1998 & Newer specific Ranger problems.....

[cp2295]

look on fueleconomy.gov, this is TRS, not the import station!!

 

[Kowboy]

I did not purchase my 2000 3.0 stick XLT until it has 115,000 miles on the OD. So I can only attest to what has happened since then. I now have 155,000 miles on her and have replaced: idler pulley and serpentine belt, heater core, water pump and did the thermostat and fan clutch as precaution at that time and today the cam synchronizer and sensor. The previous owner kept super records and appears to only have done routine maintenance. She has the same tires on her as when purchased and 40 K miles later, they are still good to go. The tires did not appear to be new at purchase and I figured would need replacing sooner than this. I'm HAPPY HAPPY HAPPY! / Kowboy

 

[NIPs]

problems

leaf spring mounts in the back always rust out

 

[Bulldog3755]

The only thing I can think to add to wvcat's post is the typical driveshaft thud/clunk when starting to accelerate and when coming to a stop.

What exactly causes that and could it be a problem later on?
My 99 does it and honestly it's really bad somedays and it makes me worry


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[Bulldog3755]

I keep having two issues that I haven't read yet. Some days when I move the truck for the first time it sticks. I put it in drive or reverse but it doesn't move but the Rpms drop meaning that it's in gear. If I hit the gas in reverse I hear a bang and it moves free. I thought It was brakes sticking at first but it does it even if I don't use the E brake.
Also very rarely the truck runs like the engine is under excessive load. Say if I'm driving at cruising speed the Rpms will be higher than normal. A lot higher sometimes. Slower acceleration follows suit and only once the speedometer wasn't reading right but when I stopped, shut the truck off and started it up it ran fine.


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[broussard91]

#9 #10 #12 have all thes probs with my 99 but slave might actuly be the plunger inside truck changed mine 3 time in my truck still have a sticky clutch pedal that releases when it wants done bled the system and had it changed at diferent shops after the one i did failed

 

[Blown]

Common Problem, Noisy Power Steering Pump Fix

There are many fixes in a can or bottle that don't work. Probably many more that don't work than do. I can attest that you can count on Lucas Oil Power Steering Stop Leak. I have used it in three of Ford's noisy power steering pumps and had success in quieting all three. Quieting yes, but I can't attest to it stopping leaks yet, though we just put a bottle in my sons Dakota to see.

I used a turkey baster to remove most of the old fluid from the pump reservoir and added a full bottle of Lucas each time. Problem solved!

From Lucas:
"Universal Power Steering Stop Leak (10011) by Lucas Oil®, 32 oz. Lucas Steering Stop Leak is 100% guaranteed to stop seal leaks in power steering units or your money back. Totally corrects rack and pinion problems. It is also totally effective in reducing slack, squeals and hard spots in worn rack and pinions. Your results will be immediate and long lasting."

 

[jj46641]

I need some tips on replacing my ujoints on my 2001 ford ranger xlt 4x4 with the 4.0

 

[Mickey Bitsko]

This is a new problem on my 00' 4.0, on moderate acceleration it hesitates a couple times, can't tell if it's electrical or fuel or the 5r.. never thro's a code, I just live with it for now.
I have read a few similar complaints on this forum, no one seems to have an answer.

 

[Bruno21]

I've had my 2001 and the 1999 both randomly not fire until the third crank.
1989 Bronco II, 2.9L, Manual Trans and T-case, Manual hubs | 2004 Tahoe Z71, 5.3L 4L60E, AutoTrac 4WD, Leather, Bose, DVD, Loaded | 2009 Silverado 2500HD Duramax/Allison Crew Cab Long Bed 5" MBRP Straight Pipe, EFI Live Tuned by Longhorn Fab Shop.

 

[Mightyfordranger]

My ball joints crap out at bout 40k but the roads out here are terrible mine has this dam ding lime door ajar can't figure out what it is it'll do it for like 5 min then stop for bout 20 then do it another 5

 

[perica91]

3 problems.

PVH hubs; Easy fix, either lock them or buy the AVM hubs.
Drive shaft clunk; haven't fixed it yet.
IAC valve noise; I just replaced the valve works great now.

 

[enjr44]

My ball joints crap out at bout 40k but the roads out here are terrible mine has this dam ding lime door ajar can't figure out what it is it'll do it for like 5 min then stop for bout 20 then do it another 5

Is the seat belt electrical connections good? 5 minutes sounds like a lell of a long time though.

 

[ThomasUSMC]

Hey I'm new on the site and can't quite figure out how it all works can anyone tell me how to start a thread?

 

[Dangerrangers]

I keep getting an EGR code when the engine light comes on, I have replaced the EGR valve twice and the EGR Solenoid. I continue to get a check engine light. The economy in the vehicle has gotten worse as well. Can not find any vacuum leaks and I have changed the spark plugs. Sorry, this is a 1999 Ford Ranger with the 3.0 engine and 4X4.

1998 Mazda B4000, bought used in 2009, 14x,xxx miles, auto trans, 4WD. Since its been mine, I've:

-replaced drivers side O2 sensor (CEL)
-replaced thermostat
-replaced front brake pads and rotors
-replaced bad power steering pump (still noisy!)
-greased slip yoke (got rid of take-off/stopping thump and a really annoying whistling sound - drove me crazy) - update - whistling sound is back

still to do:h
-replace front and rear shocks
-reseal rear window, leaks during rain

I know this is an old thread but this may help someone that comes across my suggestion, reseal that 3rd brake light ,water ruined my headliner within 2 years on my 2004 that I bought new !