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What did YOU do today?


Blmpkn

Toilet enthusiast
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Southern maine
Vehicle Year
2023
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Ford Bronco
Engine Type
2.3 EcoBoost
Engine Size
2.3
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
2.5"
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285/75/18
My credo
Its probably better to be self deprecating than self defecating.
What if I roll the base coat on, or buy a gallon and spray the base coat with my spray gun? Then I’d just have to use the rattle cans for the freehand striping…

Idk.. I think the man himself should be consulted lol @Rick W .. we require answers!
 


Lefty

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Ranger Edge
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You’d be surprised. With proper prep a rattle can job can last quite a while. My truck was originally all dark blue. I added a better silver bed and thought if I painted the middle of the bed blue & top / bottom of cab silver Id have a classic’70’s two tone look. Its been 4 years now and still looks good. Only bad thing is the hood, probably from all the underhood heat. But since its meant to look older I think its fine.

Today I finished christmas shopping. greeting cards & gift cards. A little impersonal but less time, hassle and maybe a little less money. So call me scrooge, since you see christmas stuff in stores since late september, by dec 1 im just ready for it to be over.View attachment 102475View attachment 102476View attachment 102477View attachment 102478
These days you can buy 2 part epoxy rattle cans which are every bit as good as the original paint. I've used them already and had some very good luck. They seem to be easier (more forgiving) to apply too.
 

Rick W

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
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Age
68
Location
Atlanta
Vehicle Year
1997 1987
Make / Model
Ranger XLT x2
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0 & 2.9
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
97 stock, 3” on 87
Total Drop
N/A
Tire Size
235/75-15
My credo
Never put off ‘til tomorrow what you can put off indefinitely
They say the biggest part of solving the problem is understanding that there is a problem. 😂. I’m glad to see we’re making progress now that I have your attention

For complete disclosure, I don’t think rattle-can Rustoleum is bad stuff. But like anything technical, it’s all about the use and desired outcome. If used properly, it’s certainly OK for cosmetic accents. And while it may last years, I consider it a temporary application. 🧐

I was raised in the north, when a rust bucket really was a rust bucket (like my $135 1962 3WD Chevrolet pick up). There were parts on that truck where the only thing that held it together was the Rustoleum. Then I think about all you guys up north now, and a lot of the rust issues and rot you guys write up and have to deal with. It looks like some of you guys do all kinds of incredible complete and hard and fine work, cutting and welding in new pieces etc., and then the rattle can appears. Tsk tsk.

One of the reasons I love the Rustoleum is because the steel doesn’t have to be perfectly clean, the Rustoleum will penetrate and seal as well as coat. I’ve mentioned before, if there are intricate parts and spots that you can’t get to, starting with a 50-50 mix with mineral spirits, slopped on, will penetrate all the nooks and crannies. Then subsequent coats will stick to and cover that first coat (if applied within 48 hours), and you end up with a very good long-term protection.

As regards spraying it on, while a spray finish can be much smoother in appearance, simply by the way it works, it’s not near as thick, and does not provide the same long-term protection. The best combination of protection, durability, and nice finish would be to use the 50-50 mix, then brush on a decent coat, and then sand and finish it with a spray coat.

@lil_Blue_Ford ‘s blue camo with rattle cans will work, because then when he has to touch up that spray stuff over and over and over again, it won’t show.

@Blmpkn , I did not totally discard you, we only took 10 points off, and I provided you a pathway to have that penalty eliminated if you did the right thing.

@ericbphoto , it’s good to see you’re on the right track, but if you want to make the right impression on “those who know,” you might want to edit your picture to this:

IMG_0676.jpeg


I am quite impressed with the HFT/dollar store brushes, however.

@Lefty seems to understand all this, referencing a 12-month warranty on a rattle can job. Who ever gets 90% of the way down the road on a warranty, and then turns in the claim?

@racsan seems to have the fundamentals under control. On that accent on the hood, if you sand it with an 80 grit, and you mix the Rustoleum 70/30, and roll it on with a foam roller, on a 60 or 70° day in the shade, it will smooth out and probably outlast the truck.

