1989 Bronco II Spring questions

[Tedybear]

It's about that time to get the front end worked out and get the rear end (of the truck) also worked out.

I found the install height of the springs to be 10.5 inches for the coils. This way I'll know if it makes sense to replace the springs/if they need replacement..or if my alignment is totally hosed for camber.

Now in reference to the rear springs. A normal spring looks like it has a mild 'arc' to it. My springs look like they have a reverse 'arc' effect going on where the axle mounts.

We have a local firm that does nothing but spring work. The manager stated they could 're-arc' the springs for $45 a pop, if I carry them in.

I'm wondering if it would make more sense just to replace them all together-- I can get a used set for about $55ish per side. Or would I be better served by installing "Explorer" springs as per the tech part of the site? I'm not looking for a suspension lift per-say at this time. More or less to get the truck back to normal. If the explorer spring would be a better solution? What is the axle code so I can look them up online?

Thanks!

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[jkent]

IMO, if your rear springs have reverse arc, they're no good. I'd look around for different spring packs. As far as explorer springs, depends what your intentions are down the road.

 

[Tedybear]

IMO, if your rear springs have reverse arc, they're no good. I'd look around for different spring packs. As far as explorer springs, depends what your intentions are down the road.

I can believe it. Currently the only thing holding the rear end from bottoming out would be the helper spring boosters I put on two years ago.

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[Tedybear]

1993
Leaf Spring Rear
Ford Explorer (spring code), code U 4 LEAF-75K A

Would these do the trick? They are only 10 bucks higher then having them rearc'd and they are from a local salvage yard.

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[jkent]

Those should work fine, just look them over good and make sure they aren't all used up as well. Here is an article from the tech library that should cover most of your questions...

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/ExplorerLeafs.htm

Just be aware that by using explorer leaves, you may lift the rear due to the leaves being thicker.

 

[Tedybear]

Not worried about lifting to much in the back end. Considering I'm running extra wide rims and 235 tires? A little lift will keep the tires from wacking into the wheel wells when I hit the usual pot holes.

I'll probably go with MOOG cargo coil variable springs for the front end. I was considering just the heavy duty ones, but the moog's I've used before and they are actually cheaper then the normal heavy duty. Should be interesting, I've got the auto with A/C...which the A/C got booted a few weeks ago. No more A/C compressor or any of the hoses blocking off the top 1/2 of the engine.

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[Surrey]

Yeah I would just go get some explorer springs outta the JY.

You might get 1.5" of lift of so outta them, but thats nothing to really complain about.

Might be an idea to look into getting a coil thats slightly bigger than stock to level the truck, or you can just get some washers for a spacer under your coils, both should do the trick just fine.

 

[4.0B2]

explorer rear leafs..
explorer front coils..

from a pull it yourself lot... I can get all these local for like $50... for all 4.

 

[jkent]

explorer rear leafs..
explorer front coils..

from a pull it yourself lot... I can get all these local for like $50... for all 4.

this^. As he stated, you'll save yourself a good chunk of change if you pull them yourself. Plus, you'll be able to look for the set of coils/leafs you want, not the set the JY gives you.

 

[Surrey]

4-door automatic with A/C Explorer.

 

[Tedybear]

this^. As he stated, you'll save yourself a good chunk of change if you pull them yourself. Plus, you'll be able to look for the set of coils/leafs you want, not the set the JY gives you.

Ughhhhhhhhhh...


Got nipped by our landlord where I work and had to do a butt load of work on the entryway to my store. There went several weeks time.

Okay, this is an option. We have several pick and pulls in the area. I need to know exactly what type explorer to look for (as in year and such)

Also I would need to know any special tools needed to bring along. Sense the yards here won't allow power tools of any kind? It'll have to be all hand tools.

(worse case is I can still default over to the local yard...but I'm in the pit by over 200 for repairs on the store and won't get the $$ back for 3 weeks.)

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[Surrey]

You shouldn't need any special tools. Just a good ratchet/socket set, wrenches, and a cheater pipe. Hammers are always useful too.

As for year of explorer, Anything thats 90-94 would do. You can easily identify them from a newer one because they have the TTB front suspension, just like your B2. 95+ got the newer SALA style or whatever its called.

I say Auto with A/C only because they would have the biggest springs, but for your application it wouldn't really matter anyways. Try to get all 4 from the same truck, but if you can't, try to keep the fronts from one truck, and the rears from another, so they are settled to the same height side-to-side.

 

[Tedybear]

Well, that's doable. My socket set covers 1/4 and 3/8th.

Anything odd about the coil springs? I know the F150 springs require special installation. If the explorer springs are pretty much "Plug and Play" and I'm okay with running stock height shocks? It's a decent plan of attack.

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[lil_Blue_Ford]

Explorer springs are the same length and width as BII springs, just a heavier pack. Stock shocks *should* work because at most you should see no more than 2" of lift over factory ride height (if your springs are already sagged out, its going to look like a LOT more than that when you're done. Springs on these trucks often take some time to settle in after being removed and reinstalled - even by using used stuff. Nature of the beast. Just ride around on it for a week or so before thinking about an alignment.

Best way to do the front coil springs is to jack it up, put jackstands under the frame (preferably by the front bumper), pull the tire and let the axle down. You may have to have some pressure on the axle or not for undoing the nut that holds the coil to the top of the axle, it'll take a 1 1/8" socket or wrench. When you have the nut off, take all the pressure off the front axle and pull the jack. You may have to put pressure down on the end of the axle to get the spring fully clear and it takes a little wiggling to get it off the tabs at the top.

The challenge with leaf springs is that the bolts often get seized in the bushings because of rust. Sometimes you can work them free, sometimes not. My preferred method anymore is to buy new bushings and bolts. I'll take a 4.5" angle grinder with a zip disk and cut the bolts on both sides of the spring pack and drop it out, then take the torch and burn out the bushing. Fastest and least amount of hassle (I've done springs a number of times, lol). Depending on where you live though, the bolts may come out without too much trouble, always worth trying. I use similar size grade 8 bolts for replacement or the 10.9 metric if I can find them.

While I have leaf packs out, I'll often remove the centering pin and put new pad ends on (little teflon plastic things) and put a new centering pin in. You'll probably have to pull the centering pin anyway to flip it to be able to put the "new" spring pack in.

 

[Tedybear]

Good information. I didn't think about the 1 1/8 socket or wrench. My set only goes up to an inch. The bigger stuff is in the impact set I have up in the barn I normally work out of.

I'm also hope full this will get rid of the problem I have with "Axle Wrap". The old springs clearly have a reverse arc effect going on, and the helper springs can only do so much.

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