1986 Ford Ranger 2.0 Idle/Stalling Problem Help!

[ianthegreat]

Update: When I unplug some of the vac lines, and let the engine suck free air in.. it seems to help the problem, but I am noticing a little more white smoke out the tail pipe and much more of a gas smell.

I replaced the PCV valve. When I unplugged that and started the engine, it would rev pretty high. I could stick my finger over the hose and regulate myself the amount of air and I could get it to idle perfectly. But again, I noticed some white smoke out the tailpipe. After replacing the PCV valve, and plugging it back up, same problem, low idle to the point of stalling. I'm running really rich it seems like.

Could it be my emissions air pump? Throwing out ideas. It's just funny that when I unplugged some of the vac lines from the air pump/emissions thing or the PCV valve, it seemed to run better.

 

[RangerFabWorks]

whats happening is when you unplug a vacumm line, your leaning out the air fuel mixture. to me it either sounds like two things, (1)- your mixture screw is outta wack, (2) your baseplate on the carb is loose, (3) the carb has sucked up junk from the tank and is now screwed up. i would pull the carb off, take the top of it off. and clean it out real good. also check to make sure to replace the gasket underneath it.

and the way we can tell its a reman carb is because reman carbs are bronze, and yours is extremely clean. original carbs are silver i believe.

 

[SykoRanger88]

i would run some Seafoam in it for the heck of it, 1/2 in gas tank 1/2 through a vacuum line.

 

[ianthegreat]

whats happening is when you unplug a vacumm line, your leaning out the air fuel mixture. to me it either sounds like two things, (1)- your mixture screw is outta wack, (2) your baseplate on the carb is loose, (3) the carb has sucked up junk from the tank and is now screwed up. i would pull the carb off, take the top of it off. and clean it out real good. also check to make sure to replace the gasket underneath it.

and the way we can tell its a reman carb is because reman carbs are bronze, and yours is extremely clean. original carbs are silver i believe.

From what I've read, most factory carbs don't allow you to adjust to mixture screw due to emissions issues. I've looked for it, but I can only find the screw that adjusts my idle and another one right next to it, but I don't think it has anything to do with air/fuel mixture.

So your assumption is probably something with the carb and not with my air/emissions pump on the other side of the engine?

 

[RangerFabWorks]

From what I've read, most factory carbs don't allow you to adjust to mixture screw due to emissions issues. I've looked for it, but I can only find the screw that adjusts my idle and another one right next to it, but I don't think it has anything to do with air/fuel mixture.

So your assumption is probably something with the carb and not with my air/emissions pump on the other side of the engine?

the air pump only feeds fresh air into the catyletic converter. this has nothing to do with how your engine runs. it simply keeps your exhaust valves from burning out.

now, there is a mixture screw on that carb. it is on the left side of the carb, near the front. on the valve cover side. its hard to see but if you look hard enough, youll see it.

 

[ianthegreat]

I'll go look for the screw right now.

Just for shits I used a can of seafoam. 1/3 in oil, 1/3 in gas tank, 1/3 sucked in through the PCV line. No instant noticeable improvements, I think something like that would take a day for the chemicals to really eat at the carbon deposits. I'll change my oil tomorrow.

 

[ianthegreat]

I think I found the air/fuel mixture screw. Played with it a little and couldn't get the idle to change much if any. Just throwing it out there that it is a total PITA to adjust that screw on that side of the carb.

 

[RangerFabWorks]

I think I found the air/fuel mixture screw. Played with it a little and couldn't get the idle to change much if any. Just throwing it out there that it is a total PITA to adjust that screw on that side of the carb.

yes i know, been there done that. i finally had mine running good, had my carb mixture right. had it timed. new plugs, new wires, new rotor, tightened my vacumm advance cause it was falling off. fixed all my vacumm leaks. new pcv valve. and 2 days later, she blew apart the number 2 piston. pretty sick carnage.

 

[SykoRanger88]

imo if these troubles dont get solved soon, id just trash that reman and get a good 2bbl, also when my truck blows im gonna most likely find an old 302 for it.

 

[Mark_88]

Question for the OP...did you try disconnecting the choke?

The choke actually causes the engine to idle higher in most cases so that may not help your situation...it's just the most glaring thing that is obvious from your pics...your normal rpm should be around 800...did you manage to get a tach reading on it?

 

[ianthegreat]

I have not tried disconnecting the choke. I could try that. My truck also has an idle control computer on the passenger side wheel well. Should I unplug that?

Here are some pics of it from another forum thread I've been getting advice from. It basically mirrors this one but with different pics.

http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2134916&postcount=3

 

[RangerFabWorks]

hmm they changed the computer layout from 84. i have all the computer crap leftover from mine if ya want it. pm me.

and i cant see why disconecting the idle computer would hurt anything. but just for craps and giggles, plug the vaccumm going to your vaccumm advance on the distributer.

 

[ianthegreat]

Is it possible to clean an EGR valve? I remember unplugging the vac line and noticing no suction or air blowing out of it, wonder if that could be an issue? They are stupid expensive though.

What do you think about this replacement reman carb? He said it has electric assist with hot air choke, but mine was fully electric. Not sure if this would be a problem. Would love to go with a holley 2bbl or something else, but am not confident enough in my ability to install/tune something aftermarket.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...em=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT&salenotsupported

 

[Mark_88]

Is it possible to clean an EGR valve? I remember unplugging the vac line and noticing no suction or air blowing out of it, wonder if that could be an issue? They are stupid expensive though.

What do you think about this replacement reman carb? He said it has electric assist with hot air choke, but mine was fully electric. Not sure if this would be a problem. Would love to go with a holley 2bbl or something else, but am not confident enough in my ability to install/tune something aftermarket.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...em=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT&salenotsupported

I would just try disconnecting the choke and, if necessary, prop open the butterfly valve and see what happens...the chokes can become wonky and stick partially closed...causing low idle...if they are fully closed you will get, usually, high idle...

If that isn't the problem then it could be a wonky carb...

 

[ianthegreat]

I took off my EGR valve and it was totally gunked up to the point the valve wouldn't move. I was able to clean it out w/ carb cleaner and wd40 and get it moving again, reinstalled it, but didn't fix the problem.

I've physically held the butterfly valve open, but didn't disconnect it, no help.