "flow" is supposed to look like when I open the radiator cap.

It doesn't look like its doing any "flowing".

I am thinking about removing the thermostat to see a possible difference in the system "flowing" behaviour.

Any ideas?

John

 

[johnrhadfield]

Did you put a new thermostat in it?Something holding it open?(maybe a broken water pump blade?)Take your wifes meat thermometer and put in the top of the rad and see what the temp is.Or a candy therm.Did you do a good rad flush also?Open the petcock up and stick the garden hose in the rad and let it run for 10-15 mins.

To 4b316: Yes. The gasket fell off so I put the gasket in first then I put the new thermostat in. I may need to be another thermostat. it should still open.

I think use the candy thermometer in the radiator. And a laser thermometer(19.99 on sale today at Harbor Freight). I will make sure they match temp at the rad cap, then travel to cyl hd and block etc,,,

Every vehicle should have a oil dipstick thermometer as backup.

I flushed it well I think. I have rad water out the the top when I squeeze either the top or bottom rad hose.

There may not be a problem. However, I have about 800 plus reasons to make 100 percent sure that the engine is cooling properly before the engine overheats.

Thanks,

John