Workshop plans

[rumblecloud]

Probably cutting it pretty close with the weight rating there...

My bad...it's a 2 ton version - if that's what you meant by the weight rating.

 

[Shran]

My shop is a typical stick built building with 10' walls framed with 2x6s. I used I think R13 insulation in the walls and like R30 in the ceiling...all fiberglass. It stays pretty warm. I would probably use spray foam if I had built a pole barn although I'd probably try to do it myself... I think I had about a grand into fiberglass, having someone spray foam would have been 2-3 times higher than that. Kinda depends how warm you want it... I wanted to be able to make it 60 or 70 degrees inside when it's below zero outside.

Dunno what to suggest for a lift. I should have done 12' or 14' walls, my next shop will be bigger and taller... I'm basically in the same boat, I could do a shorty 2 post but that would be mostly useless for my purposes since I can't stand up underneath it. Might as well just do a rolling scissor lift... either way I'd only be changing tires or oil with it so what's the point. If your rafters are open and/or far apart, a 2 post positioned just right could be made to work though, you could get a cab between them. My buddy's pole barn rafters are like 8' apart, plenty of space.

 

[rumblecloud]

My shop is a typical stick built building with 10' walls framed with 2x6s. I used I think R13 insulation in the walls and like R30 in the ceiling...all fiberglass. It stays pretty warm. I would probably use spray foam if I had built a pole barn although I'd probably try to do it myself... I think I had about a grand into fiberglass, having someone spray foam would have been 2-3 times higher than that. Kinda depends how warm you want it... I wanted to be able to make it 60 or 70 degrees inside when it's below zero outside.

Dunno what to suggest for a lift. I should have done 12' or 14' walls, my next shop will be bigger and taller... I'm basically in the same boat, I could do a shorty 2 post but that would be mostly useless for my purposes since I can't stand up underneath it. Might as well just do a rolling scissor lift... either way I'd only be changing tires or oil with it so what's the point. If your rafters are open and/or far apart, a 2 post positioned just right could be made to work though, you could get a cab between them. My buddy's pole barn rafters are like 8' apart, plenty of space.

I'm leaning toward the pink stuff. The spray foam is expensive and I've read in a couple of places that fiberglass keeps it warmer if it's done right. Plus I can do that myself. I'll have to pay for the concrete. Roughing in the interior walls and running a 220 line I can also do. The lift is something that can wait, but has to be figured into it now. But like you I'm not really sure how much I'll actually use it.

Has anyone epoxied their floor? I'm not sure how that would hold up to the changes in temp during the colder months when I'm heating it up for few hours

 

[franklin2]

My shop is a typical stick built building with 10' walls framed with 2x6s. I used I think R13 insulation in the walls and like R30 in the ceiling...all fiberglass. It stays pretty warm. I would probably use spray foam if I had built a pole barn although I'd probably try to do it myself... I think I had about a grand into fiberglass, having someone spray foam would have been 2-3 times higher than that. Kinda depends how warm you want it... I wanted to be able to make it 60 or 70 degrees inside when it's below zero outside.

Dunno what to suggest for a lift. I should have done 12' or 14' walls, my next shop will be bigger and taller... I'm basically in the same boat, I could do a shorty 2 post but that would be mostly useless for my purposes since I can't stand up underneath it. Might as well just do a rolling scissor lift... either way I'd only be changing tires or oil with it so what's the point. If your rafters are open and/or far apart, a 2 post positioned just right could be made to work though, you could get a cab between them. My buddy's pole barn rafters are like 8' apart, plenty of space.

I never ran into anything I could not do with under the lift with the 10ft ceiling. I could not stand under the lift, but that never caused a problem.

 

[Shran]

You can get unfaced fiberglass insulation - that's what I used on my walls. Cover it with some thin plastic drop cloth sheets stapled to the studs for a vapor barrier and you're good, unfaced is cheap too. The ceiling was the expensive part, I used kraft faced for that.

I would never, ever, ever, ever, ever paint or epoxy the floor of a building I'm working in. It will chip off and look like ass very quickly. Beer drinking room? Sure. Instead, I would recommend just having your concrete guy put a very smooth finish on it and seal it - done deal, easy to sweep and it always looks the same no matter how much work you do in there.

