What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

[Jazzer]

Fluid filmed the underneath of the ‘07 and aired up the spare, just before the rain. One less thing to worry about.

-Jazzer

 

[broncc]

 

[Uncle Gump]

That looks pretty impressive...

 

[sgtsandman]

Gave the 2011 a bath.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

So first step today was replacing the timing chain tensioners on mom’s 02 Explorer with the SOHC, it’s nearly at 180k and surprisingly enough the old tensioners (never been changed) still were difficult to press beyond halfway. Used OEM Motorcraft replacements, but the priming of them proved to be a messy process. I got coated in oil and it got splattered in about a 15’ diameter circle around where we were working, lol.

Then I returned to my Ranger project. Found one of the containers of bolts and managed to find the transfer case bolts and the trans crossmember bolts, but only one transmission mount bolt and no nuts. Should have two sets of bolts for this stuff and can’t find the rest. Prepped the transfer case and cleaned up what bolts I have. Somehow the front output had two broken bolts, but a small miracle happened and I managed to drill and back out the broken pieces with an easy out.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Oh, almost forgot, I seem to have a discrepancy with the motor…

Donor was a 98 Explorer. Since that was a less than ideal candidate, I traded engine wiring harness, computer, injectors, fuel rail, cam sensor, etc for the same stuff from a 00 Explorer to make it ideal. I didn’t get the starting/charging harness from the 00, but since I had the 98 one I didn’t see a real problem.

Well, I seem to be short a plug. The crank sensor. That was part of the engine harness on the 98, but the 00 harness doesn’t have a plug for the crank sensor. I’m assuming the 00 should have a crank sensor but I’m not sure what to do about it. Is it part of the starting/charging harness on the 00? Looked at dad’s 99 and it has a crank sensor that’s part of the engine harness like the 98 was. Everything else seems to match up fine…

 

[ekrampitzjr]

So first step today was replacing the timing chain tensioners on mom’s 02 Explorer with the SOHC, it’s nearly at 180k and surprisingly enough the old tensioners (never been changed) still were difficult to press beyond halfway. Used OEM Motorcraft replacements, but the priming of them proved to be a messy process. I got coated in oil and it got splattered in about a 15’ diameter circle around where we were working, lol.

Then I returned to my Ranger project. Found one of the containers of bolts and managed to find the transfer case bolts and the trans crossmember bolts, but only one transmission mount bolt and no nuts. Should have two sets of bolts for this stuff and can’t find the rest. Prepped the transfer case and cleaned up what bolts I have. Somehow the front output had two broken bolts, but a small miracle happened and I managed to drill and back out the broken pieces with an easy out.

I primed mine before installation using an old prescription pill bottle just a little larger than the tensioner. I filled the bottle most of the way with the synthetic oil I use, placed it on a counter, then put the tensioner in the bottle hex-end up. Pressing on the tensioner several times to compress the plunger got the air out and filled it with oil without mess. Watch the oil level so it doesn't drop below the hole. The tensioner gets stiff and won't compress when it's full.

The tensioner has only one hole and it's small. You shouldn't lose much in handling it before installation.

 

[ekrampitzjr]

Yesterday I paid off the Ranger using a little money I got from selling my mom's old property. Feels good to get rid of that note. Should receive the title in the mail in a week or two.

 

[sgtsandman]

I primed mine before installation using an old prescription pill bottle just a little larger than the tensioner. I filled the bottle most of the way with the synthetic oil I use, placed it on a counter, then put the tensioner in the bottle hex-end up. Pressing on the tensioner several times to compress the plunger got the air out and filled it with oil without mess. Watch the oil level so it doesn't drop below the hole. The tensioner gets stiff and won't compress when it's full.

The tensioner has only one hole and it's small. You shouldn't lose much in handling it before installation.

That method works but can make installation difficult since you have to push harder on the tensioner to install it.

People have found it much easier to install the tensioners dry and use the flooded engine process to prime them before first start. If you press the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor, it cuts off the injectors and prevents the engine from starting while you crank the engine.

 

[James Morse]

Masked off battery/wires and sprayed CRC Terminal Protector on terminals. I believe in it - stops corrosion, keeps terminals clean.

 

[snoranger]

Masked off battery/wires and sprayed CRC Terminal Protector on terminals. I believe in it - stops corrosion, keeps terminals clean.

We spray the terminals on all of the vehicles in our fleet (1700 or so) at every PM. It really helps on the salt trucks.

 

[James Morse]

Did you say 1700? Eh... must be buying it by the caseload.

 

[snoranger]

Did you say 1700? Eh... must be buying it by the caseload.

Our last chemical delivery was 12 pallets. We usually go through a full pallet of brake clean every few months.

 

[James Morse]

Good lord. Must be a logistical nightmare.... as this is no doubt only a tiny fraction of all the maintenance needs.

 

[sgtsandman]

Masked off battery/wires and sprayed CRC Terminal Protector on terminals. I believe in it - stops corrosion, keeps terminals clean.

You’re more meticulous than I am. I just spray the terminals and leave the rest where it lays.