1985 2.0 liter ignition problems

[cariboo4x4]

We broke the star wheel that sets off the PIP in the distributor. I welded it back together with my mig and it worked for a bit. Now it will not run. Seems like no parts store has them in stock anymore. I looked on the internet and I can get an entire dist. from:

http://www.autopartsgiant.com/parts...6802+4294967247+4294967173&Nr=AND(universal:0)

Anyone ever order from there? Or does anyone here know of a place in BC Canada that can get us the star wheel in the distributor?

Last time we had the engine running we had to remove the starter wire off the top peg of the starter solenoid and run power directly from the battery to keep the engine running so we could drive it. Now with the star wheel hooped we are looking for another star wheel and wondering if the duraspark box needs replacing. I'm wondering if I can upgrade tyhe 2.0 liter ignition system to a newer style too.

Any help would be awesome

 

[Mark_88]

I recently read on this board that the distributor from the 2.8 will work with the 2.0/2.3 engines...if you have a junkyard nearby or can locate the part for the 2.8 then you may be in business...

I never order from on-line places because in Ontario we have a surplus of junkyards...must be the salt...

 

[cariboo4x4]

Thanks for the tip. We managed to get the truck running today but only if we applied the wire straight from the battery to the small starter wire. I traced this wire to the duraspark box so we figure as we apply battery power to this wire it keeps the engine running. Has anyone here ever tested the duraspark box to see how it runs when the truck is running? I think its the box but buying a new box from ford is $200 and I don't want to buy a new box if thats not the problem

 

[cariboo4x4]

The ford mechanic at Ford has told us to replace it... but then again we can't return it if its not the problem....

 

[Mark_88]

I picked up a spare from the junkyard for just such an occasion...just like MAP and some other sensors for my Tempo that they charge you "a nominal egg" for...

I don't mind buying the part if that is going to fix it, but throwing money at parts is not the best way...unless you like being angry at someone...

 

[cariboo4x4]

Engine will only run when being cranked over so this is what works to keep engine running but would prefer to find what the real problem is:
1. turn key to "on"
2. Disconnect wire from "s" post of starter relay.
3. run 12 volt jumper wire from battery to wire that attaches to "s" post of starter relay.
4. quickly touch these joined wires to "s" post on starter relay, engine cranks, starts and continues to run.
5. to turn engine off either turn off key or disconnect jumper wire from battery. Either way, disconnect jumper wire from battery before leaving truck.

So my freind Steve emailed me yesterday and says:

If I remember correctly, this system used an MCU module mounted in the engine compartment to control the carburetor air/ fuel ratio. It used an older style Dura spark ignition module (the square box mounted on the fender well). My wiring diagrams for these older models are not as good as I would like them to be, but I believe I can assist you in repairing your truck. There are two power supplies to the ignition module and the ignition coil, one during cranking (bypass) and another during key on. When you jumper the starter solenoid as you describe, you are applying power to the cranking bypass circuit at all times. From your description, I suspect that you have lost the power that you should have during key on. Disconnect the ignition coil connector. At the coil positive terminal (red/ light green wire), check to see if you have power during key on. If you don't, then we need to determine where it has been lost. If you do have power there, then disconnect the ignition module connector and check to see if you have power at the red wire with key on. Let me know your results and I'll assist you further. Steve

ANYONE HAVE MORE INSIGHT INTO THIS OR SIMILAR PAST PROBLEM?

 

[cariboo4x4]

JUST SAW THIS AND WILL CHECK IT OUT TODAY!!!

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24432

 

[cariboo4x4]

Ignition switch looks tight but maybe broken inside? Do I shear those two pins off to get it off?

 

[cariboo4x4]

I figure the ignition switch is faulty but instead of taking it apart I managed to change some wires. The 2 pin plug that goes to the module...(1) coming from the module I attached the white wire to the white wire on the other plug, (2), I attached the red wire coming from the module to the battery side of the coil, (3) The 2 red wires that split out of the back of the plug I cut right off the plug and kept them joined together. Seems to start excellent and keep running. I even noticed the white wire from the module does not even seem to need to be connected to anything to make everything work but I attached to the other white wire instead.

 

[Mark_88]

Cool~

Only 8 posts and you've hot-wired your Ranger...

 

[cariboo4x4]

So far so good, and my buddy drove his truck home and will be coming out again today so I'll see if anything is fried!