1st Ranger, any go to spots to check for oil leak?

[flyin-lowe]

So kind of an update and now more questions. My mechanic was able to get it up on the lift and take a look at things. The truck is dripping oil from multiple locations, which makes think of a couple things. One, I switched the truck to full synthetic oil (Mobil 1) when I got it last summer. I used to hear stories about going from dyno oil to synthetic causing leaks. I had never experienced this before, so didn't think much of it. I switched it to synthetic last August when I bought it. The only other thing I can think of is something causing pressure. After having the truck on a lift for a day and checking it, there is oil dripping from the front crank seal, the rear main seal, and the timing chain cover.
I know the previous owner and he kept the truck inside and it never leaked. I have had the truck since last August and it has been parked in my garage since then. Never a single spot on the floor until this issue came up. Seems odd after us having the truck for about 8 months, it would just start leaking in three different places at the same time??
To start with he has changed the front crank seal and switching it back to dyno oil. I also had him change the PCV valve just in case. Anything else that could change multiple leaks all at once? I truly just thought based on the leak pattern on my garage floor, it was leaking at the front seal while driving and then oil was just blowing back on the engine causing it to drip from different places. He is certain it is leaking from at least those three spots. He has cleaned it up real good and I am going to drive it more and see what happens.

 

[sgtsandman]

The expansion/swell properties on seals of synthetic oil compared to petroleum oil is different. So, the seals may have shrunk as a result. Going back to petroleum oil or a blend may fix the problem.

Also, synthetic oil tends to clean built up deposits in an engine. So an existing leak that may have been sealed up with varnish and oil sludge build up may now have been cleaned up and showed themselves.

So, try switching back and see if the leaks fix themselves but keep in mind that you may need to replace the seals in order to fix the problem at this point.

 

[flyin-lowe]

I have been researching over the weekend and am also considering adding AT 205. I know many people think some of these additives are snake oil, but this one seems to have legitimate real world results. I have watched a bunch of videos (including project farm) and all that I have seen say good things. I have even searched for reasons not to use AT 205 and cant find much. It is one of the few things I have researched on youtube that doesn't have a bunch of negative videos to match the positive videos. Especially since the leaks I have are not horrible.

 

[sgtsandman]

I have been researching over the weekend and am also considering adding AT 205. I know many people think some of these additives are snake oil, but this one seems to have legitimate real world results. I have watched a bunch of videos (including project farm) and all that I have seen say good things. I have even searched for reasons not to use AT 205 and cant find much. It is one of the few things I have researched on youtube that doesn't have a bunch of negative videos to match the positive videos. Especially since the leaks I have are not horrible.

That's up to you. Personally, I would try switching back to petroleum oil or a blend and see what happens.

I generally don't like using products to plug up leaks since they tend to have a tendency to plug up other stuff that you don't want plugged up.

 

[flyin-lowe]

The research on AT 205 shows it’s a liquid polymer, clear and the consistency of water. It has an affect on the seals themselves, softens and expands them. There is no change in oil viscosity and it doesn’t have any particles etc. that can plug anything up.

 

[Terrys87]

I don’t know the 3.0 but work on 2.9. Ford did not use the best gaskets. Go with the blue Felpro gaskets. Maybe be that switching fluids was the straw that broke the camels back, you driving it more often or just coincidence. Age just may have kicked in with the right temperature changes.

 

[flyin-lowe]

So this week the front crank seal was replaced. I ended up having him take the PCV valve back, first off at Oreilly it was $70.00. My mechanic thought the old one was fine and didn't see any other signs it was bad. Also switched it back to conventional oil and I went ahead and added some AT 205 reseal. The bottle and videos say it takes up to five ours of drive time to fully work. I drove the truck home from the shop (35 minute drive) and parked it with a new piece of cardboard underneath and not a single drip day one. Let it sit another day and drove it about 40 minutes last night and still not a single drip.
Will likely never know if it was the new oil, or the AT 205 that stopped the rear main seal leak, but so far it hasn't had a single drip. Fingers crossed...

 

[flyin-lowe]

Last update, it has been a week now and I have driven the truck multiple times, at least 30 miles per trip and it has still not dripped a drop of oil. If you go back to the first picture I posted of how much oil it started leaking, and the different locations it was leaking from, I am still amazed. Either going back to the dyno oil, or the AT 205, or a combo of both did the job, not more rear main seal leak and no timing chain cover leak. I know the front crank seal replacement fixed that but I didn't replace anything else.

 

[MaicoDoug]

Both my Ford V6 blocks, 2.8/2.9 & the 4.0 both enjoy leaking from the valve covers ending up on the oil pan.

I personally go for the AT 204. Have not tried the AT 205 yet.