Swapping +1 wheels

[Speedwagon]

Hey everyone. I'm going to be due for some new tires in the next few months, and I'm considering upsizing a bit. This is on a completely stock 2002 Ranger 4x4 Offroad, and I have the stock 245/75/16 on it currently.

Instead of going up to a 265/75/16(31.6") or a 285/75/16(32.8"), I'm thinking I might try and find some 2006-07 Explorer 17x7.5 wheels, and go with a 275/70/17(32.2") instead. Seems like less chance of rubbing on a stock truck, while being able to plus size a bit. I'd like to junkyard the wheels to save some money, and I do like the look of 2 of the wheels. Plus they are hub-centric when they are factory Ford wheels.

Any insight? Anyone does this particular swap before?

 

[don4331]

@Speedwagon:

I would refer you to:

https://www.wheel-size.com/size/ford/ranger/2002/#trim-iii-facelift-2001-2003-usdm-40i--207 and​

2006 Ford Explorer - Wheel & Tire Sizes, PCD, Offset and Rims specs

Wheel size, PCD, offset, and other specifications such as bolt pattern, thread size (THD), center bore (CB), trim levels for 2006 Ford Explorer. Wheel and tire fitment data. Original equipment and alternative options.

www.wheel-size.com

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The easy part - they both have the same 5 x 4.5" bolt pattern, and 70.5mm centerbore.

But if you look closer, the Explorer rims have avg. 44mm (1-3/4") offset while the Ranger wants 12mm (~1/2"). So, you either need 30mm (~1-1/4") spacers or the wheel (rim & tire) are going to rub (heavily).

It's more/less the same issue I have with the Mustang rims on my Ranger.

 

[sgtsandman]

The other issue is tire diameter without a lift of any kind, unless you have one and didn't mention it. Uncle Gump got 32" tires to fit on his Ranger but I think only just barely. He did change to an aftermarket wheel. So that may be why he could get them to fit (less off set - maybe).

With the factory rims on my 2011, 31" tires fit but only just and rub on the passenger side splash shield at full lock when the wheels are turned to the left. There is also signs of slight rubbing on the bends on the sway bars. Lastly, 31" tires only just fit in spare carrier of 1998 and later Rangers. Anything bigger will have to get put somewhere else.

 

[JoshT]

I can't perfectly answer your question, but I did something similar recently.

I'm lowering my 99 4x4 (AWD now) and putting on smaller street tires. To that end I picked up a set of 18" Explorer wheels and some used 245/60R18. I'm not ready to put them on my truck yet, but dad wanted to try a smaller tire on his 2001 Ranger 4x4 to see how it would affect mileage so we mounted them up.

The tires ain't as tall as you're considering, but according to the site @don4331 posted the wheels use the same offset. IIRC, this was with a 1" spacer in the front and a 1.5" spacer in the rear. We've put some 16" Explorer limited wheel on the trucks since then, but I'll see if I can put my hands on the spacers and verify the size.

 

[JoshT]

The other issue is tire diameter without a lift of any kind, unless you have one and didn't mention it. Uncle Gump got 32" tires to fit on his Ranger but I think only just barely. He did change to an aftermarket wheel. So that may be why he could get them to fit (less off set - maybe).

With the factory rims on my 2011, 31" tires fit but only just and rub on the passenger side splash shield at full lock when the wheels are turned to the left. There is also signs of slight rubbing on the bends on the sway bars. Lastly, 31" tires only just fit in spare carrier of 1998 and later Rangers. Anything bigger will have to get put somewhere else.

Yours is an 2011, so it sits (or sat factory) 1.5-2" lower than @Speedwagon's 2002. At one time I ran 32x11.5 on my 1999 and they fit, without rubbing IIRC, on flat level ground. I ended up doing a little bit of a torsion bar twist and adding a lift shackle to the rear. That was on 15x8 Outlaw II style Pacer wheels, so not factory backspacing on those either. I also wasn;t original owner of my truck, so can't say that it was 100% stock height when I got it, but it seemed to be about the same at dad's 2001 at the time.

