1988 Ranger 2.0 problems...

[tomw]

The diaphragm is for the 'choke pulldown'. Once the engine starts, the pulldown will pull the choke plate open enough to 'run'. Vacuum in the intake gets strong enough with the engine running to overcome the choke apply spring.
Most 'idle control' motors on carbs were more 'idle control solenoids'. They projected a rod with a hex-shaped end that pushed on the carburetor throttle linkage. They were not strong enough to open the throttle plate by themself, but once the key was in the ON position, pressing on the gas pedal to set the choke(allow it to spring closed & move the high idle cam) would also prop open the throttle plate a bit.
When the key went to OFF, the solenoid relaxed, and allowed the throttle plates to close completely, thus preventing 'run on' after the ignition was disabled. Hot engines of the time would try to diesel at shutdown, and if the throttle was open the slightest, they'd keep gurgling on, and the semi-firing produced a pile of unburned emissions that was very noxious to smell(at least).
Anyway, if you have an idle control motor or solenoid, it would be connected to the linkage, or a part of the linkage alongside the carburetor. Got any pictures?
tom

 

[2dawson]

Thanks everyone for the help. I have to go out of town today for a couple days and will only get to think about the Ranger while I'm gone but will resume troubleshooting when I return.

This truck was purchased from my neighbor "as is" to use as a Home Depot/Lowes runner. I started it up before I bought it and it ran fine but I didn't let it warm up enough to come off fast idle so I missed the problem. It has sat for a few years so maybe the carb just needs cleaning. I can't find a carb kit for it so I'll have to be very careful with gaskets, etc. It appears the accelerator pump isn't doing anything and I hope the diaphragm is ok.

I'm glad I only had to pay $400 for it.

 

[Mark_88]

Now that tomw mentioned solenoid I do recall on the back side near the firewall there was a solenoid that was connected to the linkage. That may be what is called the Idle Control Motor.

$400 is a good price for a running truck with not much to fix.

Accelerator pump might be suspect if the engine does not rev up when you hit the gas. Anyway...pretty much what I bought my Ranger for since my Tempo couldn't carry much more than me and a bag of chips...

 

[tomw]

I need a picture of what is installed, close up enough to see, but not so close I can't tell where I am... Wishes.
An accelerator pump produces a squirt of fuel, liquid, directly into the venturi when the throttle plate is opened rather quickly. The need for this is the density of the two ingreedaments to the fuel:air mix. Air coming in will get sucked quickly into the manifold, as in RIGHT NOW. Fuel, on the other hand, will take a bit longer to get moving through the passages and jets of the carburetor. Result: Lean mix and cough/hesitation/chug.
Solution is to add a 'shot' of fuel directly via the accelerator pump, just enough to get past the acceleration lag of liquid fuel. Once it gets going, the fuel will stay moving in reaction to the increased flow through the venturi.
Check by observation down the throat of the carb. Engine OFF for safety. Air cleaner removed. Move the throttle quickly towards WOT, observe down the throat, looking for a squirt of fuel. If no squirt, check that the throttle linkage is moving the arm that operates the accelerator pump. Adjust as necessary if it is mal-adjusted. If the linkage is working, you may disassemble the pump(four screws in most cases) and gingerly separate the pump from the body. There should be a diaphragm and spring. The spring will push the diaprhagm 'outward', making the operating shaft at its fullest travel away from the carburetor. There should also be a check valve that allows fuel into the pump body, and stops back-flow of the fuel into the float bowl. It may be stuck or crudded up. If so, clean it and PBT. Check for operation.
There may be other carburetors (models) that have many of the same or similar parts & gaskets to yours. Search for images using your model, and see if similar show up. Some were used in 'stationery' engines and 'tug' applications, and may not be 'emissions compatible' at the time, but will/may have the exact same components for many of the bits & pieces, but not have the 'active vent' control and such other things required by emissions laws. They may work perfectly well even though they lack the 'details'.
tom

 

[2dawson]

Unfortunately, I'm not going to be near the truck for the rest of the week. I'll start on it again when I get back in town. I'll take some pictures other than the ones I posted earlier.

