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2.0 carb to 2.3 efi


Joined
May 17, 2008
Messages
23
Vehicle Year
1986
Transmission
Manual
hi i am trying to get this 2.3 efi to work in my old 86 tat was 2.0 carb everything bolts up fine but is it really necessery to have to drop and change the tank for the high psi pump or can i just get a high psi pump for the frame rail and use my existing tank? or is there anything else i should know before i tare into this thing?
 
The high pressure pump should go on the rail...the tank usually has a low pressure pump in it for older FI models...maybe later Rangers only used one pump but don't know for sure...

I know they can be expensive but if you go to the junkyard you can pick up a tank ans sending unit for way less than a new tank or pump...or get a doner vehicle with everything on it if possible because you would also need the fuel lines with the fuel filter and all the canister and the hose that twists in a loop to make it work right...not sure what it all does but that's what I pulled off my 2.9 when I put the carbed engine in my truck...
 
thanks..

thanks.. i have a whole truck to get all this but i'm sure the in tank pump is bad so it looks like thats all i will have to buy.. thanks for your help.. rob
 
Your 86 has a low pressure fuel pump in the tank with a high pressure fuel pump mounted on the frame on the drivers side, my 88 is the same way.
 
Your 86 has a low pressure fuel pump in the tank with a high pressure fuel pump mounted on the frame on the drivers side, my 88 is the same way.

I think he is trying to use the 2.0 setup and they don't actually have a pump in the tank...the FI models would on an 86, but this was originally carbed...
 
thanks.. i have a whole truck to get all this but i'm sure the in tank pump is bad so it looks like thats all i will have to buy.. thanks for your help.. rob

the 2.3 will work with the 2.0 setup...that's what I have on my truck currently...unless you really want to go FI...I avoided going to fuel injection because of all the extra stuff that you have to put on the truck and in the tank...the extra 5 or 10 hp wasn't worth it...and you can gain that by doing a few other mods...like getting the shorty header and bigger exhaust...
 
so can i use my old 2.0 carb and intake on the 2.3 and avoid all the fi mods? if so thats what i would rather do? what did you use of your old engine on the 2.3?
 
If your 2.0 has the d port head the intake should work, does your 2.0 have a 1 barrel or a 2 barrel holley/webber carburator on it?
 
i have a 1bbl webber and my new 2.3 has that 8 plug set up on it, so if i use the new 2.3 as a long block and put all my 2.0 stuff on it how do i get around the 8 plug deal? or am i making this harder than it is?
 
i have a 1bbl webber and my new 2.3 has that 8 plug set up on it, so if i use the new 2.3 as a long block and put all my 2.0 stuff on it how do i get around the 8 plug deal? or am i making this harder than it is?

You can do this three or four different ways...one) use the 8 plug head and just make plug plugs for the open 4 holes two) use the 2.0 head and everything will work the way it was originally and three) you can get another D port head and a different intake/2bbl carb from a different 2.3 that used a carb.

The other option would be to use a FI intake from a 86 or similar year and get an adaptor and a different 2bbl carb like the holley 350...these tend to be the best setups (for HP) apparently...and what I am considering doing now since I think my 2 bbl carb needs work anyways...

But the simplest route with the best fit would be simply using the 2.0 head...and for that you'd probably only need to buy another head gasket and maybe the head bolts if the old ones are torque-to-yield (meaning they cannot be used once they're torqued)

There may be other options but I can't think of any right now
 
I have a D9EE casting 2.3 head. Got it in a box of parts. looks to be fresh out of the machine shop.

from what I can find its for a 79-80 2.3 carburatored turbo...if it will help , shoot me a offer.


rember with FI you will also have to run the return fuel lines.
 
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You can do this three or four different ways...one) use the 8 plug head and just make plug plugs for the open 4 holes two) use the 2.0 head and everything will work the way it was originally and three) you can get another D port head and a different intake/2bbl carb from a different 2.3 that used a carb.

The other option would be to use a FI intake from a 86 or similar year and get an adapter and a different 2bbl carb like the Holley 350...these tend to be the best setups (for HP) apparently...and what I am considering doing now since I think my 2 bbl carb needs work anyways...

But the simplest route with the best fit would be simply using the 2.0 head...and for that you'd probably only need to buy another head gasket and maybe the head bolts if the old ones are torque-to-yield (meaning they cannot be used once they're torqued)

There may be other options but I can't think of any right now

1st off make sure the 2.3 block you have still has the provision for a distributor.

I have seen an early ranger with a 2.3 and a 1 barrel carb, so if you are down on money, or need to keep the truck running swapping the head from the 2.0 to the 2.3 block would be the way to go. (The easiest way!)

If you have the time get a 2.3 4 plug head with a good 2 barrel intake and carb. (The best way!)

You could use the 8 plug head and plug up the spark plug holes on the intake side, and either fab up a adapter to put a carb on the 8 plug efi head, or fab up a completely new intake manifold (there's no aftermarket lower intakes or carb adapters for the 8 plug head, the lower 8 plug efi intake is totally different than the 4 plug efi lower intake so the adapter to put a carb on a 4 plug efi manifold won't work on the 8 plug efi intake) (The hard way!)

On my 88 after I put another engine in it I went with the 2" tall 2 barrel carb adapter (with a Holley 350 2 barrel carb) to the 4 plug efi lower intake, but it's not the ideal setup for low rpm usage, I have as of yet not been able to get it to run in the off idle to 3000 rpm range (because of long intake runners, it acts just like a tunnel ram does on a V-8), but after 3000 rpm it comes on strong but I rarely run it above 3000 rpm just to save gas, so I'm looking for a stock 2 barrel D-port intake manifold (if there is such a thing), all the aftermarket D-port carb intakes I've seen have no provision to heat the bottom of the intake manifold like a stock one does for better drive ability when the engine is still cold. I might have to fab up a intake with very short runners plus having it heated on the bottom like a stock intake does. Time will what I'll windup doing.
 
Kenneth:

After I replaced my 2.0 with a 2.3 short block I then replaced the head with a 2.3 D-port head...then I found an intake and 2 bbl carb off a 1978 Mustang II...it's a D-port (offy type) and it bolted right on and had only 3 vac lines.

It was working pretty good except for a flooding problem that I think was caused by losing spark in wet weather. Dry weather it ran like a champ and never flooded (usually died on the highway with all the roadspray).

I've been thinking of doing the lower end EFI intake and getting a different carb sorta like your setup...but I'd probably use a shorter adapter like a 1" instead...unless you think the 2" will work better...might go that route...
 
Mark, if I had it do to over again I would have gotten the 1" spacer, less plenum volume = better bottom end drivability, if your in it for top end power the 2" spacer would be the one to use, if you want more power lower down in the rpm range of your engine the 1" spacer would be best. (With all my experience I should have all ready known to get the 1" spacer, oh well I guess I'll put that one down in my duh file):damnit1:

Here's a pic of my engine with the 2" esslinger spacer, had to put the carb on backwards, you cant put the throttle cable in the exact same place as the brake booster.
3858.jpg
 
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Thanks for the pic...I've been looking for something like that for a while now...What year Ranger is the lower EFI intake from?

I also see the that the valve cover vent is open...do you run it like that or do you cap it or plug it into something? I've tried several filtered caps and running it into the breather but eventually it gets gummed up with oil (on the older engine that have valve and ring problems)...not sure if I could run it without losing a bit of oil but I haven't had the engine running since the head was rebuilt...
 

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