swaping from auto to manual

[felgar_1]

i have a 99 3.0 super cab ranger and am thinking of swpping to a manual trans, has anyone done this and what all do i need to do it? i have not been on here in awhile but still have all my rangers

 

[Josh B]

One thing you'll need is the clutch pedal and its supporting hardware

 

[RonD]

Assuming 2WD not 4x4

M5OD-R1(M5R1) is the manual transmission's model number for Rangers 1988 thru 2011, but NOT what it fits
Bell housing on each M5R1 was/is specific to only one Ranger engine model
M5R1 from a 4.0l or 2.3l engine will not fit on a 3.0l engine, or visa versa

So you need an M5R1 from a 2WD 3.0l Ranger or Mazda B3000, 1991 thru 2008(last 3.0l Ranger) will work
Obviously later years should have less miles/use
In 1999 you don't need the speed sensor

Clutch pedal assembly, 1995 thru 2006
Clutch Master
Clutch kit and flywheel

You will need to connect Reverse lights, the 2 wires are there in automatic wiring harness, just need to cut them and splice to reverse light connector on manual trans
There is also a Neutral Safety switch to prevent starting in gear, you can jumper these 2 wires or run them to a clutch switch inside the cab


Your 1999 computer has software to control the automatic, so computer will turn on the CEL(check engine light) unless an automatic is connected
This will not effect driveability, just the CEL will be on all the time

1999 thru 2011 Rangers have PATS(passive anti-theft system) which is in the computer and in 1999 there is also a separate PATS module
Computer and PATS module are "married" at the factory so one won't work without the other
So swapping out computer for manual model is not all that straight forward, but certainly doable

You can't buy new "sets", they were never sold that way, Ford Dealer can "re-marry" if computer or PATS module fails, but they usually won't do that any more
Best bet is to look in wrecking yards for 1999 3.0l Rangers/Mazda B3000 with manual trans, 2wd or 4x4 doesn't matter for this
Buy the computer AND PATS module(above glove box), they are already married and its plug and play
Also get at least 1 PATS key and its ignition cylinder from steering column of same truck
Then you can swap it all out and have a running manual vehicle with CEL not on all the time

 

[stmitch]

I did this swap back in the day. There's no custom work because it's just putting parts in that were intended to be there at the factory, but there are a few things that might not be expected. Here's what I remember:
Obvious hardware:
- Manual trans from a 3.0
- Clutch pedal and master cylinder assembly from any manual Ranger
- Driveshaft from a manual Ranger with similar cab configuration. The manual transmission is shorter in length and needs a longer driveshaft than the autos. (The 4 cyl manuals had smaller U joints than the V6s, so there are multiple driveshafts that might work). Your truck being a supercab means you'd have to find a driveshaft from a supercab that had a manual which may not be super easy.

Computers/electronics:
- Technically you can use your current PCM and delete the auto trans functions with an aftermarket tuner. I've heard that this route works but isn't necessarily seamless. The other option is to get a PCM from a manual 3.0 truck. It would need to be the proper fuel type (so regular fuel or flex fuel depending on your truck). Then you get to to deal with PATs either at a dealer who reprograms it or via an aftermarket tuner that would delete the PATS functionality.

- Make sure that your current truck has a pigtail connector under the dash for a clutch pedal position sensor. Many had one that was capped off even if they had an auto trans originally. Others did not. If you don't have the connector present, then you'd need to swap out the dash harness with the appropriate one for year/cab features/etc.

 

[Josh B]

While looking for driveline parts I think you can also include the Mazda B series ?

 

[felgar_1]

ok. i already have the pedals and master cyl. and i have everything to do away with pats and shut off the auto, i will mainly need the trans and flywheel, i will get a new clutch. i am just tired of going through auto trans, and i like manuals more anyway, i was not sure what years that would work, thanks for that, thanks again

 

[Josh B]

If you are putting the hydraulics together from scratch I'm certain you will find it easier to bleed hanging from an 8 foot hanger and installed in one piece.
Either way and other than that I have found it to be much better to get pre-bled parts

 

[felgar_1]

i got all the hydraulics for my 2000 2.5 truck but never used them. i will try hang it. they are a bare to bleed sometimes

 

[Josh B]

It is not easy getting the bled line through the fender and frame, going in towards the transmission, but still better than having problems bleeding it after it's in there