I need a picture of what is installed, close up enough to see, but not so close I can't tell where I am... Wishes.
An accelerator pump produces a squirt of fuel, liquid, directly into the venturi when the throttle plate is opened rather quickly. The need for this is the density of the two ingreedaments to the fuel:air mix. Air coming in will get sucked quickly into the manifold, as in RIGHT NOW. Fuel, on the other hand, will take a bit longer to get moving through the passages and jets of the carburetor. Result: Lean mix and cough/hesitation/chug.
Solution is to add a 'shot' of fuel directly via the accelerator pump, just enough to get past the acceleration lag of liquid fuel. Once it gets going, the fuel will stay moving in reaction to the increased flow through the venturi.
Check by observation down the throat of the carb. Engine OFF for safety. Air cleaner removed. Move the throttle quickly towards WOT, observe down the throat, looking for a squirt of fuel. If no squirt, check that the throttle linkage is moving the arm that operates the accelerator pump. Adjust as necessary if it is mal-adjusted. If the linkage is working, you may disassemble the pump(four screws in most cases) and gingerly separate the pump from the body. There should be a diaphragm and spring. The spring will push the diaprhagm 'outward', making the operating shaft at its fullest travel away from the carburetor. There should also be a check valve that allows fuel into the pump body, and stops back-flow of the fuel into the float bowl. It may be stuck or crudded up. If so, clean it and PBT. Check for operation.
There may be other carburetors (models) that have many of the same or similar parts & gaskets to yours. Search for images using your model, and see if similar show up. Some were used in 'stationery' engines and 'tug' applications, and may not be 'emissions compatible' at the time, but will/may have the exact same components for many of the bits & pieces, but not have the 'active vent' control and such other things required by emissions laws. They may work perfectly well even though they lack the 'details'.
tom

 

[2dawson]

Well, I finally got back in town and had time to work on the Ranger. I pulled the carb and cleaned it. I found a lot of crud and plugged up jets and orifices. I put it back on and now it runs. I still have an idle problem but it is because that idle control motor does nothing. I just screwed the adjustment screw in until it keeps it running, a bit fast, but it stays running.

Now the problems are down to the gauges (fuel, coolant temp, and ammeter) not working. The oil pressure gauge seems ok.

Also the big fuel leak when I fill the gas tank. It leaked for a long time, I guess until it got below wherever the leak is. If I had a gas gauge I could tell where it stops and just never fill it above that level. I guess I'll put a gas can in the back and watch the mileage until it runs dry or drive a 100 miles and add a few gallons.

 

[Mark_88]

Thanks for the update...

My 88 had a leaky gas tank also...along the seam that is welded together so I had to replace it outright and it was not cheap at the time.

The rough idle might be due to the Idle Control Motor but I had another look at the images on e-bay and couldn't tell what that might be. There is a round ball looking thing on one side that looks like it might be connected to the linkage but hard to tell exactly. There should be two wires connecting to the carb with one going to the choke and the other going to the control motor...see if there is two sets of wires and trace them if you can. Might find what you need in that mess.

 

[2dawson]

I replied to this shortly after reading it but I must have failed to hit submit or something because it did show up.

Leaking at the seam is what I’m afraid of. My friend has a lift and we’re
going to check it out.

The two wires are there, one connected to the choke and the other, which
has four wires, goes to the idle control motor, on the passenger side
front of the carb. There is a test procedure in the Haynes book and it
fails that so I guess I’ll live with it until I can find one.

 

[tomw]

If your tank leaks at the seam, you might be able to use one of the 'coating' mixes that is used to cover rust, and prevent more. I'd think it would fill a seam leak.
If not, check with local boneyards or LMC truck parts - lmctruck.com - in Lenexa KS. Craigslist will many times have 'parting out' vehicles that could provide what you need.
tom

 

[2dawson]

Thanks, I'll check on the rust coatings. I've found tanks online for as low as $79 shipped, if it comes to that.

I'm afraid this truck is going to be the gift that keeps on giving.

If your tank leaks at the seam, you might be able to use one of the 'coating' mixes that is used to cover rust, and prevent more. I'd think it would fill a seam leak.
If not, check with local boneyards or LMC truck parts - lmctruck.com - in Lenexa KS. Craigslist will many times have 'parting out' vehicles that could provide what you need.
tom

 

[Mark_88]

For what it's worth with that truck it is better to simply replace the tank outright...not cheaper but better. Either way you will need to remove the tank, maybe replace the straps in the process, and reinstall it so the amount of work is lessened by the amount of work needed to seal the tank.

The cost is also offset by the materials needed...say even $10 for the sealer...but how much is involved to obtain that and all the other odds and ends and the time spent in the prep and then everything else.

These tanks are really easy to swap and there is no fuel pump in the tank so just unscrew the retainer for the sending unit (fuel gauge) and pop the sender into the other unit...lift it up and strap it in...

