1998 & Newer specific Ranger problems.....

[ihateusernames]

anyone have any suggestions as to were to start if my check engine light is coming on? I have a 00 Ranger XLT. Runs strong, clutch seems fine, the light just came on this morning driving to work

 

[tobyduck]

The IAC valve humming noise can be fixed easy instead of buying it used or new. That black cap on the side is actually an air filter. just pop it off (it might take some muscle, don't be scared that it will break off) take some needle noses pliers and take the cap apart. The outer cylinder and the inside, between those two pieces are two small circles of thin cotton. Mine were black because they were so dirty, I pinched some cotton off a cotton ball (not alot, because you don't want it to get clogged because that's what causes the noise) and just put it back together.

 

[lilgreenranger]

is there a forum on the pulse vac hubs

 

[Cheezno6]

Mine does the damnedest thing every Friday.

Pulls into the parking lot of closest strip bar and dies. Won't restart for at least 2-3 hours.

Haven't figured it out yet

 

[Wildcat]

EGR Code

I keep getting an EGR code when the engine light comes on, I have replaced the EGR valve twice and the EGR Solenoid. I continue to get a check engine light. The economy in the vehicle has gotten worse as well. Can not find any vacuum leaks and I have changed the spark plugs. Sorry, this is a 1999 Ford Ranger with the 3.0 engine and 4X4.

 

[bg@f.ord]

I had to replace the fuel pump.@ about 120K I lost compression on a cylinder & had heads rebuilt,Batt.& Alt.wore out(expected).Rear diff. starting to slip & (min.) leak.I CRANKED my torsions but I installed the proper camber kit & got a lifetime alignment.31" BFG's aren't cheap.My fat a$$ & a friend fell on our ass after breaking the tailgate cables!!The seats suck a$$.I drilled ,macgyvered & installed high grade 1/4-20 hardware by the ratchet shaft & now it's solid,but the upper back support welds broke.I was told I have a cool ganqsta lean now.I hate the angle.Wrecking yard get ready.Still probably my favorite ride everrrrr!!!

 

[rustedthrough]

Oil pressure gauge flickers wildly on idling down from highway speed, straightens up at 1,000 rpm, flickers again below 1,000. No odd performance, no shaking, just the gauge. Should I be afraid?
2001 3.0, auto, 2wd

 

[RangerManxlt98]

My 98 Ford Ranger 2wd 5spd

Lets start off with I LOVE MY TRUCK, But My truck does not love me.
90k miles on it i've had it since it had 49k

So far I've had to replace the Following,
A. Alternator 2x
B. Wheel Bearings 4x (yes had an alignment the first time.
C. Battery.
D. E break cable
E. Leaf springs
F. Leaf Shackles
G. Lead Hangers
H. Rear Shocks
I. Tailgate Assembly (latch and all)
J. Had to weld the frame on both sides, in the rear about a foot section.
K. Inner tie rods
L. Outer tie rods.

Now lets get to things i need to replace

A. Door Ajar switch
B. Wheel bearings Again...
C. Clutch, i have one for it.
D. Front Shocks
E. Heat controller? ( the fan speed only works on High.
F. The Exhaust ( where the manifold Connects to the Pipe down to the cat.

And thats my ford ranger a lot of time in this truck and plan to keep it for a lot longer.

Oh Ps, sounds like my valves are rattling as well Not sure what it is. Oh and my truck cool's down REALLLLLLLLLLYYYYYY fast for some reason Anyidea's? I mean its not a bad thing for it to cool down stupid fast ( time frame of 3-10 mins) but i would like to know why thanks!!!!

 

[RangerManxlt98]

Lulz!!

Mine does the damnedest thing every Friday.

Pulls into the parking lot of closest strip bar and dies. Won't restart for at least 2-3 hours.

Haven't figured it out yet

That has to be the best ranger ever. Ford should put a navi in the rangers and have it preset to Take you to the closest Strip bar, and Won't restart for at least 2-3 hours. I'd call it the Ford Ranger Win.

 

[Green04Fx4]

rear upper shock mounts! went to change my rear shocks on my 04 with 94k upper mount stud was stripped out when i went to remove the nuts off both of them. after screwing around with trying to cut the stud off knock it out to install a new stud i just cut both mounts 0ff the frame(attached with 3 large rivets) and got new mounts.

