Lukey81 Thank You!
Q:
Anything you would change as an afterthought?
A: Not really, maybe a couple of things...and I'm always willing to give a critique. Just put the work in realizing that to remove the shock, the lower A arm will need to be dropped. Since you won't have the exact kit that I started out with, make sure that the structure that both shock ends connect to are well engineered to support the force of the shock. That is where it connects to the lower A arm & the upper frame mount better known as the "shock tower".
My next step would be to try a "dual rate" spring assembly. The Eibach 800 pound / inch spring is a tiny bit stiff for my stock trim level (no added weight, example- a winch on the front), so while maintaining the added in 2 inch lift, so far so good, but the ride could be slightly softer but only during the initial 1.5" of travel. The adjuster is apx 30% up the threaded section. So that gives me interest in running a softer spring coupled on top of the main 800 Eibach spring, pls note that the final length will be the same height & travel. I should include the stock # but Eibach uses their part numbering system is very simple....2.0-800- (Dia - lbs/in - length) in inches. I would need to change both springs to incorporate 2 springs on each shock to have a "dual rate" setup. Other manufacturers offer a non linear wound spring that someday I may tryout. This setup is more for a much longer shock where installing a "shock hoop", however enjoying a longer A arm(s) and then a longer front drive axle. One day perhaps.
These are FOX 2.0 diameter shocks.
The Shock. Well affordable, just take the time to fabricate a reservoir plate and test fit it to make sure that your tire won't hit it. I really should purchase a nitrogen shock servicing kit, bottle included. The fit is very tight, but still plenty of room to do it right. So take your time. Spend a few days up on the jack stands to look at the situation such as the small amount of room needed to move the stock brake line over and what the area should look like while you weld in the tower gussets. (
Edit: Fox service techs state that adjusting the nitrogen shock pressure is NOT a way to adjust the compression.)
Take your time to do the custom installation right. Which is a development along the way, ongoing until all the parts are in their place and the only thing left to do is
tune 2 things,
your overall design & your adjustments within that design.....
So that's the only 3 things I still need to try-
1)
Tune the nitrogen shock pressure lower by 10-20% (stock 60/40 valve timing is fine).
2) Try a dual rate spring system (see Eibach spring catalog or other).
3) Soften up the rear axle initial spring rate, it's stiffness makes the front receive weight transfer rather quickly.
4) Top out straps & bottom out bumpers. So far I've had no issues at either end of travel- so far. I removed the stock bottom out bumpers, I believe the shock springs stack up solid at full travel & the springs don't become loose at any point fully extended. Start looking at the exact shock model I used referring to the full extended & compressed lengths.
FOX P/N: 980-02-040. (Copied from Kartek.com)....
Factory Series 980-02-040 Dimensions:
Setup For Single Spring Rate
12" Maximum Spring Length
Typically Customers Purchase a 12" Spring
2.0" Diameter
5.0" Travel
16.420" Extended
11.420" Collapsed
2" x 8" Reservoir
12" Reservoir Hose
0.625" Shaft Diameter
1.25" Mounting Width Between Tabs
Uses 1/2" Shock Bolts
40 Compression / 60 Rebound Standard Valving
5) Inquire if FOX will add a 90 degree fitting to their reservoir.
Please post here any questions you may have, I believe I covered my main concerns along the way here in the Yellow Sub thread, but also feel free to start your own thread and I'll be looking forward & watching, replying with the rest there also. Remember (in shear) Grade 8 hardware for the shocks! - Doug
Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and 
