2.0 carb to 2.3 efi

[Mark_88]

I'd go with the electronic pump instead of trying to change the shaft. As long as you connect the live wire to a fuse that is NOT on when the key is off it should be OK. I used the Green 30 amp for mine since that fuse is for the heater blower.

Just be careful...I think I screwed up the fuse connector by jamming too much wire into the hole...the fuse won't stay in and the blower don't work now...might have to replace the whole fuse box...or rewire the blower to a different fuse connector...

 

[Kenneth S]

Ranger8 since you have the 2.0 and 2.3 sitting next to each other I would go ahead and put the 2.0 intermediate shaft in the 2.3, it also gives you a good excuse to put a new
timing belt on the 2.3 while your switching shafts.

 

[Mark_88]

Doesn't that involve removing the oil pan to access something or does it slide right out once you undo the bolt? I didn't run into that because the block I have didn't even have a hole for the pump...

 

[Kenneth S]

As long as the block has a hole where a distributor should go it will go, when they redesigned the block to where is no dist hole the oil pump setup was changed, so you don't need to pull the oil pan. If the engine came out of a mustang and has a steel oil pan, and you want to put a ranger aluminum oil pan on you must change to the ranger aluminum oil pan oil pump it's different to clear the aluminum oil pan.

 

[Mark_88]

Hmmmmm....now you got me thinking...I took my 2.3 out of a Ranger but swapped on the aluminum oil pan...it cleared OK but not sure if the pump sits low enough...I know the oil is pumping because it was leaking around the valve cover gasket and coming out the tube at the top (I haven't bothered to plug it yet)...

But I did get it going...finally...timing was out by a tooth or two...

 

[little hoss 86]

well guys i am just about to drop in this 2.3 now had a little delay on the project 8lb 3oz 20 and 1/2 baby boy!!! so i have everything switched but on the side of my new 2.3 there are taped holes for a fuel pump but no hole for the shaft am i haveing the same prob as ranger8 is a electric pump the answer?

 

[Mark_88]

well guys i am just about to drop in this 2.3 now had a little delay on the project 8lb 3oz 20 and 1/2 baby boy!

Wow!

congrats...Daddy!

If your block doesn't allow for a pump I'd say go with the electronic pump...they're pretty cheap and they work good...just make sure you get one that is less than 10psi...otherwise you'll blow out the jets in the carb...

 

[Kenneth S]

Congrats on the kid. Go with an electric fuel pump. I now have the efi intake with the carb adaptor for sale, I finally got the d-port cast iron 2 barrel boat intake manifold installed today (this weekend comes the mpg test), my truck runs a whole lot better on the bottom end of the rpm range with the boat manifold than it did with the efi intake with a 2 barrel carb adapted to it (which is what I was hoping for). Here's some pics of the boat intake.

 

[Mark_88]

gosh, that almost looks like my intake...except the carb is turned the other way (90*)...now I'm wondering if I can get a holey 350 to plop on there...

Can't see the throttle cable...did you mod a bracket again on this one?

 

[Kenneth S]

I fabbed up another throttle cable bracket, it's kinda hard to see since it's painted black so I "painted" around it, it also holds the dipstick tube in place.

Mark, if your intake has a holley/weber progressive on it all you need is an adaptor to bolt a holley 350 2 bbl on it, TransDapt still makes the adaptor kit to do the swap (part # 2039), I had a old one that I modded to fit the boat intake. Here is a link for you (as well as others).
http://www.tdperformance.com/images/Default.asp?id=5433

 

[Mark_88]

Thanks Kenneth,

I am going to try to get a pic of mine today...will have to pull the carb off...but that adaptor looks like it would actually take the 350 directly bolt-on...do you happen to have the measurements between the bolts on the 350 carb handy? If so, I could tell without yanking the carb even...

My intake actually has a two-stage bolt pattern...the outside four bolts hold down a platform (like an adaptor itself) and the carb bolts onto the adaptor...if I take the carb and adaptor off the hole seems like the size of the holley 350 carb (if this all makes sense)...

I know esslinger had a very similar intake on their website years ago...could not find it on there though...but it looks like part number E2726...except there is a second-stage that opens the manifold even wider (I guess the 78 mustangs allowed for different carbs)...

 

[Kenneth S]

The 350 Holley will bolt on the intake (it's the same bolt pattern) once you remove the adapter for the little weber 2 barrel, just make sure that there are no places for a vacuum leak, I used one of those solid black phenolic spacers that you see under some motorcraft 2 barrels, been there, done that, got the t-shirt many times.

 

[Mark_88]

I took the carb off and it appears I may need an adaptor...but I won't know until I can get the carb...could not find any vac leaks at the carb or manifold so I'm thinking the carb is in need of cleaning or overhaul...but I'd just rather replace it at this point...

One other question...the line going into the front of your carb...is that the brake booster or something for the PCV? I didn't see a PCV line on this setup...

 

[Ranger8]

Alright guys, good news and bad news with the 2.0 to 2.3 swap. Finally got everything done, ended up going with a 1" Esslinger spacer on the efi intake using a freshly rebuilt Holley 350. Purchased and installed a new electric fuel pump which is rated at 5-9 psi, wired it to run when ignition is on only. It now just runs fuel through the carb! First time I tried to start it it pumped enough gas on top of cylinders 3 and 4 that the starter wouldn't turn it over. Finally got the fuel off of the pistons and I can get it to fire and briefly start with the gas in the carb if I unhook the power to the fuel pump. I'm guessing that I have a carb problem. This is really starting to bum me out since I just paid an expert to rebuilt the carb. What is my problem? I assume that I have a carb problem but not sure what to look for first.

 

[Ranger8]

Ok, pulled the carb off and apart. Part of the problem was the gasket on the power valve, was leaking, fixed that. Reinstalled carb. Still pumps gas straight through the carb. I'm thinking that the float is set too high and the electric pump is pushing the gas through the jets before it has a chance to shut off the fuel flow??? Needle and seat looked ok, not dirty. What size jets should I have in the 350 to run it on my 2.3.

Pretty sure it is in the carb not the pressure on the fuel pump as I hooked up an old Motorcraft 2150 and the pump does not push gas straight thru the carb like the holley does.

Any help on my problem is appreciated.