I got it done in 6 hours with my sons help. Slow and methodical out, it went back together quickly once trans was out.
There are 10 bolts in a 2011 manual transmission!! I searched several times and got garbage hits showing me bellhosing diagrams of old models with 8 and a ton of "I think's" which are not helpful.
Duratec has 10 bolts..... for the record and for those owners in the future that search for that answer. TWO behind the starter area and are symmetrical in pairs all the way round the circle. On 2011, a steel bracket holds the forward O2 sensor (pass side way up behind the head) and its bends easy, likely the attachemnt plastic will break upon removal. I was able to one-hand a zip tie to put the braket and O2 connector back together. There IS a handhold hole on the outside of the frame as you on your back to have two hands but I didint find it till I one handed the tie. Additionally, a zip tie loose on RIGID STEEL coolant line behind head will keep the harness clear/raised while seating the trans home. Starter has 3 bolts, two studs plus one forward "bolt". ALL ARE 13mm on bell housing and starter. The upper stud is a double nut to retain the ground strap. Starter need not be removed, just pushed aside and it sits nicely on other car parts out of the way.
Speaking of trans bolts, the passenger side is the painful side (at the top). Back of your hand must stay in contact with the pinch weld of the firewall/cab floor and its SHARP!! My hand was cut probably 30 places when done, I have a big mit and gloves would have made it impossible for me to manipulate tools at these bolts but a smaller hand may fare better.
I tried to remove the trans with the shifter stub installed, it wont come out. Have to put in neutral and remove the stub.
Of course that makes filling the trans easier alter on. I am certain my atf was never changed in 120k.
Bread worked really well for removing pilot bearing. Used a 3/8 bar stock as a punch with elec tape to make a modest tight fit. Popped right out.
Found the clutch disc and pressure plate to be aftermarket, I think Duralast (more like justdoesntLast) as at 120k miles it has seen one OEM, one Duracrap and now mine. WOW. OEM FLywheel was toast. 3 clutches in 120k! This was a fleet truck in SE Missouri for an Orkin shop. The managers truck. Obviously the "managers" were either millennial (go ahead take offense now and flame me) or had neuropathy below the CHIN making them unable to feel a pedal!
My trucks have MATD for loss prevention: Millenial Anti-Theft Device (the clutch pedal) (again take offense, it was intended and encouraged)
As with my 1990, I went with an R/A acquired Perfection SelfAdj kit with a Sachs flywheel.
I am 2 for 2 with the factory bled kits although the master is a PITA to R&R as its protected from rust unlike the 2 bolt early design but rotating the master into the keyway, OY!
Just remember DONT TAKE THE CLIP OFF!!! (slave cylinder that is)
The 2011 doesnt release as nice as the 1990 but its close. The 1990 simply is the nicest clutch I have ever been behind and thats a TON of clutches in 52 years. Its actually pleasurable to shift, like it makes endorphins and dopamine flow when you shift. No lie. The 2011 isnt quite as smooth and is a littel lower to the floor, reminiscent of a 1987 Mustang GT 5.0 I drove for a bit.This is a go to teh carpet for insurance (not a shove but a full stroke), then maybe 2 inch up its all done. So you can preload the pedal if needed from examining the slave under test, maybe half the pedal and then pow, 3/8 inch travel. The 1990 behaves the same but the master is quite different in the kit and it gives maybe another inch of up travel before full grip. The SACHS flywheel may be part of the lack of smooth. Its surface finish was not as smooth as the Perfection brand for the 1990. In time it will wear and polish a bit and have less bite upon initial contact. Matter of fact, im sure that is the deal. Its likely not travel differences between the two, its initial low pressure grip. In a week Ill bet they are identical.
BTW: Clutch wear was so profound on the last clutch that aside from the rivets being gone, the pedal was up at about 1 inch of travel before it dis/re-engaged. If your tall or have long legs, your knee was in your face to activate the clutch. No its nearer the floor as it should be. My son (younger than millennial) thought he has the Scism and im sure contributed to the final days of the clutch but it was FUBAR when I bought the truck and my son simply spiked it in to the end zone.
Funny, I found of the 6 rear main seal bolts that one of htem was bouncing around in the bellhousing. Simply fell out. AXXhole last repairmen on #2 clutch replaced the seal (I think?? or Ford had a bad day!), gooped it nicely (didnt leak) but applied about 20 in/lb torque to all botls. Spec is 89 inch/lb!!! The glue was the ONLY THING keeping the seal set. At least I was able to find it and torque correctly. The 6th bolt survived and not enough damage from bouncing to not be useable.
The fact that 13mm was used for bellhousing, starter, support brackets for fuel lines on tail shaft housing and all crossmember bolts was awesome. One tool for it all.
And by the way, torquing the driveshaft flange bolts is easy (I had no issue on 1990 either), a short extension must be used and raise the torque value 2-3 lbs to correct for the extensions reduction in torque. One bolt at a time, have someone release the ebrake and rotate to the low position and set brake to torque.
This is my experience and all things were done by the book, as opposed to the endless posts I found (on other forums for the most part) with complete heresy.
I wrote this as I know this: had someone written something like this that I could read, it would have shaved at least an hour of questioning and searching off the job. I had prepared as best I could but there were unknowns due to lack of PATENT FACTS. So maybe someone will search for a thread in the future and find this helpful.
Last thing: Put the car on 4 jack stands. as high as possible. I only removed one tire to do work, pass side for light/assistant verbal guidance/inspection. Tires were 4-5 inches off the ground and with a helper running a floor jack (not some 2 ton tiny thing either, one with a big 5 inch plate) the transmission was super easy to press up into position. I did the 1990 with just two stands on front end, really bad idea. Without enough overhead space you cant get your chest betwen the ground and trans to bench press up. Once hung on the input shaft/pressure plate, go to tailshaft and a minor" wiggle and push" when its level (even gap around the bellhousing and engine) and it will almost jump into position. A helper to raise and lower the jack on command is what made it super easy. My 1990 experience was brute force in tight space and even with helper, too much muscle effort was expended to do something the jack should have been more useful for.
Thanks for the input and answers to my questions. As I have found, THE RangerStation forum is the epitome of quality info for Rangers and so far a great community to participate in/with.
Mike in Memphis
Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and 
