1st gen supercap-1 piece driveshaft swap

[tx_pwp5]

Hey guys,

Almost completed my lift project, now it's time for the driveshaft swap.

Who has done one of these on a 1st gen supercab? Mine is an 87 4x4 with the 2.9.

I've looked through the tech articles and stuff, but everything seems to be for a single cab or newer truck that is not a 1st gen supercab.

I know I want to go with the steel driveshaft if possible since it is slightly smaller diameter, but I'm still not sure if I need any additional adapters or whatever.

Notes from the Tech Articles

"If you own a 1983-1989 Supercab model, this swap can still be done, but the rear driveshaft flange on the axle will be smaller. You will need to swap the larger rear U-joint attachment with 3" bolt spacing with another forward one that has a 2.5" bolt spacing."

"My personal "issue" with "conversion" aka "Jump size" U-joints is that you are using a non standard parts that you must keep track of because U-joints are ultimately a "wear item". If you simply get the correct flange "adapter" then you get to keep track of the fact that you now need a U-joint for a 1998-up ranger (MUCH easier to remember)."

"The Explorer Sport Trac (2002-05) 4x4 rear drive shaft is the same as the 98 ranger 1 piece shaft. So it is another option for people looking to swap out the 2 piece."

Thanks

 

[4ohRanger]

I'm following this. I couldn't find anything either. I just made a thread like an hour ago haha I have a '92 extra cab ranger with a 4.0


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[adsm08]

I have done this. Find a good drive line shop, someone who builds drive shafts from scratch. Tell them you need the front flange for a 98 4x4 Ranger. It will get you what you need for the rear so you aren't using a conversion joint.

Keep in mind, if you have a manual trans (I don't know which one you have) it will be shorter than the transmissions that used that 1-piece shaft. The difference is about two inches.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Just as a note, 4oh, your '92 isn't included in that transmission length note from adsm, all 4.0L's (well, anything newer than '90 other than some manual transmission Rangers with 2.9L's) have a transmission that is the same length, so no worries there.

 

[tx_pwp5]

I have done this. Find a good drive line shop, someone who builds drive shafts from scratch. Tell them you need the front flange for a 98 4x4 Ranger. It will get you what you need for the rear so you aren't using a conversion joint.

Keep in mind, if you have a manual trans (I don't know which one you have) it will be shorter than the transmissions that used that 1-piece shaft. The difference is about two inches.

I've got an auto trans.

Are you saying all I'll need is the shaft and the front flange for a 98 4x4 Ranger to use on the rear of the shaft to mate with the rear end, right?

Do I need anything else before I get started?

Thanks,

 

[adsm08]

I've got an auto trans.

Are you saying all I'll need is the shaft and the front flange for a 98 4x4 Ranger to use on the rear of the shaft to mate with the rear end, right?

Do I need anything else before I get started?

Thanks,

Pretty much. The first major mods I did to my 87 super cab were the 4.0 clutch, M5OD and 1-piece drive shaft, all done at the same time. The M5OD is the same length as the A4LD, so everything I went through applies to your swap here.

I got a 1-piece shaft out of a 98 super cab, then stopped in at a drive-line shop in Harrisburg and got a flange that matched the one on the front of my 'new' drive shaft.

After that the only other thing I had to do modification-wise for the drive shaft was chop out the little piece the carrier bearing sits on.

 

[tx_pwp5]

Awesome thanks for getting back to me so quick on that. I just got my lift on but I'm just waiting for something to grenade with it vibrating as much as it is.

 

[4ohRanger]

Just as a note, 4oh, your '92 isn't included in that transmission length note from adsm, all 4.0L's (well, anything newer than '90 other than some manual transmission Rangers with 2.9L's) have a transmission that is the same length, so no worries there.

Thanks!


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[adsm08]

Just as a note, 4oh, your '92 isn't included in that transmission length note from adsm, all 4.0L's (well, anything newer than '90 other than some manual transmission Rangers with 2.9L's) have a transmission that is the same length, so no worries there.

The caveat for length stops applying around 1988. The FM145 was the last of the "short" Ranger transmissions. 87 was the last year it was used commonly, although it was carried over into 88 for a little bit (probably for inventory burn off).

 

[tx_pwp5]

Called my local drive line shop to order the front flange, but the guy said he needed some more info to find what we need.

U joint size?

Male or female pilot

Size of pilot

Part number of 98 4x4 flange if anyone knows it that would make this cake.

Thanks,

 

[tx_pwp5]

Morning dudes!

I got a 1 piece steel shaft out of a 2001 Explorer Sport Trac 4x4 with a 4.0 and it bolted up without any problems. The shaft was 75 bucks. Funny thing was the guy told me this was for a 2001-2003 Sport Trac, not a 2002-2005. Either way, mine definitely came from a 2001 so we know that at least some of those will work.

I only had to change out the rear flange with a Spicer 2-2-949 flange that I got from my local driveline shop. The bad news about this flange is that it is now obsolete and expensive as hell. I talked the guy down on mine from 162 to 102, then we called the only other driveline shop in Austin that we knew did the same work and they wanted 190 for it and it wasn't available. Mine is a genuine ford part.

I was in a time crunch, but it would have been cheaper to purchase two 75 dollar driveshafts and pull the front flange off the second than to buy the new flange. Either way, I got everything installed with the help of my press (the old U joint was seriously stuck in the flange).

I still have to trim and re-hang the skid plate, and I'm on the fence about re-installing the carrier bearing cross member. Ive heard you need it, and also that it's only for supporting the carrier bearing and you don't. I'll probably re-install it a couple inches forward when I re-install the skid plate just to be safe.

It made a HUGE difference in the drive quality of my truck. My lift killed my carrier bearing and bushing in less than two weeks, but even before I put the new shaft on, the old two piece shaft vibrated like crazy and I didn't even notice it. The truck is MUCH smoother now. I would highly recommend this to everyone, even if you don't have a lift.

The swap itself was really easy. The hardest part was removing the carrier bearing bracket (rivets suck) and swapping the flange & u-joint out was only tough because the old one was stuck in there pretty tight and I was worried I might bend the shaft somehow by applying too much pressure with the 20 ton press.

It did take me a couple minutes of worrying before I realized the transfer case flange had turned about a half inch while I was working on it. The flanges wouldn't line up at first, then I realized what happened, put the truck in neutral and turned it a little and it bolted right in.

Hope this helps someone else!

 

[tx_pwp5]

Here are the specs on the flange you guys will need:

DANA SPICER 2-2-949

Same as OEM FORD E8VY4782A

1330 Series Ford Flange Yoke to fit 7.5 inch and 8.8 inch rear ends. Designed for the SMALL Ford bolt pattern typically found on most Ford and Mustang 7.5 and 8.8 rear ends.
•FORD SMALL Bolt pattern = 2.5 inches by 2.5 inches
•Bolt Circle Diameter = 3.5 inches
•Center Pilot Hole Diameter is 2.0 inches
•1330 series ◦3.625 inches between snap rings
◦1.062 inch bearing cap diameter

Same as OEM FORD E8VY4782A

1330 Series Ford Flange Yoke to fit 7.5 inch and 8.8 inch rear ends. Designed for the SMALL Ford bolt pattern typically found on most Ford and Mustang 7.5 and 8.8 rear ends.