2.0 carb to 2.3 efi

[little hoss 86]

ok.. so if i just want it to run again (for now) i can use my head on the 2.3? i will need a valve job cause mine was leaking a bit.. i do have a plug cap for a distrib, and a mech fuel pump on my new 2.3 do you guys know if there is a spur on the cam for the distrib, and a lobe for a mech fuel pump? if so all i should have to do is have a head job and gasket then just use all my old stuff to get me going again right? also wanted to thank all of you for your info so far it has helped me alot and saved me alot of$$$$... rob

 

[Kenneth S]

Mark that pic was taken before I got the engine running, I run one of those little imitation k&n filters on it the engine is sealed up pretty good 1500 miles and the little filter is not oily, I leaked the engine after the 500 mile oilchange the worst cylinder leaked down at 2%. The lower intake is from a 89 mustang, I also ported the intake a little bit at the opening (knige edged where the 4 runners meet)

Little Hoss there should be a lobe on the intermediate shaft, also the plug where the dist would be is actually what is called a dummy shaft it runs off the gear on the intermediate shaft (just like a distributor does) so it can drive the oil pump, just remove it like you would a dist and put your dist in there.

 

[Mark_88]

What year was the 2.3 motor from?

If it didn't have a distributor it may have the internal parts for one, but it may not...in that case, you can buy a low pressure fuel pump (5 to 7 PSI is all you need) and mount it on the inside of the engine bay and use that instead of the mechanical fuel pump...

I got mine for about $75 (Canadian) but I've seen them for as little as $20...they actually work great and all you need do is connect the ground to the body and plug the live wire into the fuse box. The only thing you need make sure of is that you use one that is only on when the key is turned on like the 30 amp green one for the heater blower motor.

BTW, if you're going to shell out money to have the 2.0 head done, you might consider spending just a bit more and get a 4 plug 2.3 head with rollers...they are better because they can be reved much higher if you happen to do that...

Either way, have a shop magnaflux test the head for cracks before having the valves done...if the head or valve seats are cracked you may need to replace the head anyways...or the shop may be able to machine the cracks if they're not too bad...

My valve job cost me $480 but it was worth it...

 

[Mark_88]

Kenneth:

Thanks for clarifying...I will shop around for the 89 mustang lower intake...and get pricing on the adaptor/carb. I did a mild P&P on the head but didn't go with a mild racing cam this time around...might do that later if I can find a racing roller cam...I've also got the adjustable timing gear but I haven't played with that too much either...didn't think it would do any good with a stock carb setup without doing valves and overbore the pistons...

 

[Kenneth S]

My 2.3 was out of a 89 mustang that had a dist in it, I think it was 95 or 96 when they came out with changed the block with no provision for a dist or fuel pump, my guess is that Ford used up all the 2.3 blocks with the dist and fuel pump "holes" before they changed to the blocks to different oil pump drive configuration.

 

[little hoss 86]

so if i opt for the 8 plug head can i still use my distrib with the 8 plug head or do i need to some how make the coil packs work?

 

[Kenneth S]

You could use the 8 plug head, you just block off the spark plugs on the intake and just use the ones on the exhaust side with your distributor, but the main problem would be on the intake side, there is no other intake available for it, and the lower intake where it bolts to the upper is different than the 4 plug efi manifold so you can't use the 4 plug efi manifold to carburator adaptors that are available, unless you can either fabricate, or have someone make you a custom adaptor to be able to bolt a carburator to it.

 

[Ranger8]

I just want to start by saying how helpful this site is. Just found it a few days ago and it has been a real help.

This thread has been really helpful as it fits my situation too.

I have a 88 with a 2.0 that is wore out and has that wonderful factory carb on it.

I plan to replace it with a 2.3 and think that I am on track but would like some other opinions.

I have already picked up a good 2.3 from an 89 mustang with dist. and provision for fuel pump. Already have a used Holley 350 that just needs to be kitted. Looking at options for the intake. Is my only choice to use that carb going to be buying an adapter from someone like esslinger? I do have an older two barrel intake from an old 2.3 that has oval ports on the ends. The mustang has d ports doesn't it? haven't pulled the intake yet.

Are there any other concerns I need to be aware of before i start this process?

Thanks in advance for any replies.

 

[Kenneth S]

Ranger8 the 89 mustang 2.3 has the D port head just my 89 mustang 2.3 does.

The only problem with using the efi lower intake is that because of the long runners the throttle response from idle to around 2500 rpm or so is not the greatest, it will take a little tweaking of the carb (jetting, power valve, accelerator pump cam), but after 2500 rpm's it really wakes up. I found another intake manifold for my 2.3 (from a boat) that has real short runners for low end torque (which is what I'm looking for) so my efi intake, carb adaptor, throttle cable, and throttle cable bracket will be up for sale here in a week or so.

 

[Ranger8]

thanks for the quick response Kenneth. If I remember right, you are running the 2" spacer. Will I still experience poor throttle response at lower rpm's if i go with a 1" spacer? Figured the 1" spacer would work better for my use.

 

[Kenneth S]

The 1" spacer would probably be alot better for low end torque, I might try try milling the spacer down to 1" before I sell it (I'll have to make a plate for the carb to sit on, since the 2" adaptor is cast with a bigger plenum about a 1/2" below where the carb mounts), and see how it does before I put the other intake on, that way I can tell right away how much difference there will be (I won't have to buy the 1" spacer to see the difference that way).

 

[Mark_88]

so my efi intake, carb adaptor, throttle cable, and throttle cable bracket will be up for sale here in a week or so.

I'd be interested in that if you do plan to sell it...let me know when the time comes...I'm not working right now and neither is the truck...but that's nothing a job and a new intake wouldn't fix...just a little short on cash till next month...that is if Ranger8 doesn't want it...or the shipping costs would outweigh going to a local yard...

If you have pics of the new intake I'd be interested in seeing that too...

 

[Ranger8]

project started!

Well guys, the project is started. I've got both the 2.0 carb engine and the replacement 89 mustang 2.3 engine on the shop floor side by side. I have discovered that although the 2.3 had the plate where the fuel pump goes, it does not have the lobe on the shaft to run the fuel pump. What are my choices here? Guess the simplest one is to buy an aftermarket electric fuel pump, but in order to save money, can I swap the shaft from the 2.0 to the 2.3?

I have also determined that after picking up the motor and getting my Holley rebuilt, i no longer have the funds at this point to purchase an adapter for the efi intake. I do still have an oval port 2 barrel intake from a 70's model car that bolts in place. Can I use this intake on the dport head? It does create a lip on the lower side about 3/8" high (oval vs. d). I'm not sure what effect if any this would have? Any ideas?

 

[Ranger8]

forgot something,

KennethS - If I end up having to use the efi intake, how did you plug the injector holes?

 

[Kenneth S]

Using the oval port intake with the d-port head will allow fuel to puddle in the intake manifold because of the air/fuel flow problems from the "lip" from when the air/fuel hits it making it run bad.
The Esslinger adaptor comes with 9/16" dia freeze plugs to plug the injector holes in the efi intake.