As regards @Lefty ‘s two-part epoxy, you can probably get a better finish, and the stuff is hard as nails, and will be durable, but it doesn’t penetrate as well as the Rustoleum, and it is not designed for direct application on metal or rusty metal. You can get condensation, and then rust, between the epoxy and the base metal where there are voids.

Finally, if you’re going to take the time and attention to accomplish something like @bodied91ranger ‘s dream truck, this whole conversation is moot. I love the Rustoleum because it’s relatively dirt cheap, and relatively easy to get a very nice result for the money.

Please revise your papers before Monday.

As always, I hope it helps…

(and, @bodied91ranger, one quart of Black Rustoleum will cover your truck in one coat if you’re careful, and you use a foam roller).
 
Last edited:

Lefty

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Ranger Edge
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They say the biggest part of solving the problem is understanding that there is a problem. 😂. I’m glad to see we’re making progress now that I have your attention

For complete disclosure, I don’t think rattle-can Rustoleum is bad stuff. But like anything technical, it’s all about the use and desired outcome. If used properly, it’s certainly OK for cosmetic accents. And while it may last years, I consider it a temporary application. 🧐

I was raised in the north, when a rust bucket really was a rust bucket (like my $135 1962 3WD Chevrolet pick up). There were parts on that truck where the only thing that held it together was the Rustoleum. Then I think about all you guys up north now, and a lot of the rust issues and rot you guys write up and have to deal with. It looks like some of you guys do all kinds of incredible complete and hard and fine work, cutting and welding in new pieces etc., and then the rattle can appears. Tsk tsk.

One of the reasons I love the Rustoleum is because the steel doesn’t have to be perfectly clean, the Rustoleum will penetrate and seal as well as coat. I’ve mentioned before, if there are intricate parts and spots that you can’t get to, starting with a 50-50 mix with mineral spirits, slopped on, will penetrate all the nooks and crannies. Then subsequent coats will stick to and cover that first coat (if applied within 48 hours), and you end up with a very good long-term protection.

As regards spraying it on, while a spray finish can be much smoother in appearance, simply by the way it works, it’s not near as thick, and does not provide the same long-term protection. The best combination of protection, durability, and nice finish would be to use the 50-50 mix, then brush on a decent coat, and then sand and finish it with a spray coat.

@lil_Blue_Ford ‘s blue camo with rattle cans will work, because then when he has to touch up that spray stuff over and over and over again, it won’t show.

@Blmpkn , I did not totally discard you, we only took 10 points off, and I provided you a pathway to have that penalty eliminated if you did the right thing.

@ericbphoto , it’s good to see you’re on the right track, but if you want to make the right impression on “those who know,” you might want to edit your picture to this:

View attachment 102481

I am quite impressed with the HFT/dollar store brushes, however.

@Lefty seems to understand all this, referencing a 12-month warranty on a rattle can job. Who ever gets 90% of the way down the road on a warranty, and then turns in the claim?

@racsan seems to have the fundamentals under control. On that accent on the hood, if you sand it with an 80 grit, and you mix the Rustoleum 70/30, and roll it on with a foam roller, on a 60 or 70° day in the shade, it will smooth out and probably outlast the truck.

As regards @Lefty ‘s two-part epoxy, you can probably get a better finish, and the stuff is hard as nails, and will be durable, but it doesn’t penetrate as well as the Rustoleum, and it is not designed for direct application on metal or rusty metal. You can get condensation, and then rust, between the epoxy and the base metal where there are voids.

Finally, if you’re going to take the time and attention to accomplish something like @bodied91ranger ‘s dream truck, this whole conversation is moot. I love the Rustoleum because it’s relatively dirt cheap, and relatively easy to get a very nice result for the money.

Please revise your papers before Monday.

