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1986 Ford Ranger 2.0 Idle/Stalling Problem Help!


I took off my EGR valve and it was totally gunked up to the point the valve wouldn't move. I was able to clean it out w/ carb cleaner and wd40 and get it moving again, reinstalled it, but didn't fix the problem.

I've physically held the butterfly valve open, but didn't disconnect it, no help.

Mine was like that too...full of gunk...I actually removed the carb and cleaned out the passages to the PCV valve and the inside of the carb...if the EGR was plugged up there is a good chance that those parts are too...you will see it when you pull the carb...

OK...so the choke did not help...and cleaning the EGR did not help...have you recently moved the distributor...as in turned it either clockwise or counterclockwise?

I used to adjust my Idle partially by doing that...and it is really simple to do...just loosen the bolt at the base of the dizzy...and, since you have low idle, try moving the dizzy counter-clockwise as this tends to advance the idle...
 
Mine was like that too...full of gunk...I actually removed the carb and cleaned out the passages to the PCV valve and the inside of the carb...if the EGR was plugged up there is a good chance that those parts are too...you will see it when you pull the carb...

OK...so the choke did not help...and cleaning the EGR did not help...have you recently moved the distributor...as in turned it either clockwise or counterclockwise?

I used to adjust my Idle partially by doing that...and it is really simple to do...just loosen the bolt at the base of the dizzy...and, since you have low idle, try moving the dizzy counter-clockwise as this tends to advance the idle...

At some point, yes, I'm just going to dismantle that entire carb. I'm sure, like you mentioned, it is gunked up completely.

51706918.jpg


So do I need to take the distributor cap, ignition rotor, and cap adapter off to adjust this? Any chance I could get shocked to shit?

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This image below is what my EGR vac line runs to (along with a couple other vac lines). All of the nozzles are plugged it seems like. I tried blowing through them with no success. Are they supposed to be plugged!?

getimagec.jpg


You know whats funny, I didn't realize it was a plug and unscrewed the damn thing. Needless to say I had what looked like radiator fluid pouring all over my driveway :headbang:
 
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the other thing i would check, and dont laugh, on your exhaust manifold, theres gonna be an 02 sensor, now for everyone who says theres not 02 sensors on a carb engine, your wrong. search for my thread "pc valve removed' and you will see a clear picture of it. i would def. replace that. should be just before your down pipe on the exhaust manifold

I finally read this thread. I'll have a look tonight and see if I can spot it.
 
Update: I removed the entire carb. Oddly, it looks very clean inside. I blew through all the vac hook ups with no problem, and all the parts seemed to move easily.

Remember, everytime I lean out the air/fuel mixture by opening a vac line and letting fresh air be sucked into either the carb or the intake manifold, the idle issue seems to improve or go away completely.

Is there any part of that emissions hook up that forces/pushes air into the carb/intake? I know every vac line like the back of my hand now, but don't know which vac lines are "supposed" to pull or push air.
 
hmmm, disconnect your vacumm line going to the brake booster and plug it. mine idled low when i had it hooked up because mine was shot. give it a shot. your brake booster might be leaking
 
Try what BlackWidow suggested and unplug your booster (and plug up the tube) to see if the issue goes away...

To turn the distributor slightly you do not need to remove the cap if you can get an 11/16" wrench on the bolt to loosen it off...the bolt is at the base of the distributor close to the block...if you do not have A/C or power steering it is easy to get at...but otherwise remove the cap (you don't have to unplug the wires in most cases) and you can access the bolt from the top...just turn it slightly to see if the idle goes up...if not...something else is at play here...

BTW, your PCV should have two tubes...one goes to the base of the carb and the other is usually plugged...that connector looks more like plumbing for for your cooling system...
 
Try what BlackWidow suggested and unplug your booster (and plug up the tube) to see if the issue goes away...

To turn the distributor slightly you do not need to remove the cap if you can get an 11/16" wrench on the bolt to loosen it off...the bolt is at the base of the distributor close to the block...if you do not have A/C or power steering it is easy to get at...but otherwise remove the cap (you don't have to unplug the wires in most cases) and you can access the bolt from the top...just turn it slightly to see if the idle goes up...if not...something else is at play here...

BTW, your PCV should have two tubes...one goes to the base of the carb and the other is usually plugged...that connector looks more like plumbing for for your cooling system...

I will try what blackwidow suggested. I'm not sure what the brake booster line is, but I will look for it. I will also try this distributor idea.

My PCV valve has the top connection plugged, the bottom (larger) goes into the base of my carb.
 
the line that is going into your brake booster, the thing attached to the brake master cylinder, ok disconnect it there, and plug it with a bolt or something and see if your truck idles any better.
 
I will try what blackwidow suggested. I'm not sure what the brake booster line is, but I will look for it. I will also try this distributor idea.

My PCV valve has the top connection plugged, the bottom (larger) goes into the base of my carb.

thats how mine was. its fine like that as long as you have a pcv valve connected
 
Couldn't find a vac line anywhere near my master cylinder. Nor a brake booster. Maybe from these pics you can identify it.

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1001102a.jpg



1001103s.jpg


I removed the wires and cap from the distributor, but still didn't find a bolt that would allow me to turn it.

1001106.jpg
 
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the bolt that alows you to turn it is on the bottom of the dist. it bolts into the block, its kinda in a tight spot.
 
From the looks of you dont have a brake booster. You dont have power brakes!!! I tried to get a picture of the bolt for the distributor but it really is in a tight spot. It is located between the bottom of the distributor and the block. Hope that helps you.
 
haha its alright! This truck is bare bone everything, no a/c, power brakes, power steering, radio (previous owner installed one), nothing.. I'll have a look at the bolt for the distributor tomorrow.

Even if I did bring the truck to a mechanic, would he really be able to identify the problem? I consider you guys pretty good online mechanics, oh well I'll keep looking. :)

I can't tell you how much you all have been such a huge help!
 
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Wow...another no booster brake master...that's two I've seen in the last six months...lol

Well, I will be honest here (again)...I was having a similar problem with my truck when I had the 2.0 and since I had to have the E-test done I decided to take it to a Ford "expert"...it was a girl technician, and she spent at least four hours trying to find out how my vacuum system worked...and she kept telling me not to toss the carb because it could be many things...

$300 later she had no idea what the problem was (remember, this was a Ford Dealership) and they gave me an estimate of $2,000 to fix everything...but they did pass the E-test for me...conditional, but it was passed...had extremely high ratings for Hydrocarbons and something else that I forget...

Turned out it was the carb and once I changed that I took it back for another E-test two years later...it failed by 25 points on the Hydrocarbons but everthing else passed...and that would have been better if I'd tuned the carb a bit and tossed on a new cat...

Anyhow, that was my experience...and yours may be the carb...

<chanting> two barrel, two barrel, two barrel...

lol
 

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