1356m/1354e doubler project info

[RangerSVT]

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I'm planning a 5.0L swap with an E4OD trans in a month or so. I have the 1356m t case that I got with the trans, and my truck runs a 1354e. I'm no so worried about shifter linkage as I'm using a cable. the 56 will be the doubler. my question is has this combo been tried?? I think the E4OD output shaft is 32 spline, could I use the input shaft for the 54, spline the end to go into the 56 and then fab a sleeve to go over the input shaft to match the diameter and splines to go into the 56?? The thought behind this is, i snot to turn down the hollow shaft, but add to it to match the other case, if you follow what I'm saying. Also, if that is not possible, or not feasible, what about machining a new piece that makes the output gear of the 56 and the input gear of the 54 all one piece, basically taking the splined coupler and joining together both splined sections together as one, since I don't see that it has to engage/disengage, it stays engaged 100% of the time. What are your opinions on this setup??

 

[AllanD]

I presume that the 13-54 would be at the back of the doubler?

On a V8 truck...?

Good luck.

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[04 EDGE]

good luck getting the 1356 between the frame rails!

 

[RangerSVT]

Yeah, the 54 will be the rear case, and the 1356 will be the reduction box. As far as it fitting between the rails, no problem there as the front output of the 1356 will be removed, just the reduction part of that case will be in the truck.
AllenD, do you think that the 1354 will not be able to handle the load?? I plan on later using a Dana 20 as the rear case, but I have not got my hands on a case to build it yet, so I was planning on using the 54 for now. I read that they hold up behind V8's, but of course that's not a V8 thats been doubled...my choice for this front case is 2 reasons, 1-that it bolts directly to the transmission I'll be using and 2-it has a slightly better gearing (2.69 vs 2.42)
Got the case (54) apart last night and I had seen where I can't make all one piece, but I should be able to keep the whole input shaft for the 54 the same diameter as the splines, then machine a second splined piece that fits the output of the 56 then mate the two together. Since I'm not machining the shaft down, I'm not reducing the strength of the shaft...Has anyone thought about making the shaft this way rather than the two piece design??

 

[AllanD]

Adapting your 13-56 to accept an 13-54 doubler then LATER converting
to a Dana20 basically means starting over from scratch.

IF you are adventurous I strongly suggest you look into
one of those systems that uses the "Reduction box" from an NP203
though usually they want YOU to provide the 203 parts

I HAVE an NP203 here, it belongs to my brother, but I can ask
him if he wants to sell it.

Doing it "right" the first time generally winds up being cheaper in the end
than anything you do for expedience.

As for what case to hang behind that 203 reduction box?

Only ONE comes to mind: NP205.

If you have a 203 reduction box backed by an NP205 it'll stand up
to anything short of a forced induction 460.

"Look Ma, No Chains!"

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[RangerSVT]

Yeah, I hate chains, I originally looked at yota cases, as they are geared, compact, and good gear choices with aftermarket. You're right and I agree about do it once and right, however I already have both the 1356 and the 1354, as well as a 1350E, where as I don't have a D20 yet or the cash to buy one right now. With the 1354 already in my truck, all I have to fab is the 1356 (which I already have) which bolts up to my very near engine and trans swap. I would just swap in the 1356, but I'd run into clearance issues with my frame, and the 1354 will not directly bolt up to the E4OD...quite a dilema