As always, I hope it helps…

(and, @bodied91ranger, one quart of Black Rustoleum will cover your truck in one coat if you’re careful, and you use a foam roller).
I have had great luck with Rustoleum. Some of you may remember that I restored an old Ranger this way. Rustoleum will last a lot longer with a krylon acrylic urethane spray clear coat. I recommend this over others because it will not wrinkle up if the Rustoleum is slightly dusty.

But it is not at all my first choice. It's merely the cheapest. I prefer to paint in the classically approved methods, prepping by sanding, cleaning, primining with 2K primer, etc.

But if all that seems like a screaming bore, then I recommend Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator. It comes in a rattle can or just in a can. Napa makes
something similar and there is no shipping cost. This stuff lasts as the label claims. It also is more compatible with other automotive paints.
Screenshot 2023-12-01 162802.png
 
Last edited:

Rick W

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
TRS Event Participant
Joined
May 15, 2020
Messages
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Age
68
Location
Atlanta
Vehicle Year
1997 1987
Make / Model
Ranger XLT x2
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0 & 2.9
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
97 stock, 3” on 87
Total Drop
N/A
Tire Size
235/75-15
My credo
Never put off ‘til tomorrow what you can put off indefinitely
And in between classes, I picked up my new 50 or 60 year old Sears charger. I had the same one for many years, and it died in a lightning strike along with a bunch of my stuff. I just found this one for $10, and this one has a timer and a trickle function. Important thing is to keep up with technology as it advances.

IMG_0677.jpeg


it has a couple dry/frayed wires, but that’s an easy fix.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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TRS Banner 2012-2015
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Location
Calgary, Canada
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'91, '80, '06
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Ford, GMC,Dodge
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4.0,4.0,5.7
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Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
And that is one that can be used for an electrolysis tank power source, unlike the new ones.
 

Rick W

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Age
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Location
Atlanta
Vehicle Year
1997 1987
Make / Model
Ranger XLT x2
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0 & 2.9
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
97 stock, 3” on 87
Total Drop
N/A
Tire Size
235/75-15
My credo
Never put off ‘til tomorrow what you can put off indefinitely
Wow! I just liked it because it was indestructible and easy to use, usually gave a pretty quick charge. I had no idea I could take the hair off my back with it!

IMG_0678.jpeg
 

pjtoledo

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Full wave DC output????? :dntknw:
 

Rick W

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
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Joined
May 15, 2020
Messages
2,052
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Age
68
Location
Atlanta
Vehicle Year
1997 1987
Make / Model
Ranger XLT x2
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0 & 2.9
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
97 stock, 3” on 87
Total Drop
N/A
Tire Size
235/75-15
My credo
Never put off ‘til tomorrow what you can put off indefinitely

Rick W

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
TRS Event Participant
Joined
May 15, 2020
Messages
2,052
Reaction score
3,370
Points
113
Age
68
Location
Atlanta
Vehicle Year
1997 1987
Make / Model
Ranger XLT x2
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0 & 2.9
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
97 stock, 3” on 87
Total Drop
N/A
Tire Size
235/75-15
My credo
Never put off ‘til tomorrow what you can put off indefinitely
Full wave uses both sides of the alternating current, although not at 100% efficiency. And oversimplification, but the modern chargers only use the half of the AC that’s pushing in the right direction, and it dissipates the other side of the alternating current. Tapping off the one side, also allows all of the modern features for trickle, charging and such.

This oldie but goodie says it drops to a trickle charge, but I think in reality it drops 1/2 of the AC, and drops the current down to a steady one amp, hence you could still over charge the battery. The new chargers, work on a feedback loop that constantly drops voltage until the battery is 100% charged, and then they click on and off periodically, double checking if it’s still at full charge, and topping it off at a low current if needed.
 

Gary DuBois

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2002
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245 cubic inch
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
0
Total Drop
0
Tire Size
31 inch
Like the title states.... what did you do today? Anything fun? Doesn't have to be ranger related at all.



