Trans cooler lines

[James Morse]

So after I put in the new rad I saw the trans cooler lines leaking slightly and quite sure it's not the trans cooler line fitting it's where the larger fitting goes into the rad. So I tightened them up a little. I think I still get a slight amount of seepage. It's really small, but what I'm doing is running/driving it then checking with my finger or clean paper towel. If I see anything at all then obviously I know what's going on. It's not like drips or runs it's just a little bit.
Here's my options:
1. Run it a while, keep checking it, and see if it goes away. I suspect it will.
2. If it continues to show any seepage, and I don't feel like I can go any tighter, take out the fitting on the rad and put thread tape. I don't like to take apart the other fitting if I don't really have to because right now it's not leaking at those so I'd rather leave well enough alone.

Am I making sense here? Has anyone else come up against this?

 

[sgtsandman]

Hit it with brake cleaner to make sure all the residue is gone and verify if it is still leaking.

If so, then I would look at teflon taping the threads.

 

[James Morse]

OK. Checked it just now and see zero, but I'm going to keep checking and like you say tape the threads, which I considered, but rejected.
My experience with very tiny leaks in threads is usually there is enough fine impurities in the fluid that they get stopped up.
However not worked a lot with trans lines/fluid.
But definitely if it continues I'll address it.

I checked the trans fluid level warm (engine warm, anyway) while running, in P, on the level.
It is above the cross hatch area which if anything is high and that's after losing what was in the rad.
It says I shouldn't add any if it's not below the cross hatch area.
Seems like it has more than enough. Sounds good to go on that (fluid level)?

 

[James Morse]

Put tape on top fitting, killed the leak dead. I think I have to do the bottom one, too.
Takes about 2 seconds.... bottom one a little harder to get to is all.
Thanks.
Edit: taped both, killed leaks. These are the fittings that you get a couple diff sizes you have to put them into the radiator fittings. "Next time" I will remember these aren't compression fittings they are just fittings. It's quite a bit easier to tape them when the rad is out of the vehicle but you can do it after if you f up like me.
I don't think there's enough contaminants in the trans fluid to stop leaks it looks very clear.
Also replaced the left tailgate latch per usual.

 

[97RangerXLT]

yeah keep checking on it for a few weeks. if it is leaking, tighten it just a bit more. rinse, lather, repeat until it quits. if a tightening makes it leak more, you might have another issue lol. it took several days before I got mine to quit seeping. I didn't want to overtighten the fittings so I tightened them just enough to be tight but not cranked down.

AJ

 

[James Morse]

Well, this morning it was totally dry, now I'm warming up to take back Advance lower hose which was wrong. Dayco (RockAuto) has the correct one. I actually didn't put it on because the lower looked new, I think it had been changed not that long ago. Anyway I kept the lower, planning on keeping the truck a while so probably will want it at some point.
So I'll check when I get back.
I didn't tape the entire threads but a good portion that goes into the fitting. I just backed them out enough to get a decent amount of threads covered. Lazy, maybe, but my thinking was why even take a chance of taking it out then cross threading it. Anyway, yes that is good advice, I think the tape has fixed it but I will check it often until I am confident about it. Thanks.
Yeah that was my feeling, before the tape, at some point you are like, ok, that is super tight... don't want to go tighter... then it's time to tape which next time if there is a next time I will sure remember to do that.
Compression fitting of course do not need / should not need thread sealer because that's not where the seal is, it's at the end of the tubing/flare nut.
Yeah both fittings should seal well without overtightening. Just nice and firm.