1994 Ranger XLT Driver Side Lock Stuck

[RangerRyan50]

My lock has been stuck on my ‘94 for a few years and I am sick of getting in the passenger side and reaching across to unlock the door. If I use the door handle from inside the truck it will unlock, but it will not unlock with the key. I tried the WD-40 trick and it did not work. The handle also feels a little looser on the driver side than the passenger side. Does anyone know how to fix this?

 

[black_demon69]

Probably just a clip of some sort

Take the door panel off and inspect

 

[RobbieD]

The door handle has a hinge pin which can slip out of position, becoming uncentered and letting one end come loose. Sounds like what you've got going on. Pull the door panel and see if you can get at it for a look. From that point it's easy to unbolt the handle assembly and get it out of the door where you can work on it, or replace it if needed.

 

[holyford86]

The lock cylinder and door handle are independent of each other, the lock cylinders corrode and then they dont turn. I've had reasonable success removing them and soaking in penetrating oil for a couple days. you don't even need to remove the door panel to get them out, there's a big clip on the edge of the door you can remove and the cylinder will then come out.

 

[mr_manny]

I've been dealing with a stubborn-to-open passenger door since I purchased my new-to-me bronco II.

Both doors were sagging, so I had the hinge-pin bushings replaced.
The body guy adjusted the door latch, but the problem seemed worst.
If you slowly close the door, you will get a feel for the alignment of the door latch.
With patience, you will identify any sort of up/down movement when closing.
I adjusted the latch, eliminating any movement but problem persisted.

I then focused on the exterior passenger handle...it had noticeable play/looser feel.
I pulled the door panel, and identified a rod that gets pushed down by the exterior handle. I reduced the amount free-play, by carefully straightening the rod.
I imagine over the years these door-mechanism rods compress...creating free-play.

Even with free-play removed, passenger door would not open from the outside.
Only way to open the door is to lower the glass and give it a pull, or with the interior handle and some persuasion.

Last resort was to try some lithium grease on the latching mechanism...problem solved
With the latch aligned, passenger door now closes and opens effortlessly.

To-do list on my bronco is getting shorter and shorter...cheers

 

[scotts90ranger]

Will the key turn or not in the drivers door? If it won't turn it's something stuck in the tumbler, one of the pins is stuck partially in or overcompressed. In that case your best bet is to spray some light oil (WD40 or the like, maybe start with brake clean) then stick the key in a couple dozen times... they're brass pins in an aluminum housing... If the key spins and it doesn't unlock the door the clip that holds the linkage on the lock fell off, if you're lucky you can just pull the cylinder out (the big clip by the door latch like mentioned in a post above) and look over to the lock and the linkage might just be dangling then you just need one of the linkage clip kits (Dorman Help section of an auto parts store) to connect it.

Really not a huge job, when I got my '97 it had a wrong door on it that was white (on a red ranger) with no matching key or door panel, I got a '94 door at a junkyard where I had to mixmatch the latches between the two and ran with it as is for a while until I figured out how to get the cylinder apart to figure out how to rekey it, I think I only have 3 out of 5 pins but it's enough to keep me safe in the places I take a 25 year old hooptie

 

[SenorNoob]

Rekeying these early lock cylinders is easy, just tedious and time consuming. Especially if you are cutting tumblers down to get the right length. Sure makes for a smooth working cylinder afterwards tho.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Rekeying these early lock cylinders is easy, just tedious and time consuming. Especially if you are cutting tumblers down to get the right length. Sure makes for a smooth working cylinder afterwards tho/

The early ones are easy just taking the clip off the back, on the later ones (must be '93 and newer if I had to guess) you have to take off the stainless trim piece on the outside to get them apart, pain in the rear...