I.... swamped my wheeler 😣😑 on the first time out this year. All thanks to my lackluster memory. The back corner of the airbox has a little rubber hose that comes off of it.. in case of water intrusion. The idea is that the *little* bit of water that made its way Into the airbox will find its way down into the little tube and not get sucked through the filter Into the motor.

I 100% forgot that I took that stupid little tube off last year to drain it/clean it... and never got back around to installing it.. so when I found myself framed in a water hole that got MUCH deeper since last season...

View attachment 96500

...water was able to bubble up through the bottom of the airbox to about half way up the filter and it eventually ingested some.

View attachment 96501

^^my milkshake after we got back to where we put in. Belt box was also full lol.

So.. tomorrow we start the arduous process of deswamping. Yamahas are some of the more difficult motors to flush out... could take 8-9-10 times of drain-fill-crank.. drain-fill-crank.. drain-fill-crank... ugh. Wish me luck!
I rode my metamoov 3000w electric scooter around where i live for about 7 miles and up to 31mph.
I have a faulty battery so i can not go 45mph and 52 miles on a full charge
I love my metamoov zo08 its a fun and nice looking electric scooter that helps with my mild autism =)
 

Blmpkn

Toilet enthusiast
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Location
Southern maine
Vehicle Year
2023
Make / Model
Ford Bronco
Engine Type
2.3 EcoBoost
Engine Size
2.3
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
2.5"
Tire Size
285/75/18
My credo
Its probably better to be self deprecating than self defecating.
I rode my metamoov 3000w electric scooter around where i live for about 7 miles and up to 31mph.
I have a faulty battery so i can not go 45mph and 52 miles on a full charge
I love my metamoov zo08 its a fun and nice looking electric scooter that helps with my mild autism =)
That's a bummer about the faulty battery.. any way to warranty it?
 

Gary DuBois

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2002
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Ford
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4.0 V6
Engine Size
245 cubic inch
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
0
Total Drop
0
Tire Size
31 inch
That's a bummer about the faulty battery.. any way to warranty it?
Happy December To You Blmpkn =)

I have contacted the company zondoo that makes my metamoov scooter and they want me to record a short video and send it to them and i have done that but now they want another video. I have had to replace alot of screws on that scooter with my dads help. My dad told me to enjoy that scooter how it is and he thinks i would not enjoy shipping it back even if they were able to repair that scooter.
 

Gary DuBois

Active Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2017
Messages
288
Reaction score
119
Points
43
Age
32
Location
Puyallup Washington
Vehicle Year
2002
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
245 cubic inch
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
0
Total Drop
0
Tire Size
31 inch
That's a bummer about the faulty battery.. any way to warranty it?
They sent a faulty to me in the first place i can tell how decals are misaligned and a bolt was not tightented completley but the other same bolt was tightneded completey, My metamoov decals are misaligned.

I will just enjoy that scooter until it breaks then sell it or give it away for free. And maybe but a 2nd zo08 metamoov or buy a more powerful version from that zondoo company. It seems strange because the company gave me a phone number that was in chinese and i couldn't understand what they were saying.
 

JoshT

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1999
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Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
sat around the house hoping the rain would go away so I could work on one of the trucks.

I've also spent hours waiting to place a bid in an online acution for a mini excavator. First time trying one of these auctions and man am I glad I didn't go to the auction in person. Auction st arted at 8:30 or 9 am, at 3:45 pm it's up to lot 830. The mini excavators start at lot 1220. I'd have been waiting all day for a bid that I'm probably going to loose anyway. I've got two different models I'm looking at with a hard limit of $5k for one and $3500 for the other, after tax and fees that'd put total price at a worthwhile savings over buying outright. One of the first (preferred) model has already hit that with pre bids and there are only two in the auction. The second has 15-20 available, but the one that sold in lot 206 went well over my limit for it, so I'm not holding my breath.

Hey if I miss out on these I'm not in a rush to buy one. My time sitting in front of a computer today did locate a $1000 5.0L AWD Mountaineer that might be a viable donor candidate. So if I don;t end up dropping thousands on a excavator today, I might go get that later in the week.
 

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