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1993 5.0 Wanting 30+ Degrees Initial Timing


Does your timing light have advance? Maybe it went wonky on you?

Have you tried a second timing light? Two timing lights wouldn't be wrong.

If a distributor was off a tooth... chances are there wouldn't be enough adjustment on the distributor to get it to run. They typically pop and bang when off.

Did this truck and engine drive normal before this timing issue? If so... cam timing is... or was correct...
 
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Thing that can cause that:

Wrong timing pointer.
Wrong balancer.
Slipped outer ring on balancer.
Vacuum leak.
Really aggressive cam.


I’d start by putting a vacuum gauge on it and adjust the timing to the highest vacuum reading you can.
 
Thing that can cause that:

Wrong timing pointer.
Wrong balancer.
Slipped outer ring on balancer.
Vacuum leak.
Really aggressive cam.


I’d start by putting a vacuum gauge on it and adjust the timing to the highest vacuum reading you can.
If @snoranger 's suggestion (this is the most accurate way I ever seen timing performed) does not work, then you have a set up issue.
 
Does your timing light have advance? Maybe it went wonky on you?

Have you tried a second timing light? Two timing lights wouldn't be wrong.

If a distributor was off a tooth... chances are there wouldn't be enough adjustment on the distributor to get it to run. They typically pop and bang when off.

Did this truck and engine drive normal before this timing issue? If so... cam timing is... or was correct...
No advance on the timing light, but i can sure try another one. Yeah really no pops or bangs, still sounds like its rich popping sometimes. The truck has been driving at fairly high initial timing before, but now that i fixed the ECU, it wants more.
 
Thing that can cause that:

Wrong timing pointer.
Wrong balancer.
Slipped outer ring on balancer.
Vacuum leak.
Really aggressive cam.


I’d start by putting a vacuum gauge on it and adjust the timing to the highest vacuum reading you can.
Timing pointer matches the block and balancer, and balancer hasn't slipped as the numbers still consistently line up. I cant hear a vacuum leak but i can smoke test it again. The whole roller assembly, cam and heads are out of a 98 explorer longblock but the rest are mustang parts. Block is a 89 f150 block, would they use different balancers?
 
It’s early and my vision is crap at 4:30 am so I don’t think I missed this prior in a post.

mod you don’t have a piston stop, either buy one or make one. Spark plug hole type.

Procure a 4 inch 5/16 all thread bolt or something similar. Break the center out of a spark plug so you have just a steel base. Run a 5/16 tap down the center. It won’t be quality threads but will be plenty to behave as needed. Clean of chips, install the base in #1 cyl. Pull balance of plugs for ease of work. Rotate crank CW till you’re close to your presumed tdc. Screw that bolt in a good ways. Finish gently till the crank stops rotating. Make a tiny dot on front edge of balancer at timing pointer. Rotate the crank CCW till it stops again, do so gently make another mark at timing pointer.
Get a flexible tape measure or ruler, the little cheesy pocket tape measures are perfect. Remove stop from #1.
Rotate crank CW till from under the car you can access both marks. Measure as precise as you can and split the number, making a mark in middle. This is true TDC, there is no other way on an installed engine to obtain. If you can file a tiny permanent notch in balancer front edge at middle mark, do ao.

Buy a cheap timing tape of correct length for your balancer diameter.
Sand the balancer outer surface to mostly brute, unless balancer is new. Degrease with acetone/mek/etc. spray clear rust oleum type paint on it everywhere the tape will be touching. Wait 10 mins. Apply tape with tdc /0 lined up with the files notch (a tiny notch, you will likely never use again). Smooth tape with clean fingers. Spray a light coat of clear again and walk away for 24 hours. You will have absolute precision to your assembly and no question of timing marks/pointers.
It is wicked easy! The biggest pisser is breaking the center out of a plug.

Until you do this, you’re assuming way too much about mixed parts, etc. Find TDC proper then see where you’re at. Maybe all is perfectly well and your not at 30 initial.

Or you can buy a stop, I did and it’s crap. Summit brand, too short to do anything on my 5.0. Garbage waste of money. 5/16 bolt, nice and long, plug, tap, done.

good luck with it

not responsible for heinous typos in this text. It’s 4:30 am and coffee has yet to enter bloodstream.
 

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