Biggest problem is removing the bed if you go that route (highly recommended to do that) or simply drop the tank...and I could give you numerous good reasons to remove the bed other than ease of access. But then there would be more work involved if you wanted to refinish the frame...or at least remove some rust and spray or coat it with something...more cost but it is an investment that you will never regret other than you didn't do it better...lol

 

[2dawson]

Removing the bed won't be easy on this particular truck as someone installed a bed liner and put MANY sheet metal screws through the liner and into the bed. I'm sure the bolts holding the bed on are rusted in. I'll certainly look at it when I get it on a lift.

I want to figure out the fuel gauge problem before I tackle the tank in case I have to replace the sending unit. I suspect that it is the instrument voltage regulator since the coolant temp and ammeter don't work either. It appears that the regulator is common to all three gauges. I've searched and can't seem to find one for the '88.

For what it's worth with that truck it is better to simply replace the tank outright...not cheaper but better. Either way you will need to remove the tank, maybe replace the straps in the process, and reinstall it so the amount of work is lessened by the amount of work needed to seal the tank.

The cost is also offset by the materials needed...say even $10 for the sealer...but how much is involved to obtain that and all the other odds and ends and the time spent in the prep and then everything else.

These tanks are really easy to swap and there is no fuel pump in the tank so just unscrew the retainer for the sending unit (fuel gauge) and pop the sender into the other unit...lift it up and strap it in...

Biggest problem is removing the bed if you go that route (highly recommended to do that) or simply drop the tank...and I could give you numerous good reasons to remove the bed other than ease of access. But then there would be more work involved if you wanted to refinish the frame...or at least remove some rust and spray or coat it with something...more cost but it is an investment that you will never regret other than you didn't do it better...lol

 

[Mark_88]

If it's just a beater then it doesn't matter too much if the bed is done. Problem with rust is it spreads once it sets in and before you know it your frame is toast. But unless you plan to keep it more than a few years it probably isn't worth the extra work. If the frame is good and you want to rebuild it then it's best to do something soon as possible
.
These trucks with the carb are pretty much EMP resistant since they don't have a computer...and if that never becomes a problem I'm all the happier...but they also don't require too much technological understanding or, for that matter, much maintenance once you get them running and stay on top of things.

I never had a problem with any of the gauges on my 88...only thing i ran into was wire harness decay over time...which could be part of your problem if the connectors are pooched. Be careful handling the wiring when possible...and maybe get some grease for the connectors to keep them protected as well as shielding the wires...makes a big difference in reducing corrosion.

 

[2dawson]

This is definately a beater truck, just for the occasional household hauling job.
I'm reluctant to spend much more money on it. If I can get the gauges working I'll probably stop.

If it's just a beater then it doesn't matter too much if the bed is done. Problem with rust is it spreads once it sets in and before you know it your frame is toast. But unless you plan to keep it more than a few years it probably isn't worth the extra work. If the frame is good and you want to rebuild it then it's best to do something soon as possible
.
These trucks with the carb are pretty much EMP resistant since they don't have a computer...and if that never becomes a problem I'm all the happier...but they also don't require too much technological understanding or, for that matter, much maintenance once you get them running and stay on top of things.

I never had a problem with any of the gauges on my 88...only thing i ran into was wire harness decay over time...which could be part of your problem if the connectors are pooched. Be careful handling the wiring when possible...and maybe get some grease for the connectors to keep them protected as well as shielding the wires...makes a big difference in reducing corrosion.

 

[tomw]

Run a google search: "1988 ford ranger instrument voltage regulator" and you will get returned items that should work. Around $18-20 each. The regulator snaps onto the flexible circuit that connects the gauges & bulbs to the wire loom.
You'll have to remove the ashtray, the snap-in panels at the lower edge of the instrument panel, and the cover panel. The leftmost snap-in removal requires pulling the headlight switch. You'll have to reach under and depress the pin on the headlight switch while pulling on the knob. Once released, you can push the knob & shaft in to turn off the headlights (or disconnect the battery, likely a better idea).
You can just get the panel to squeak out by pulling the top edge towards the steering wheel while using a putty knife to get the panel free of the padded cover. Slide it to the right and you'll have access to the cluster.
The cluster has 4-6 screws(memory?), and will then be almost free. Remaining are two wide push in wiring connectors and the speedometer cable. The cable has a plastic end that has to be 'leaned' in one direction to get free of the groove in the speedo head. The electrical connectors have tabs on both ends that need to be compressed to release the connector, but will snap in when re-installing.
The regulator will be attached to the back side of the cluster, one screw and two snap connectors similar to a 9-volt battery.
tom