 

[Spiky]

My problems

PV Hubs do suck. Mine finally stopped working at all. So I made them into "manual" hubs.

The biggest problem I have had is both cylinder heads cracked. (I have 98' 4.0) Once I replaced them with aftermarket european castings,( thats what the machine shop guy told me), all is fine. Apparently, there is not enough mass to disipate heat properly and they get a small crack between the intake and exhaust valve seats.

 

[phantomlord]

98 Ranger XLT, 2.5L, 5 speed with 114k miles that I bought new off the lot

factory and/or design stuff
1) Instrument cluster is a bit flaky. Tach rarely works (but shows up on my odb2 scanner, indicating the problem is in the cluster or the wiring going to it). Speedometer usually works but can fail to either a sensor failure (code comes up Speed Sensor A but it is intermittent and the sensor itself tests fine with a multimeter, leading me to think it is in the wiring and/or harness) or through the same way the tach fails (works on scanner but not cluster). Also lost a couple lights in the cluster next to the tach and speedo that I figure are probably shorting out. Oh, and I had the dealer replace the oil pressure gauge before taking it home since it didn't work on my test drive.
2) door ajar sensors
3) balancer came off drive shaft
4) alternator
5) lower radiator hose clamp lost tension leading to coolant leakage
6) fan speed resistor and harness
7) EGR hose
8) seized passenger caliper
9) driver's side window occasionally gets loose and won't fully close
10) high idle until I come to a full stop (probably related to my speedometer problem) <- cleaned the IAC and the idle is now fixed
11) seal on the back window was leaking
12) multi-switch gets flaky sometimes and will make a clicking noise rather than activating turn signals, wiper spray sometimes fails to work
13) coolant temperature sensor
14) felt some springs break in the seat back on the driver's side
15) shifter knob came off in the middle of shifting
16) plastic tab on passenger seat belt that allows height adjustment broke off
17) arm rest latch snapped off

just going to happen in NY after 13 years
1) rusted bottom of tailgate, door bottoms starting
2) wheel wells rusting out (flareside, so only the inner metal, not the external fiberglass. bed floor is fine at this point)
3) muffler and tailpipe, both twice
4) I notice rusted-through grounding straps all over the place

stuff that is more due to wear, use and/or road conditions (doesn't help that my town's roads were torn up for two years)
1) universals
2) linkage stabilizers
3) upper ball joints
4) passenger side cam kit
5) several alignments and two sets of early worn front tires
6) rear brake line (front line due to be replaced)
7) all four shocks

recent stuff I still need to fix
1) e-brake started lightly sticking on passenger drum
2) exhaust leak at the doughnut (looks like it was overtightened when I had my muffler replaced under lifetime warranty)

plus the usual regular maintenance stuff - oil, tires, brakes, etc

 

[durfey]

on my 98 4.0L

the wiring harness on top of the steering column was too short from factory and pulled pins out of the plug with the steering wheel tilted down

the idle air control valve

door ajar sensor

vacuum leak between intake manifold and plenum

''clunk'' when put in and out of gear

valve train noise

and pulse vacuum hubs

 

[ussraven61]

My Ford Ranger and I have a love hate relationship......where to start??

-Thermostat
-Radiator
-Head Gaskets X2
-Transmission
-Control arms
-Front end Springs
-Front end Calipers
-EGR valve
-Coolant temp sensor

I think that might be it so far.
Currently my radiator is losing water.....only thing is i dont know where its goin. Its not leaking from the radiator of any hoses, my oil is not milky, and its not in the floor board. Suggestions????

 

[06RangerXLT]

Mine does the damnedest thing every Friday.

Pulls into the parking lot of closest strip bar and dies. Won't restart for at least 2-3 hours.

Haven't figured it out yet

Awesome. gonna see if i can sig that one.

I keep getting an EGR code when the engine light comes on, I have replaced the EGR valve twice and the EGR Solenoid. I continue to get a check engine light. The economy in the vehicle has gotten worse as well. Can not find any vacuum leaks and I have changed the spark plugs. Sorry, this is a 1999 Ford Ranger with the 3.0 engine and 4X4.

bad MPG says to me the egr tube sould be plugged. expecially if you have replaced everything.