 

[Shran]

I never ran into anything I could not do with under the lift with the 10ft ceiling. I could not stand under the lift, but that never caused a problem.

If I have a lift I want to be able to stand straight up under a vehicle that's on it. I just feel like it's a necessity for me personally... I don't want to be hunched over running a grinder or not have a transmission jack fit under it.

I think for cars and short vehicles it's probably not a big deal but if we're talking about even a stock Super Duty like mine, a couple feet off the ground has the cab touching the ceiling.

 

[franklin2]

If I have a lift I want to be able to stand straight up under a vehicle that's on it. I just feel like it's a necessity for me personally... I don't want to be hunched over running a grinder or not have a transmission jack fit under it.

I think for cars and short vehicles it's probably not a big deal but if we're talking about even a stock Super Duty like mine, a couple feet off the ground has the cab touching the ceiling.

I thought a tall truck would be a problem too when I was using my lift and you are right, you can't lift it as high as a car. But I found out even though you can't lift the truck as high, it already has more room under it before you even start to raise the lift so it's not a problem. I did a complete c6 to zf transmission swap on my f250 with the lift like that with no problems.

I made myself a custom scooter with wheels on it to sit on and roll under the lift when working. One difference is you need to access the underneath from the front or the rear on the scooter, it's too difficult to duck your head and go under the side on a 4 post lift. But with the scooter there is no head ducking, just when you roll past the rearend which is normal for when you are standing under a lift also.

I have a 12ft+ ceiling now with the lift, and I do have more options and it's a little nicer. But if all you have is a 10ft ceiling you can make it work. I am so spoiled now having a lift at home to do oil changes and other work.

 

[bobbywalter]

MaxJax®

The M7K. The bigger, badder MaxJax®. Everything you loved about the M6K is back, but now with an even higher lifting capacity. Our engineers found a way to let you safely lift up to 7,000 lbs. while still retaining a minimal footprint. Thanks to its unique portable two-post design, the MaxJax...

www.maxjax.com

I would prefer to heat the new slab.... With actual lowtox coolant not water with a gas boiler if geo is too much of an issue...

. And isolate it as the work shop. That is not cheap. But a very comfortable luxury.

Otherwise use a mr cool minisplit. Very cost effective. I prefer AC when possible and it does both.

There are tons of options for movable lifts...

 

[rumblecloud]

Update:
Concrete getting poured this week - Wednesday, weather permitting. 6-inch, gravel base, 4,000-psi and rebar.
Took a week to clean all the crap out. Excavate and pour the first day. Clean-up and cut lines day two.
Fingers crossed. Prayers said.

 

[ericbphoto]

What fun is it going to be if your creeper rolls across it smoothly and easily?

Sounds like you'll have a good solid floor. I hope it goes well.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Yay!

I just looked at that MaxJax link... I see possibilities. Add a cup holder to the chair... a head rest.... turn on my big fan... I could probably even take a nap.

 

[cschannuth]

The spray in gives you much better insulation and makes your building much more airtight. Unfortunately it is several times more expensive than the pink stuff. In a pole barn, since you don’t have normal stud spacing you would either have to add studs for the pink stuff or use a spray in. You would also have to add a ceiling if you’re going to use the pink stuff.

 

[rumblecloud]

I've looked at the spray in and unfortunately, the cost is way outta my range. Believe me, I would love that, but...
I hafta keep my head down for a bit after paying for the floor - the CFO is not really happy about that. Next is the wall that separates the work shop from the rest of the barn. And then go from there.

An interesting side note is in talking to the concrete contractor, who's company also builds Pole Barns, said to not even bother with the insulating the walls. It would be more beneficial to simply lay a hard foam ceiling over the 10 foot rafters of the engineeed roofing joists. Since most of the heat loss is up not out. He mentioned percentages and crap and my eyes started to roll back so he stopped.

So we'll see. Right now I'm just happy to get the floor in.

Thanks for all your comments and interest.
r

 

[Shran]

I agree that insulating the ceiling or at least just sheathing the ceiling is more of a priority than the walls but both are definitely important... Especially in a pole barn, they almost always have a lot of gaps to leak heat just because of how they are constructed. And uninsulated walls will sweat... It's especially bad if you use an invented heater.

 

[franklin2]

I would talk more with the pole barn people. I thought they had large insulating blankets that are white on one side for the large spans in pole barns?