 

[sgtsandman]

Yours is an 2011, so it sits (or sat factory) 1.5-2" lower than @Speedwagon's 2002. At one time I ran 32x11.5 on my 1999 and they fit, without rubbing IIRC, on flat level ground. I ended up doing a little bit of a torsion bar twist and adding a lift shackle to the rear. That was on 15x8 Outlaw II style Pacer wheels, so not factory backspacing on those either. I also wasn;t original owner of my truck, so can't say that it was 100% stock height when I got it, but it seemed to be about the same at dad's 2001 at the time.

I had to install 2007 keys and axle blocks on my 2011 in order for the 31s to clear everything thing. The rubbing was too bad otherwise. The rubbing I described is with those keys and axle blocks in place.

 

[JoshT]

I had to install 2007 keys and axle blocks on my 2011 in order for the 31s to clear everything thing. The rubbing was too bad otherwise. The rubbing I described is with those keys and axle blocks in place.

Well then, maybe I had to crank them more than I remember. It has been a long time since I put the 32s on there.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I had 265/75/16's at factory ride height. They were on 8 inch wide with a 4 inch backspace. They cleared but I never really went all full articulation either.

I did end up with Rough Country forged 1 1/2 lift keys and new 1750 lb rear leaf springs with a one inch shackle lift. It sits way better now.

I did buy a one inch body lift and plan on 33's... hopefully before an overlandind trip and the 25th anniversary event in September.

 

[Speedwagon]

I appreciate the responses.

While digging, I did see references to the offset, and realized I might need some spacers or aftermarket wheels to do it properly. But it seems like with the proper offset, slightly larger tires can be run with minimal lifting, as the primary rubbing is from offset issues?

 

[Uncle Gump]

Wheel backspace is certainly a part of the equation. Placing a taller tire on a factory backspace usually ends up with some rub at full lock. Pushing the tire outward... be it with a spacer or using a proper backspace on the wheel typically corrects this. The "standard" aftermarket wheel for these trucks is usually 3.75. Versus the factory 4.5.

Wheel width will also come into play along with tire width. The wider you go... typically the more lift you need to get clearance when you put the suspension through its full range of travel. Luckily these newer trucks (3rd gen up) have bigger wheel openings which makes fitment better then the early trucks.

Remember too... the further you push the wheel out... the harder it is on the wheel bearings. The further you crank the torsion bars up... the harder it is on the ball joints... tie rods and bushings. Not to mention that the suspension still needs to "work". Cranking the torsion to max... you loose all the suspension rebound and they ride like shit.

I set my bars to one inch over max spec. Still rebound left... ride is still pretty good.

 

[Speedwagon]

Thanks. I'm not looking to crank it to max, as I still need to daily the truck. Good to know you can crank it a little and be ok on ride.

 

[don4331]

I appreciate the responses.

While digging, I did see references to the offset, and realized I might need some spacers or aftermarket wheels to do it properly. But it seems like with the proper offset, slightly larger tires can be run with minimal lifting, as the primary rubbing is from offset issues?

In most cases, people are going wider as well as taller.

Who installs 235/75R17s ? But rather they install 265/75R15s (aka 31x10.5R15) to so while increasing diameter ~3", they've also increased width an inch. <In your original example, you've added 1.5" width and 4" diameter.​

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The other thing you want to watch is kingpin inclination angle and its effect on scrub radius. By installing tires a couple inches taller than stock, you reduce any positive scrub radius, possibly making it negative - which impacts how your truck steers.

A wheel with very small scrub radius simply twists when you turn the steering wheel. With a large scrub radius, the rack and pinion must force the wheel to rotate back or forth - which is harder on steering components.

The simple solution is to space the tire out further (which is why aftermarket rims usually have smaller backspacing - they assume you are going install taller tires).

The taller tire also messes with the mechanical trail (but more trail with larger tires is usually a good thing).