1996 motor wont idle

[nemesis96]

So Ive done my first 4.0 motor swap having never done anything like this before. And so it would seem that there are maybe some newbie issues going on here that I can't figure out on my own.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SHujYFsWPGk&feature=youtu.be

That's my issue. After a few minutes, it throws 6 codes

p0102
p0340
p0000x4

Also, the exhaust gets EXTREMELY red hot after only a min or two.


update!!

changed the crank sensor, no luck,
found that the firing order was backwards (previous owner)
fixed a vacuum leak where the egr valve meets the intake plenum.

Idles like a champ at 1250-1350 rpm now but the slightest tap will make the idle go all screwy, until I rev the piss out of it then it returns to an idle. Is this because the previous owner removed the MAF sensor? I am assuming thats what im missing as i have an extra 4 pin connector sitting on the passenger side where i think the MAF should go

 

[RonD]

Engine won't work without MAF sensor data.
MAF is the main sensor for this type of fuel injection, without it computer doesn't know what to do about fuel/air mix.

 

[nemesis96]

all right thanks for that info. will not having the maf still throw a crank position code?

 

[adsm08]

No, but if it runs at all the crank sensor has to be working. The computer doesn't know the engine is spinning without the crank sensor.

MAF and crank are the only two critical ones on that engine. It CAN run without any other sensors.

 

[nemesis96]

OK so then why am I still getting that code? And wtf is up with the red exhaust at idle?

 

[RonD]

OK so then why am I still getting that code? And wtf is up with the red exhaust at idle?

Red hot exhaust could be a rich fuel mix, it can melt Cat converters, so be careful.

If you are getting a bit of pinging then could be a very lean mix, this would heat up the exhaust manifolds not the Cats, and it will melt pistons and valves, so another be careful.

Either would be caused by no MAF.


Ford Code p0340 is Camshaft position sensor(CPS, in the old distributor hole), did you remove this to install the engine?
Did you use the tool to reinstall it correctly, this is the fuel injector timing device, it needs to be setup for #1 TDC compression stroke, so it can be 180deg out just like the spark plug wires were.
Computer will switch injectors to Batch fire(3 injectors open at the same time) if CPS is not working right, so engine will still run, MPG will go down.

Senors rarely fail, but are often replaced, lol.
They can all be tested with volt or ohm meter, so spend the first $25 on the meter, it will save you hundreds of dollars down the road.

A note about "codes":
They hardly ever mean a sensor or control is bad, quite the contrary.
The computer has in it's memory the ranges of all the sensors and controls, when a sensor sends data that is out of it's "range" the computer will put that in it's memory, a "history file", if it continues with data that is out of range then computer will turn on CEL(check engine light).
A sensor monitors something, that is why it is called a sensor, so if a sensor is sending data that is out of range, then replacing that sensor is like "shooting the messenger", lol.
99% of the time the sensor IS working, the system it is monitoring is NOT working, so fix the problem, don't blame the messenger.

And Ford p0000 code means something happened but no code was set, usually a history file code, if you were unplugging and plugging in sensors or controls with key on(computer on) it may have put p0000 in memory, meaning there was a problem but then it was corrected so no code to set.

 

[nemesis96]

I really wonder how the previous owner ran the truck without the MAF. Maybe that's why the engine blew.

I have the MAF from the 94 but the plug is different. Is it possible to just switch the truck plug to adapt the 94 MAf or am I better off to get a junker intake with the MAF and correct plug?

 

[RonD]

The 4 wire MAF was used until '94/'95 I think, then they added(moved) the intake air temp(IAT) sensor to the MAF so the newer MAF has 6 wires, 2 extra for air temp sensor.

I think the two outside wires are for the IAT and the 4 middle wires are for the MAF, so yes you should be able to use the older MAF.
This has the wiring diagram for the 4 wire MAF:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/CleanMAF.shtml

You will need to make a trip to the wrecking yard and get an IAT sensor and its connector, 1996 won't have one on the intake, also a 4 wire MAF connector.
Then mount the IAT sensor on upper air filter cover near MAF or on the air plenum between MAF and intake, closer to MAF(make sure hood can close, lol).
And then hook those 2 extra wires from MAF harness to that sensor.
Some of the older Fords had the IAT on the air cleaner, if you can find one of those then you would get the gaskets and everything
Also check if 6 wire MAF can be had cheap, costs nothing to ask.

I don't have the wiring color codes but they should be available


I doubt he was running much without MAF, even if you convert an older car to fuel injection(EFI) you add a MAF sensor, the injector control needs the air flow and air temp to manage the system, without some form of that you are dead in the water.
Older speed density EFI systems used a MAP sensor to "guess" the air flow, MAF sensor is better, lol.
Also just as a heads up, the air plenum from MAF to intake manifold is a "ported" vacuum area, so any holes or cracks in this tube will be the same as a vacuum leak, ALL AIR coming into the engine needs to pass thru the MAF sensor, or the system will not/can not perform as designed.
Air temp is important because "hot air rises", lol, colder air is denser than warmer air, denser air means you need to add more fuel or you get a lean mix and lose power, so..........air temp is important info the computer needs.

Carburetors used jets to monitor air flow into engine, the more air that flowed the more gas/fuel was sucked from the jets, so same thing is needed with EFI.

 

[nemesis96]

http://i62.tinypic.com/e04j9f.jpg

In the picture, the white on the left side (sitting on the intake tube) is my extra 4 pin wire. further toward the tube elbow is what I assume is the Intake Air Temp sensor. Clearly the piece above the Alt is a MAF that it out of my 94 donor. I do not see any 6 pin plug hanging around the engine bay.

So my guess is I own a partial year truck, the previous owner has hidden (cut) the MAF wiring, I've lost the wire, or something funky is going on.

*Side note*
The guy literally had a cone filter wrapped in electrical tape (to make up the extra space) and clamped on.

Also, what loom branch should the MAF wiring come out of?

 

[RonD]

On my '94 Ranger 4.0l the MAF wires(4) come from passenger side lower rad support, yes they come from the front and then under overflow tank and up to MAF

'95-'99 colors should be red, black/white, light blue/red, tan/light blue

 

[nemesis96]

Ok so I ran back and check it out. The plug on the 96 is round which is blowing my mind because I have yet to find a picture where the MAF plug is round.

The wiring colors you gave me match on both the 96 and 94 so im going to splice them in color to color and see if it blows up or something!

 

[nemesis96]

Its a no go. It jumps it's self up to 3150 rpm and holds there after about 10 seconds, cats are still Uber red hot and still a p0340 code

 

[nemesis96]

"Ford Code p0340 is Camshaft position sensor(CPS, in the old distributor hole), did you remove this to install the engine?"

thought long and hard about this just now..... did the 1994 ranger have a camshaft synchronizer?

NO. not this engine apparently. there is no ****ing synchronizer. none


http://i58.tinypic.com/2cx9u2b.jpg

(TILT HEAD TO THE RIGHT)

 

[RonD]

No, my '94 has no CPS.

But '96 should??

Your title is "1996 motor won't idle"

So what do you have?
1996 engine?
1996 computer and wiring?

 

[nemesis96]

the engine is from a 94. this really blows....

Alright so are the internal components there for me to install a Cam Synchronizing sensor or am I quite literally ****ed?